Front forks

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Waylander, Nov 4, 2020.

  1. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Hi guys,

    I have stripped the forks off my parts bike to rebuild and fit on my VF1000F2, the bike they came off is a VF1000F,

    I have bought all new parts as I thought was correct, but I have found the slider bottom bush in the left hand one is in two parts, the RH one part, the new ones are both one piece,

    The question is can I use the one piece part in the trac side or should I go looking for the two part bush?

    Or is the F different to the F2


    VF1000F2 a work in progress
     
  2. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I think you'll be fine with a one piece. Strongly consider disabling TRAC with the correct springs and fork oil height/weight though.
     
  3. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    And the reason for disabling the trac?
    And secondly how?


    VF1000F2 a work in progress
     
  4. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    With the correct components, it is not needed. And just not good. A valve that restricts the flow of fluid to try and keep the forks from diving and inhibits the suspension from doing it's job? That's what proper springs, oil and damping are for. Honda loved (still loves?) putting WAY too soft springs in their bikes.

    Damping Rod forks are rudimentary, but can be made better.

    Remove the circlips, spring, washer and collar from the damping rod.

    https://racetech.com/download/InstructPDF/IP FEGV S4101V4 Honda V4.pdf
     
  5. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Thanks for the clarification, I have to say the front end feels like it’s full of concrete right now

    I really don’t have the budget for gold valves and springs currently, having been on furlough for 6 months

    So for now I will just rebuild them and look to maybe doing the upgrades next year

    I have new seals dust covers and bushes, new O rings for the track and new wheel bearings

    I have painted the spare front mudguard, hopefully the front will look better.
    [​IMG]


    Not a bad job for a spray can


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  6. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Yeah, that came out nice. Good job.

    If I was in the same boat, I would still disable and use their recommended oil height with a 10wt oil. Sometimes I mix up a custom batch between 7.5 and 10 on a bike that still has TRAC.

    Maybe add 5 to 10mm of preload.
     
  7. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Ok so, jug the ATF and get some thicker fork oil

    And add a spacer to the top of the springs to give preload, is that along with some air pressure


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  8. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    ATF would be fine (Approx 7.5) if you already bought it.

    NO AIR! The proper oil height will take care of that (by reducing the air space).

    In the interest of not changing too many things at once, put the new oil at RT's suggestion. Springs out, forks completely compressed after being "cycled" a few times, measured from the top. Preload can be changed pretty easily later. Measure the length of the steel spacers, then make some from PVC, 5 to 10mm longer and replace.
     
  9. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Right got it,

    I did not intend to remove the stanchions from trees just remove the sliders off the bike and sort of short cut the process

    I can see the lot will have to come off, so I had better order some O rings for the air bridge

    I will update as I go forward


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  10. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Those o-rings are likely re-usable. I would save my money.

    Before removing the forks from the bike, remove the circlip under the dust seal and bottom bolt, and get the lower slider off of the chrome tubes. Much easier when the bike is "holding" them for you. Sometimes the old oil seal can be a bitch.

    Also, remove the bottom bolt before removing the fork caps to keep spring pressure on the assembly.

    Disregard anything you've done already, I may be confused on which bike's forks you are working on.
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2020
  11. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    I have 100’s of o rings already, just never seem to have the right size

    I have found a shop in the U.K. that stocks all JIS size O rings, so if I ever need the rings for the bore liners I know where to get them


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  12. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Currently the bike is still complete

    The stripped forks are off the parts bike, the F, not the F2

    It’s really nice weather here, cold but sunny and dry

    So one more ride tomorrow before I take it to bits, just got a second hand 680kg bike lift for $35, should make life a bit easier


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  13. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Nice. My riding days are limited now. Gonna drop into the lower 40's (F) after these couple storms move thru. :( I can always bundle up, I do have the gear for some occasional rides, but the roads will be cold, damp and covered in leaves anyway.
     
  14. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Ok so I now have some problems
    Stripped the F2 and I have no rebound springs in either bike
    The right hand fork the drain bolt had been stripped and helicoiled the bits still in the inside of the fork
    There is a alloy collar in the bottom of that fork that has been drilled as the thread repair has been done on the bike with it all still assembled
    Mashed collar, no idea what way is correct when refitted as it all just fell out
    [​IMG]

    The bottom of the damper rod has also been attacked with a drill
    [​IMG]

    So please can someone tell me what way up the alloy collar goes, taper end into the fork bottom or flanged end to the bottom

    The manual does not really give a clear picture and it shows springs that I don’t have


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  15. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Ok so with some deductions and a re-read of the Manuel, it would appear I am also an idiot

    The rebound springs are inside the the fork tubes DOH!

    The little mashed alloy oil lock piece goes flange down, as the previous idiot managed to drill it, now as captain 80’s posted somewhere else, the drain bolt must line up with the groove in the damper rod, well that can’t happen with the oil lock taper down as it would be in the way!

    So a little over night thought and it’s solved, now to get it put back together


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
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