Discussion in 'New Riders' started by Hellapet, Aug 6, 2016.
That is correct. It's been awhile since I lock my bike lol
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Now that I think about it, it is real easy not to turn key all the way when you try and lock the handle bars.
Key to long life on a 500 engine is keeping the revs below 9k. Above that, valve float and consequent damage.
Just went for a scoot. The P and the Lock setting are totally different! Good thing I have you guys.
I've heard to shift at 10k but I'm worried about accidental overrevs too. I need my repair manual to arrive so I can start checking things like the fan and the coolant level. Also I think my fork is pretty messed up. There's a good amount of oil film on the barrel. I haven't even looked at the rear shock so who knows how that is. Lots to do!
Keep one thing in mind, your bike is over 30 years old! You don't know how it's been treated, at least I knew with mine, because I've had it from the begining. Back in the early 80s we didn't have the internet & great forums like VFRW. Take good care of it.
K so I went for a ride and got it good and hot (on the H) and looked at the fan while at a red light. It wasn't spinning even though the bike was stationary and hot as F. What do I do? I'm concerned that the bike will overheat if I ever get stuck in traffic. Thanks guys.
Check your fuses, take a test light to both tabs on the fuse if one is bad only one tab will light, if they all are good and light the test light, remove the left fairing, at the radiator above the coolant hose is a sensor with one wire, take that one wire off and ground it and turn on the key, does the fan come on ? Yes Then replace the sensor , if no then find the fan relay, i believe behind the tank under the seat on the right side but i might be wrong. At the relay there is two bigger wires with the key on one should have power and one of the smaller wires should have power, turn off the key get a ohms meter and unplug the sensor wire check from the sensor wire and one of the smaller wires at the relay, if you have continuity between those wires the relay needs to be replaced. Its a very simple system. Let me know what you find.
When I restored my 84 500 I found that the grommets on the valve cover has shrunk over time and would leave a small amount of oil after I have driven it. The fork seals are super easy to replace and you can get a set on E-bay for $5-$10 a set. Yep the tail light stays on if you don't turn the key to the "lock" position. Just bump the steering over a little more it will lock. I did the same thing the first night I went out with friends till I looked and saw I was in the "park" position. CMS in Holland still has a lot of misc. parts for the 500, granted the parts are a little more expensive but when you can't find them anywhere else they usually have the part.
I've ordered seals, $10 on amazon, still waiting on them and the repair manual. Looks like I'll be doing some work sooner than I thought, I went out to the bike today and found a nice puddle of fuel under it, seems to be running from the carb area down the side of the engine. I put the petcock on OFF and left for work, hoping that it's a leak in the supply line. Gonna try to bring some tools home with me and get the tank off, replace the line and be done with that for now. Over the winter I plan on doing some rubber and hose refreshment, replace or reupholster the seat, brake pad upgrade, possibly clean the carbs, check the valves and do a cbr wheel conversion. But before that I have to get the bike in better driver condition, address leaks, and fix the heat issue.
Anyone know where I can find replacement "V-FOUR" graphics for the lower cowl? Mine is scraped to shit...
Update, petcock vent is leaking. couldnt find any rebuild kits that actually say they are for this bike so I ordered one that looked closest on amazon. Hope it fits. I'm also considering doing the DMr petcock full manual conversion if I find the diaphragms are in tact in there. Seems unlikely but I don't want to cut up the parts from a brand new rebuild kit. While I'm in there I ordered some replacement rubber hoses for vacuum and fuel supply cause those were nasty, and a fuel filter that I hope fits as well, and an air filter, and my Oury grips came in the wrong size so I ordered some more of those in 7/8 this time. High-school me would be so jealous. Until I get the rebuild kit I'm gonna replace as many lines as I can and use constant tension clamps, and when I'm satisfied if I don't have the kit by then I'll just route a line off the petcock vent to above the fuel level (somewhere I can see it if it starts leaking) and ride anyway. Was really hoping to go to the Poconos on the bike this weekend for a bachelor party but this has been a nice introduction to what's under the panels. Sorry to ramble if anyone is reading this.
Can anyone tell me whether my tank will leak fuel out of the locked filler if I lay it upside down when I take apart the petcock? Thanks
Mine leaked every witch way i think i need that petcock also lol
If the is good i would think not but depending on how much fuel is in it maybe it might out of the vent ?
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Finally made some progress today. Got some hoses in the mail that weren't perfect, didn't realize til I had the tank off. Anyway, I ended up taking the petcock apart and performing the Dougherty Motorsports vent elimination whatever using the rubber internals that I already had and the old vacuum line, coulda done that a week ago. Still have to plug the vacuum source, it's jimmied right now.
Also got those Oury grips in the mail that I'm so nostalgic about. I like them but they were still wet with rubbing alcohol so the left one was slipping on my ride. Very happy with this regardless.
I went and put a pressure gauge on my rear shock and it just spat shock oil out all over the gauge, so I don't know if that's normal or not but I've already got a replacement in the works for this winter. Can anybody tell my if I should try to inflate it with a bike pump? Or does the oil coming out the filler mean something is obviously wrong? I put the same gauge on my forks and they both made 0 psi. No problem, also planning some changes up front for the winter. It's going to be hard not to tear into this bike when I've got all the parts if the weather is still good.
Another problem I'm having lately is that the ignition switch needs to be wiggled to get it to stay in the ON position. This is dangerous and I'm worried about it. Has anyone had this problem?
Thanks for reading and any help you guys can offer.
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