Hello from Salt Lake City - 2006 Pearl White VFR

Discussion in 'Introductions' started by Jeremy Sell, Jun 5, 2020.

  1. Jeremy Sell

    Jeremy Sell New Member

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    Hello everyone,

    Thanks for the welcome and for all the information this Forum has provided already. You guys are a big reason I bought the bike in the first place.

    Have owned it for a year. 11k miles, changed fluids (coolant, oil, brakes) and gave it some new shoes.
    Now trying to troubleshoot my way through something.

    Was riding and saw the volt meter dropping. At 10.6v the bike started to sputter, the dash lights flashed on/off/on and I coasted into a parking lot. Turns out the 30amp by pass fuse from main harness to positive battery terminal fried.

    I replaced it and the bike wont fire up.
    Checked starter, fuel pump, and every other fuse I can find. Replaced the 30amp fuse by pass with a new section of wiring, and it doesnt start.

    Kill switch is correct position
    Kickstand up
    Bike on center stand
    Key on
    Lights are on/Dash is on
    Fuel pump primes
    Hit start button
    Bike only turns over. Does not fire up.

    Im guessing I need to start testing with a voltmeter but dont know where to start. I'll keep searching the thread.

    (found a picture of what my bike looks like online http://www.2040-motos.com/honda/Interceptor/2006-honda-interceptor-vfr800-100628/)[​IMG]
     
  2. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Member

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    Jeremy, welcome to VFRW. I'm sorry to hear of your recent break-down.

    The drop in voltage makes me worry about the R/R. Have you checked the connection of the R/R to the wireing harness? The connection with the multiple colored wires is the one that tends to melt and cause a big problem. You have not mentioned if you tested the voltage of the battery since the fried fuse has been replaced.

    Any other info since your last post?
     
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  3. Jeremy Sell

    Jeremy Sell New Member

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    Thanks so much for the message. Been a bit busy since I posted but finally got into it this morning to check a few things.

    - Battery voltage is within specs. Brand new battery and bike cranks like normal.
    - Checked spark plugs to confirm they are getting spark to the cylinder.
    - Checked all connections on right side of the bike (inside the rubber boots). There were three rubber boots in total. A total of 5 electrical connections.
    - Check the ECU (2x) connections
    - Confirmed Stator model is SH689FA (5.0 051) and not the updated one from Roadstercycle/Ricks.

    Not sure if next step is just to order the kit from Roadstercycle with the update SH847.
    https://roadstercycle.com/#SH847_SERIES_RR_KITS_ARE_NOW_AVAILABLE_

    Any other things to check before I order a whole new wiring kit to replace mine?

    Thanks so much.
     
  4. Jeremy Sell

    Jeremy Sell New Member

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    Im attaching photos of all the connections in a minute
     
  5. Jeremy Sell

    Jeremy Sell New Member

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    Pics of the right side of the bikes wiring harness.
     

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  6. Jeremy Sell

    Jeremy Sell New Member

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    2nd set of pics from the right side of the bike's wiring harness
     

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  7. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Member

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    I don't see any burnt connections in the photos, which is a good thing. The connection that has three yellow wires is from the stator to your R/R, and the connector that is in the same part of the harness with the two red- two green- one black wires is the connector from the R/R to the loom and battery. These two connectors are where you can test the stator and R/R when you do "the drill". You can find it on post #9 here https://vfrworld.com/threads/how-to-fix-common-regulator-stator-failures.39277/

    Next question, are you getting fuel to and through the injectors? First, can you hear the fuel pump run when you first tutn the key to run (with the kill switch in run)? It should pump until it reaches the required pressure.
     
  8. Jeremy Sell

    Jeremy Sell New Member

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    Here is a picture of the stator I just pulled off. Honestly am searching the internet to find what a bad stator looks like. Not sure what to think of this with all the different colors.
     

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  9. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    That stator is fried my friend. I have seen two of them from my bike. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

    I am not sure what was meant by your comment of the 11K miles. Is that how many miles you have ridden your bike over this past year, or is it the total miles on the bike. If it is not the total on the bike, how many miles are on it?
     
  10. Jeremy Sell

    Jeremy Sell New Member

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    that’s good news to hear.

    to answer your question. Yes. The fuel pump primes when I turn the ignition/kill switch in run.
     
  11. Jeremy Sell

    Jeremy Sell New Member

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    Okay, thanks for the news. No problem that it’s bad news. Any news is good right now. Thank you.

    where can I get a new stator? eBay? Honda? Crashed bike?

    the bike has a total of 11k miles on the odometer.
     
  12. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    11k is low for a failed stator even if it is 14 years old.

    The stator on my 6th Gen burnt up at north of 180,000km and was replaced with an OEM Honda stator from David Silver Spares but also needed to replace the RR (roadstercycle) so quite costly at the time but since then the charging has never been an issue. Hopefully I will get similar life from the new stator.

    OEM stators are one of the parts still available through Honda dealers, but if cash is tight iI suggest you avoid aftermarket which can be of dubious quality, instead take the original stator complete with any melted connectors along to an electrical motor rewinding specialist. Chances are they can rewind it for you for less cost and either match or improve on the windings material used on the original.
     
  13. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    11,000 miles is awfully low mileage for a stator failure though. Are you sure it is not 111,000 miles? The odometer only has five digits so when it passes the 100K point it returns to the beginning. You can check that by switching to KM from Miles on the speedo. If it reads give or take 78600 km that really means 178600 km (remember only five digits) which will be 110,000 miles. If it reads give or take 17,700 km, then your odometer has not flipped and your indicated mileage is fairly accurate. So what does this mean?
    You have a fried stator. I would wonder why it is fried if you only have the 11k miles though.
    I was thinking the same thing. Maybe his odo has turned over and he has 111,000 miles on it. That can be verified by switching over to metrics on his cluster and see how many KM are on it. Then do the math. But he needs to bear in mind that our odometers only go to 99,999 be it kilometers or miles, then it returns to zero.
     
  14. Jeremy Sell

    Jeremy Sell New Member

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    UPDATE:

    I was running through spark, fuel, and compresion last night. Decided to disconnect the PCIII I have installed. Low and behold, the bike starts right up. Never been so happy to have it running.

    Will have to connect the PCIII to a computer and see if something was disabled when the fuse blew in my bike...maybe some kind of safety mechanism.

    Anyway, thank you to everyone for helping me learn more about the bike. Very appreciated.
     
  15. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    Umm - glad you have managed to identify why the bike is not starting - however I do not recall any prior mention of a Power Commander hence we have all been wrongly assuming your bike was stock.

    As for wanting to reinstate it - that's your choice - but there are loads of VFRs running around perfectly happily without one, and as your Power Commander seems to be doing more harm than good, I really would be wary of any further use apart from perhaps a doorstop.
     
  16. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Member

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    Is it running with the original stator? I often wonder if the discoloration of the stators that people post photos of are caused by the oil they are bathing in.
     
  17. RRloves2RRIDE

    RRloves2RRIDE New Member

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    Question: I have a 2007 (Anniv Version) with DynoJet PCIII and am gonna admit my ignorance about the thing. Another subject to study at another time as I desperately need to address electrical issue now. Last night about 1 mi fr home, at stoplight, I happen to glance down and watch my display disappear, then moto stopped. Almost got hit by some chick texting while driving as I was pushing it onto a sidewalk. I had problems starting earlier but seemed to recharge battery on my commute (most the time). Parked it, removed battery, walked home, charged it. Started up at install (new battery BTW). So as I go through the drill, in what way do I need to account for the PCIII? Thanks!
     
  18. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Member

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    I don't think that the PCIII would make any difference when checking the charging system.

    Go to this thread http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthre...mon-regulator-Stator-failures?highlight=drill

    MelloDude's post #9 on said thread is "The Drill". Follow the steps and you will find out if your stator , R/R, or Battery are in good shape or not.
     
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