How to fix common regulator/Stator failures

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by Rubo, Jul 7, 2012.

  1. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    I decided to post everything related to stator and regulator failures and solutions.

    1st.Why such common failures.I believe problem is caused by stators thin low grade wires and the connection plug to regulator.Plug is poorly designed and any moisture,wire heating causes the plug to melt thus shorting the stator.It does not help that old style regulators produce lot of heat which contribute to melting.[​IMG]
    Some soldered these 3 yellow wires directly to regulator but it does not solve the old style regulator which is prone to overheat and fail usually miles away on the road.
    To have a peace of mind here are some solutions.

    1.You want 04 or newer Yamaha R1 regulator.Must be mosfet (new cooler design. numbers must start with FHO11AA FH is new design SH is old design which is stock and runs very hot.Lot of guys installed computer pc fans to help cooling but honestly why not just install more efficient unit which runs cool and you can actually put your hand on it.)
    here is one on ebay to give you an idea
    2005 2006 Yamaha R1 YZFR1 Voltage Regulator Rectifier PN FHO11AA | eBay
    I bought one $80 on ebay.

    You slightly cut the fins part touching the rear fairing to fit.It won't damage regulator since as you can see it has very long fins.
    You want to buy plug in wiring from here.Nice heavy duty
    R/R Connectors
    great wiring straight to battery with a fuse holder plus 2 fuses 1extra $25 nice deal.
    Part A - the Battery Connection
    FH012/010 Connectors with Leads
    Stator connection.I recommend solder direct stator wires and eliminate this weak point.Heat shrink wrap and you'll fine your bike will run better.
    By doing the wiring this way you bypass factory set up which is not designed well.
    more info here
    http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanic...yamaha-r1-regulator-work-5th-gen-vfr-how.html

    Input by Mello Dude
    Just some info --- the latest R1 part number is -- Yamaha part # 1D7-81960-01-00 and can be had over at RonAyers for around $135.

    Or if you want to buy a complete kit the same is a Shindengen FH020AA and can be bought at
    Roadstercycle-Index

    Regulator test
    [video=youtube;r3mqG7f7qu8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3mqG7f7qu8[/video]
    watch it from 10.30sec

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2012
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  2. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    Stator check .I like this video.It covers lot of basics
    [video=youtube;ZRz9U-2i6-4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRz9U-2i6-4[/video]



    Stator Test

    Get a Volt meter, charge the battery, let it rest for a couple of hours then check the voltage should be 12.7V or higher for a fully charged battery in good condition.
    Now disconnect the rectifier/regulator from the alternator, normally 3 yellow wires on a Honda, then set the meter to OHM's (resistance) then measure the resistance between each of the wires on the alternator side plug. It should be less than 1 ohm & then measure each wire to earth, as in the frame of the bike or engine bolt, it should not read. If that checks out, then the alternator is fine.

    To check the output of stator
    1.disconnect the plug going to regulator
    2.Set voltmeter to AC
    3.Attach probes to yellow wires (make sure they don't touch each-other otherwise you will short the stator.I suggest wrapping with electrical tape)
    4.Start the bike
    5. Reading should be 20v or higher depending on RPM. I suggest keep same RPM and test all 3 wires to see if their output is the same.If any wires put out significantly less output then others then you have failed unit.
     
  3. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    Optional info

    When I had to replace my stator I had difficulty opening stator cover.Reason is Honda gasket has glue which really creates strong binding.Someone here suggested using rubber millet on the side cover and it worked.I really sweated on that one.
    Being frugal and imaginative I decided to make my own gasket from cereal box paper.
    Steps.
    1.smear some motor oil on the cover and lay over the paper and lift creating nice outline where to cut.
    2.Cut with blade and use paper punch for holes.
    3.Smear bicycle or any grease lightly on paper both sides before installing.
    4.Tight everything up but not super tight.Check torque settings.

    Notes
    You can buy gasket paper from auto store if cereal paper does not sound right to you.I installed mine with zero leaks.Advantage next time I am there I wont scrape that glue and won't be down 18 dollars which Honda charges for piece of paper.

    for amusement check this old style mechanic making gasket.
    [video=youtube;6rx5hGKt1PY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rx5hGKt1PY[/video]
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2012
  4. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    I found that if you just go to Vegas, burn the shit out of your stator, then drop into Racer's Edge there, you can get an aftermarket brought in from Wisconsin because to OEM's are back ordered for a considerable time.

    89 Stator.jpg

    I have to say again, they looked after me quite well as did my hostess while ai was there.

    But thanks for this post.
     
  5. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    Another video showing Stator Test.
    [video=youtube;SyNYlaoInUE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyNYlaoInUE&feature=related[/video]
    Get a Volt meter, charge the battery, let it rest for a couple of hours then check the voltage should be 12.7V or higher for a fully charged battery in good condition.
    Now disconnect the rectifier/regulator from the alternator, normally 3 yellow wires on a Honda, then set the meter to OHM's (resistance) then measure the resistance between each of the wires on the alternator side plug. It should be less than 1 ohm & then measure each wire to earth, as in the frame of the bike or engine bolt, it should not read. If that checks out, then the alternator is fine.

    Everyone should be easily able to do these tests after watching the vids and reading the steps.Before you take the bike to mechanic perform these tests yourself and possibly save hundreds of dollars.
     
  6. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    Some helpful tips on metripack connections which works with Yamaha R1 regulator
    MP280 Help
    I wished I saw this page before installing mine R1 regulator.I did it without soldering 1st and my output was not good.Realizing my mistake I had to undo my metri connection and pull out the connections and solder them.Be careful soldering.Steps and images are in the link.Below image is an example.
    [​IMG]

    Key here is not overdoing because the connection wont slide into its place in the plug.Worth reading all the steps on the link.
     
  7. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    Rubo - I know you're trying to help people out here, and I think that's a great. But to go and slam someone calling it junk doesn't really help. What are you basing your statements on? Personal experience? Word of mouth? Survey's showing that 7 out of 10 users who installed Ricks failed?

    I'm not affiliated with Ricks or JT from Wiremybike (who sells Ricks products). But I will definitely vouch for JT and his products.

    Sorry that you must of had a bad experience, but I'll disagree with your statement,

    For those reading this thread and contemplating purchasing - They are not junk.
     
  8. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    Based on my personal experience however I did delete that post entirely.Thank you
     
  9. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    Rubo - good idea to throw out there a catch all thread for charging stuff. We can then just copy the thread link for people.
    - That videos in posts 2 & 5 are pretty good.

    ---------------------

    - I'll throw in my stuff that I have been posting - here's the quick test summary for charging. -

    The Drill

    -Looks like you gotta do…. “The Drill.” ----:eek:hwell:----
    Go through all your connectors for burnt leads, dig deep. Crispy wires? Not good. The stator connector is the number one burn it up connector on the bike. - Your gonna have to fix that!

    Then---Go through this starting point quick list. You will need a multimeter too.

    Steps: ---
    - Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed.

    - With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two.

    These are R/R quick checks---
    --- With voltmeter at battery posts get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 12.8 to 13.3v min idle and generally 13.7 to 14.4 ish at revs. (if in the 12s at idle, check at about 1900rpms instead. Its not unusual for the system to be in discharge at idle. )
    - I start to get a bit nervous if I see the volts creeping up to the higher 14s and 15s is a no go.
    -Typically OEM R/R failure for Honda is good volts in the 13s at idle, but will drop to low 13s and even into the 12s at revs. FAIL!
    (Updated June2019) Seemed to be a bit of confusion on whats a pass and whats a fail.)

    - Check stator - These tests are done checking the connector that goes to the stator. (Engine off)
    1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms.

    - 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Connector still apart, engine off)

    - 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings- (Again, connector apart)

    ------>> It is very important to determine in the tests if the stator is a pass or not. If the stator is bad, then chances are the R/R test will fail too. Voltage readings at the battery can be bad while you have a good R/R and a bad stator.... Then also, you can have both bad.. >>>> That is why you need to do the testing in total to get the big picture of the system. (August 2019)

    (Updated Sept 2016)
    There have been a few misinterpretations so I am revising the notes.....

    IF you can find the problem while the bike is shall we say cold, then there is no need to do it hot.
    But if it come out on the stator test to seem to show no clues, then do it hotish, ( before the fan would kick in)

    Hope this helps gang.

    This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart. (Some guys like this chart, my taste, I don’t care for it.)
    http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

    Sept 2016
    Since this was written, the number of guys that have followed this and figured out what to do has got to be in the hundreds.....
    June 2019
    Updated R/R notes.
    August 2019
    Added stator testing and total system note.


    Beers to all ....
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2019
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  10. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    ****Resources for wiring and connectors****

    New connector source - good source - will have most everything you need * (2019)
    http://www.cycleterminal.com

    More wire up stuff and 4 ft strips of heat shrink, lotsa cool stuff, crimp tools including MetriPack
    Del City - Wiring Products and Professional Electrical Supplies


    Very good information on fabrication of wiring and crimping
    https://marinehowto.com/marine-wire-termination/


    Still the best replacement R/R's --- FH020AA and SH847AA
    www.roadstercycle.com (Sept 2021)
    Note on R/R.......a few VFR brothers have had some quirky low RPM voltage issues with the SH847, so I am now at the FH020AA is the better choice.

    Revisions
    August 2019 - Cleaned up and checked links...
    Sept 2021 - more clean up and link check
    August 2022 - Added comment on R/R....
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2022
  11. rangemaster

    rangemaster New Member

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    This needs to be pinned.
    Thank you.
     
  12. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    Update August 2022
    I did go with a custom rewind last November, but as today, I don't know if Gary is still in business.
    A phone call is best, his daughter is helping with communication. -- Birmingham Alabama

    Update July2018

    My understanding is that Gary at custom rewind has MS and is difficult to talk to on the phone.
    Be patient and I hear he still does a good job.. I have a stator in the tool box I am sending to him soon.

    Other stator sources----


    My rides stator is fine, but if I need one, I am tempted to go to this guy - Gary at custom rewind.
    CUSTOMREWIND.COM

    He will do the job any way you want - stock or he'll bump wire gauges up if you want. Well that's one of the achilles heels of the stocker, the 16 guage stator wire could stand to be at least 14 or 12. Prices are very fair too.- I would just ask for extra stator wire length, so while I'm at it I can use a MetriPack connector with it.
    Some on the "other" site have gone that way and it worked out fine.
    --------------------

    Best prices for stock replacement ---- and damn near any OEM part

    Honda Motorcycle Parts
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2022
  13. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    Mello Dude
    Thank you for all your outstanding useful posts.It was my intention to have all regulator/stator related posts in one thread and be it a sticky hopefully
    I really think your links are great resource
     
  14. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    Rubo - back at 'cha, your idea. Thxxzz... But the thread is overdue, we keep repeating the same debug job. Now we can say go here......
     
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  15. Rubo

    Rubo New Member

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    please mods make this a sticky.Lot of people keep asking the same questions.
     
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  16. rjgti

    rjgti New Member

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  17. vfrcapn

    vfrcapn Member

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    Interesting and a lot of good tips.

    That first pic in the OP was a pic of my stator connector taken 12/09. This was the other end, little damage:

    [​IMG]

    I cut that out and spliced in some heavier wires, just twisted and wrapped at the stator end and using crimp connectors at the r/r side. That lasted until April '11, the crimp connectors showed obvious heat damage and the twisted and wrapped side had burnt completely through.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I removed all that and soldered in a splice on the stator side but still used crimp conectors towards the r/r side.

    That lasted until yesterday.

    [​IMG]

    The soldered connections at the other end still looked fine, no heat damage. Cutting out the connectors though left me without enough wire length so I soldered in a new splice at both ends. Bike was running fine today with good voltages.

    I guess I'll know in about 18 months if the soldered connections at both ends solve the issue. I'm planning to add a voltmeter soon to keep an eye on it.
     
  18. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    ^^^^ your experience really confirms that the stator wiring is undersized and you just have to assume that its going to be a maintenance item. --- Its a 30 amp joint, so -- is all the hardware you are using beefy enuff to handle the current?

    Going to a MOSFET or series R/R may help.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2013
  19. vfrcapn

    vfrcapn Member

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    No doubt, I may need to replace some hardware eventually, the bike has 80K on it. The r/r is the newer style Honda unit, in service since about 2003. You can see the stator wires going in to it are browned and have seen a lot of heat. I agree it appears to be a maintenance item, so the volt meter may be a necessity soon.
     
  20. mattrat

    mattrat New Member

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    thanks to every one on here you all have been a great help and put my smile back on my face i have been pretty sad after buying my first bike and not even geting 2 rides in and having more that a few problems in it one of them being the rr and i was needing to know if the COMPLETE MOSFET KIT
    $129.00 + $5.00 SHIP USA rr on http://roadstercycle.com/would work and is it a good kit
    any help will be amazing
    thank every one again
     
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