Help me with my VF500!

okay, I did a bench sync until I hit a snag. I also realize that I had been doing it wrong before (I realized this within the past few months when reading up on more bike things) so I went to work doing it right. Problem is on the 4th carb, the screw is down as tight as it can go and is still raised up higher than the rest of the carbs. It seems to me like this should be something that isn't possible (because all carbs would be out of sync due to the unadjustable #1) So, has anyone else ever ran into a problem like this or have any idea what could be causing it? Is there any way to adjust the carbs other than the regular sync screws?

Thanks for help once again!

 

You're going to have to pull the carbs again.

Turn the rack over and make sure the throttle linkages move freely 100% throughout the range. NOTHING should touch the linkages.

Compare with the other 2 - the 4th carb sync screw mount and where the screw end touches the linkage . Look for bent or twisted metal.

 

carbs never got close to back on cause I know it isn't right! and i'll take a look, just got my gas tank sealer kit so i'll have a few days to play with the carbs while that is doing it's thing...

 

well, turns out that the 4th carb did have a slight bend in the metal at the screw, it bent back just fine, but... last night when I was trying to tighten it down, I stripped the screw out while trying to tighten it more than it was willing to go (because of the screw around it i'm assuming. So now i'm trying to find a screw to replace it, any idea on where to find one? Not in a major rush because the gas tank sealer will take at least 5 days to get done. The main thing i'm hoping is that I didn't strip out the side that connects to the carb valve (not sure if it is an apature, or valve, or diaphram, or what you call it)

If I did I have 2 options that I can think of, drill it out slightly bigger, and pick up a screw that will fit, or replace it with a used one... What purpose does the top spring that goes around the screw serve?

 

I believe it's to put tension on the screw so it doesn't unscrew due to vibration - sort of like a lockwasher for a nut.

 

Does anyone have some trash carbs that I could buy a couple pieces from? I need the black metal piece that connects to the circle (aperture thing) it is also the part that the carb sync screw goes through to push the aperture to the correct setting.

I took mine out today and it wasn't much of a challenge. If someone has extra carbs and would be willing to get that, just shoot me a price!

 

Ok... so I got everything in the carbs straightened out, the gas tank sealed with KBS coating, and everything ready to go...

I go to start the bike and it does nothing, I can't remember at this point whether the clutch needs to be pulled to start it or not, so I pull it in and all I get is a click. I try putting the bike in gear and spinning the back tire, but nothing... Is my engine seized?

When I put the bike in the garage I rode it around the house, never let it fully warm up, I blead the clutch and break lines, ran it for a min or 2 to make sure the clutch was working better, which it was, then I shut it off and it has been sitting on the center stand for about a week.

What would cause the engine to no turn?? Anything that can be done to try to help it?

 

starter mybe???

 

That is what I first thought, but the engine being seized when in gear and trying to move the wheel would suggest otherwise...

 

If you put a bike in gear and try to move the rear wheel it won't move. I doubt you're strong enough to rotate a wheel, transmission and engine in first gear.

That's why you can park a bike in gear on a 45 degree hill and it won't move.

If you put it in 6th and try the gear ratio will be in your favor, but even then I don't think you'd be able to do it.

 

I hope your right, I had the bike in 5th or 6th, and tried clutching, rolling forward a few feet and letting the clutch out, the back tire just skidded, i'm going to check all of the fuses for the starter and go from there I guess...

 

You could try a traditional bump start. It's a lot easier with two friends to push you while you sit in the saddle and release the clutch at about 10MPh and 2nd or third gear (1st results in a little too much resistance, in my experience). Otherwise you're running along side with the clutch pulled then jumping on and letting the clutch go, not much fun, but you're lucky if you can push to a top of a hill and then try.

My FZ1 makes 150Hp at the crank and only 130 of that gets to the rear wheel, needless to say a lot of energy is wasted along the drive train... it would require a LOT of effort to rotate the rear wheel with the transmission engaged.

The easy way to tell if the motor is seized is to take the stator cover off and rotate the crank via the nut that's there specifically for that purpose (well, more for getting the crank in the correct part of rotation for checking certain things). Just make sure you rotate in the correct direction.

 

Okay, i got the bike going, had a friend push me and the engine loosened up a bit, the battery has problems starting it without a little help...

Once it is running It still won't rev over around 6000 RPM's. Is there something electronically that would cause this? Everything in the engine has been replaced, carbs redone, and the ignition coils were also replaced.

What could cause this problem?

 

Cams put in 180 degrees out of phase will do it. But most likely it is carb/fuel related...jets not getting enough fuel at high rpms...

 

try putting it in second gear noob.....:thumbsup:

 

engine loosened up a bit??:crazy: you check timing advance? clogged fuel lines? slide sticking in carb??slick50 fitting loose? everything in engine has been replaced holy shit how much did that cost you?? becuase crank, bearings, trans,doglegs, piston, rods, cams, springs, valves,gears, etc wow.. should need a break in period for sure...maybe your cams are off a degree or 5?? misfire, backfire,-.- no hi revs timing sounds a little off...:thumbsup: but i would get 3 people to push me and that should cure the problem..:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin: let us know how it went i would certainly like to hear the outcome of this...:thumbsup:good luck and did you use slick50 during break-in it is highly recommended on vfrworld..

 

But of course it doesn't work that way. It's pretty easy to bump start an in line 4, I'm sure you could do it by yourself. Seriously.

 

tjwor,
it sounds like you didn't hook the vacuum line to the fuel petcock. on the left side rear cylinder head there is a little brass nipple by the carb. Connect that to the middle nipple on the petcock.

 

AH, nipples to the resue!!

 

That may just be the problem, I know that the vacuum line is not hooked to anything, just plugged with a screw, and i'm fairly sure that it was left unhooked and unplugged previously when I had the bike.

I'll give it a try when I get off work tomorrow and see if I get any better results!