How to fix common regulator/Stator failures

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by Rubo, Jul 7, 2012.

  1. RONNIE LAWSON

    RONNIE LAWSON New Member

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    Will do, and I did check the charging output. It reads 18.3vdc as the service manual says it should charge at 4000rpms. But, again that's at idle.
     
  2. RONNIE LAWSON

    RONNIE LAWSON New Member

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    Walk me through that hook up so I don't mess anything up playa.
     
  3. jstehman

    jstehman New Member

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    3 wires from stator -> r/r in
    R/r output negative to negative batt terminal
    R/r output positive to 30a fuse -> Pos batt terminal

    Shindengen mosfet super kit from roadstercycle.com.. can't say enough good things


    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
     
  4. RONNIE LAWSON

    RONNIE LAWSON New Member

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  5. RONNIE LAWSON

    RONNIE LAWSON New Member

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    So, cut the pig tail off right?
     
  6. RONNIE LAWSON

    RONNIE LAWSON New Member

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    This is what I'm looking at. 2 pig tail
     

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  7. jstehman

    jstehman New Member

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    I'm not too familiar with the 98, but I only see 2 wires coming from the stator.

    And that regulator looks dated. Where did it come from?

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
     
  8. RONNIE LAWSON

    RONNIE LAWSON New Member

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  9. jstehman

    jstehman New Member

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    Per "the drill":

    Continuity test for stator. Should have minimal resistance between leads. If any stator lead grounds, then the stator is bad.

    Start bike.

    Unplug stator connector.

    Stator output tests at AC volts 18-20ish at 1200 rpm idle across pairs of wires A-B, A-C, and B-C.

    AC volts 50-60ish at 5000 rpm test pairs of stator wires.




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  10. jstehman

    jstehman New Member

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    Regulator test:
    12.6v + at idle, not more than 15v at 5000rpm

    Test at battery terminals.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
     
  11. jstehman

    jstehman New Member

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    Post #9

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
     
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  12. squirrelman#1

    squirrelman#1 New Member

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    Oh, yeah !
     
  13. RONNIE LAWSON

    RONNIE LAWSON New Member

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    HAS ANYONE DONE A VIDEO ON THIS ISSUE YET WITH A FIX OR CUTTING THE WIRES LIKE YOU STATED BEFORE. WITH A PIC OR VIDEO. CAUSE THAT WOULD HELP ALOT. NOT JUST ME, BUT ANYONE ELSE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE. I SEE NOTHING ON YOUTUBE.
     
  14. RONNIE LAWSON

    RONNIE LAWSON New Member

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    ANY CLEARER PICS? I NEED TO DO THE SAME TO MINE. IS YOURS STILL CHARGING?
     
  15. jstehman

    jstehman New Member

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    That connector in the pic is yellowed from heat because of resistance across the connection.


    I just fixed my 82 magna with a failing voltage regulator.

    I purchased a newer, Mosfet circuit Shindengen FH012aa regulator. And connectors from Jack at roadstercycle.com

    Wired my 3 wires from the stator to the 3 wires on the regulator.

    Run the negative from the regulator output to the negative terminal in the battery, and a positive 30amp fused lead to the battery positive.

    Totally bypassing the factory wiring, the connector to the factory harness should be taped over or removed and sealed to prevent unwanted contact.

    If you look at the green and red wires from the output of your factory regulator, the output is just split between pairs of wires Green and Red. Green is Honda ground

    That would update the r/r part of the system.

    **Do you have stats from the stator output to confirm your stator is working correctly? And your battery is charging?**



    Hope it's ok to provide YouTube links from a business
    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2019
  16. RONNIE LAWSON

    RONNIE LAWSON New Member

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    So, both r/w wires are + and both green are ground?
     

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  17. jstehman

    jstehman New Member

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    I would verify with the schematic but greens are definitely ground.

    I highly suggest replacing that r/r with the Shindengen unit and testing your stator output


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  18. faran

    faran New Member

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    I recently replaced R/R on 4th Gen due to overcharging with a R/R from R1, directly running wires to the battery terminal(similar to VFRness set up).

    Highly recommend that upgrade. Let me know and can share pictures.

    Knocking on wood, so far voltmeter is always between 14.2-14.3V
     
  19. vfrcapn

    vfrcapn Member

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    That was 7 years ago and about 50K miles, haven't had a problem since eliminating the connectors and just splicing the wires together.
     
  20. proper

    proper New Member

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    2006 with 47K miles - here's an original roasty-toasty Stator that just got replaced. Burn baby burn.... 20200115_150951.jpg
     
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