How to fix common regulator/Stator failures

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by Rubo, Jul 7, 2012.

  1. RRloves2RRIDE

    RRloves2RRIDE Insider

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    I am on a 2007 at about the same mileage. Wouldn't start the other night on a 2 year old battery. I ride 5 - 6 days a week 50 miles a day RT at freeway (or as fast as I can) speeds. I am pretty new at wrenching on these so spent some hours with the physics book, service manual, this forum and related links. I get what's happening. 11.88V on my new battery today - not good. But I can't get the stator connector unplugged! So if I eventually do get it unplugged, I can start the drill. Ominous portent is the plastic shielding for this group has a burnt spot.
     
  2. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    Chances are the connector is burnt up, and thats not helping. You do need to do a stator test to find out if its ok, although for some reason, the '06s and '07s had a high stator fall out. - The full test is in order. 11.88 on a new battery is trouble.
     
  3. RRloves2RRIDE

    RRloves2RRIDE Insider

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    Thank you. After a cleanup of the connection, 3 yellow wires were consistently in 0.5 ohm resistance. Checking ground tomorrow. May order parts tomorrow anyway.
     
  4. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    If the connector is a pain - rather than testing the stator I would simply unbolt (carefully) the stator cover and have a look inside - it will only take a few minutes.

    If it looks Ok then reinstate the cover if necessary replace the gasket. If you are greeted by the smell of burnt or fried electrical windings you need a new stator anyway which will come with a new connector. However if the stator connector is melted I would eliminate it entirely and simply solder and heat shrink that connection. Don't get stressed over which of the three yellow wires goes where on the RR - they are all the same. But before permanent soldering the connections, do temporary connections with insulation tape to test the RR is working. If your RR tests OK you are lucky - if not get a better Shindengen one from Roadstercycle.com


    SkiMad
     
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  5. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    Just my opinion, but replacing the stock R/R with a mofset will take the heat off a stator... stator if testing OK and no coils "black" should be OK... natural to heat up in certain areas because they are cooled by oil splash not always uniform, e.g., CBF1000 has a poorer oil cooling than most. Smaller stator capacities and they tend to work harder to keep up to charging needs/loads if you have a lot of accessories, i.e., not a lot of reserve power, uses more battery reserve, which in turn needs more recharging as you ride.
     
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  6. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    RED PLUG

    just repeating for anyone who missed earlier:

    the red plug on top of starter relay needs inspection for melting and burning as any added resistance there lowers charging voltage and 's a common problem.

    Picture1-12-2020 036.jpg

    Picture1-12-2020 144.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2020
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  7. RRloves2RRIDE

    RRloves2RRIDE Insider

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    And the bent wires don't help. My 30A main fuse housing was burned but fuse did not blow. Not quite melted but thought burned would have met threshold to blow it. I did not think I needed that wire as it fed fr RR, which I just replaced w Mosfet SH847 superkit w circuit breaker and rewound stator fr Custom Rewind) So I cut out RW wire w 30A fuse. Now I don't get an FI light when I turn the key and there's a sad weird noise coming fr battery area. Display has oil and engine lights flickering. Pos terminal has lead to ignition and red wire from RR. Neg term has black wire from RR and a ground. I am new at electrical and this wiring seems like a labyrinth. Need some serious help.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2020 at 8:41 AM
  8. NorthernFirepower

    NorthernFirepower New Member

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    Hello all, did a ElectoSport Stator and R/R replacement a few years back and when cleaning my chain I noticed a harness zip tie broken and hanging...upon inspection it was clear that it was melted prior to breaking. *sigh*

    After very short digging, it was clear that the Stator to R/R connection was toasted along with 1" of wire insulation going both ways. After testing out the R/R and Stator, I've decided to solder the wiring in place of any connectors.

    When cutting and stripping the stator wiring, it was very obvious that it was coated in 10w-40 engine oil! Anyone else experience this? Wondering if the wicking oil is causing the connections to actually burn up with the high heat it produces? More importantly, worried that my new soldered connections will burn up in time due to heat + oil??
     
  9. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    It may have been dielectric grease from a previous treatment of the connectors, or it could be a little seepage from valve cover half-moons, or even travelling along from the stator grommet to the engine cover? All you can do is look..... you can clean it off and spray on some aerosol foot powder and the source most likely will be revealed.
     
  10. NorthernFirepower

    NorthernFirepower New Member

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    Definitely engine oil, I'm pretty confident that it's wicking from oil on the stator itself. Reading from the Aprilia forum, they have similar issues and solve it by ensuring the wiring coming out of the stator is as vertical as possible. I'll look at it tonight and see if I can do similar, plan to also run the bike and test the wire temp along the wring compared to the new soldered joint. Time will
     
  11. rhoderage

    rhoderage New Member

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    If oil is coming out of the stator, is the black rubber seal piece that the wiring enters/exits the stator from installed properly in its groove/channel? It shouldn't let any oil out...
     
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