How to fix common regulator/Stator failures

Pre 06 bikes have major connector issues. This can lead to a shorted connector then burnt up stator. But after 06 the connector issue seems to be gone. As for stator wire guage, face it at 500w max output you are not getting heavy guage wire. The newer stators run quite a bit cooler than the older ones. Since the wire is within a .0001 (yes that is correct) in thickenss, I would say its not wire size that is the difference. Maybe less poles in series and more in parallel? Since series poles add voltage and parallel poles add current capacity this is most likely.
The r/r on post 06 models is a mosfet output. Same part number, just superseded the old one.

On my 07 I have yet to see the need for vfrness or other wire replacement, I get the expected corrosion on the connectors and I clean these twice a year, once before riding season and again during. A little dielectric grease goes a long way.
Another note that some dismiss is that a battery can not be checked with a volt/ohm meter and that battery checker mechanics use is most often misused and results in a bad battery being claimed good. Lead acid batteries have a life. 3yrs max, now how long has it sat in the store?
This bikes electrical system was designed around 35 amps max, 30 when charging and 25 when battery is fully charged. Adding farkles reduces the ability to charge the battery and adds considerable time to the charging cycle. This leads to the r/r getting too hot from heat soak. It can not dissipate the extra heat if it is always running at max output. Reducing power requirements can be just as bad, the battery can only take so much charging, for every 100mA you save by changing to LED lamps must go somewhere. Usually into the battery, but once its charged the r/r starts dumping the extra power as heat.

In short take care of the electrical system and your problems with it will be slim. Beware of how farkles are added, and if you add a farkle that takes 2A all the time (heated grips, gloves, socks) then consider changing a couple bulbs to LED to allow your electrical balance to remain close to the same. Think of it as a teeter-totter, there is a happy medium and tats where you want to stay.

Otherwise, good post guys! Lots of good info, glad this one was put up. Now get it stickied to the mechanics garage

 

Alright guys, so I did the drill today.

Please see pictures below and all results.

1-Charged battery overnight, checked voltage and it's showing 12.4-12.6V.

2-At idle and 4500-5500 rpm it shows 14.4-14.5V

3- Checked resistance for connector coming from the stator side:

A-B B-C A-C
2.4 2.1/2.2 2.4 all @200 resistance mode
0.01 0.01 0.01 all@200K resistance mode

4- One terminal grounded with bike frame and other touching connector A,B and C respectively. It shows '1' and nothing else.

5-Fired bike up and took voltage at ACV(200)

A-B B-C A-C
24.1-24.5V 24.1-24.6V 24.1.24.6V all @idling
72V 72.5V 72.8V all@5500rpm

Wires coming from R/R side look thicker compared to coming from stator, I felt for a sec that yellow wires coming from stator were a bit warm.

See pictures and advise if that's the right connector on which I took readings(Coming from stator). Also, does this R/R look stock or no?

Does all readings and measurements look normal?

Please see my original thread with picts here:

http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthre...tenance-Related-Questions?p=460584#post460584

 

JMO but that voltage on a battery that's just been charged looks a bit low. Unless you discharged the surface charge, I would think it should be close to, or over 13 V. 12.4 V for a freshly charged battery just seems a bit low.

 

Thanks for your input. What about the rest?

I think, battery is prolly weak and might need to be replaced next riding season.

 

I'm with FJ on this one Faran, the numbers on the battery look weak and all your other readings look good. I just went through this same issue a few weeks back, went to start the bike and it was a weak start and then the dash went blank and reset everything. Charged the battery went through 'the drill' and everything checked out. A couple of days later, I double check the battery and sure enough, it was low again, 12.4v. Replaced the battery and everythig looks good now.

 

Absolutely agree with everyone: everything else looks good.

 

He He

I've just spotted this parallel thread. I am glad to see you are getting the same answer coming from several sources.


SkiMad

 

Thanks for reply, have sorted now, thanks

 

vfr rectifyer

Thanks for reply, have sorted now, thanks

 

Always appreciate your guidance and help OOTV, online as well as offline

Also, thanks a ton for this helpful thread and posting all this useful information, really appreciate it.

Should I replace the battery ASAP or can wait till next riding season? Any suggestion/advice for new battery? Good and cheap one is always my preference

 

Depends on how much you plan on riding until you replace the battery. I usually head down to Wally-World and pick up a battery from them, although I have hit the local battery discount place in town too.

 

Mind sharing what's the model number for it? How much should I be expecting to pay?

I always like Walmart

 

The model # I got was ES12BS and it cost $59.97 + tax.

I bought it April of 2013.

 

One last thing guys, should I upgrade stator wires/stator connector going into R/R harness or no?

R/R harness recall has already been done, so it's a bigger/solid connector.

 

I simply eliminate the connector between the stator/regulator:
any bit of resistance in that connector turns it into a heating element.





For the DC connector from the regulator I simply make sure the connectors are clean and squirt some ox-gard into the plug slots. Be mindful with the amount, you don't want a mess all over the stuff is conductive.

http://www.gardnerbender.com/en/ox-100b

 

Another one


OK here is another one. It's a 96, 36000 miles, I've owned it 9 months. Battery suddenly went dead 2 weeks ago and was replaced so I could ride the rest of the day. Last week it went dead in the ride home from a 8 hour ride, looked down speedo quit working and then it just quit. I am getting ready to do the drill but have a few questions. The R/R is a cbr600 do the wire goin into it look like a VFRness? The wire going to the battery, is it replaceable? And what are thoughts anout the yellow tape around the yellow wires coming from the stator?
Thanks in advance.
BOIKE

 

Do you have a VFRness fitted?

 

Well that's my first question? I am not sure how to tell and I was hoping someone could tell me by looking at the wires? Is there any other way to tell?

 

Doesn't look like you have the VFRness.

The red plug in the last picture is obviously toast.

Me? I'd remove all that electrical tape on every connection because I'd want to know what it looked like under there. I'd snip all yellow wires and solder back together (see the post directly above yours). My soldering work isn't quite as pretty as that, but with a little practice and some patience, I got it done more than sufficiently.