How-To: Gen-8 Tail Tidy Installation Guide

Tail-tidy Installation Guide

Step 1:
Using an Allen key, loosen & remove the bolt from each side as shown in the red circle in Picture 1.


Picture 1: Attachment bolt location / Mudguard side piece (Aus/NZ models)


Picture 2: Threaded plate & plastic surround

Important: When turning the Allen key, check the threaded plate shown in Picture 2;- if you see it rotating more than a few degrees, do not force the Allen key or you will warp the plastic surround that the plate sits in, and make removal much more difficult. Some owners have reported that this bolt/threaded plate combination has been sealed with Loctite. If you suspect that to be the case, I recommend using a focused heat source (such as a butane jet-burner) for 3-4 seconds to loosen the Loctite, as shown in Picture 3. Do so sparingly to avoid melting the surrounding plastic.


Picture 3: Apply focused heat to locking plate & bolt


Picture 4: Vertical bolt location

Once you have removed the bolt and threaded plate from both sides, pop them in a safe place for later and move on to Step 2.

Step 1A (Aus/NZ models only):
This step applies to VFRs with the extra mudguard side pieces (see yellow circle in Picture 1), which includes Australian and New Zealand models. As well as the side bolts, you will need to unscrew the vertical bolts (see yellow circle in Picture 4). You should now be able to remove the mudguard side pieces completely. Keep all your parts as your new tail-tidy will work with these parts if you wish to reinstall them.

Step 2:
Using a small 10mm socket tool, loosen and remove the hex-nut holding the factory reflector in place. The nut is found on the inside of the mudguard, facing the tyre. Once the nut is removed, you will be able to detach the reflector (See Picture 5).


Picture 5: Remove factory reflector


Picture 6: Remove washer

Remove the washer found behind the reflector as well (see Picture 6). You should now be able to remove the factory fender/numberplate mount completely (see Picture 7). Detach your numberplate from the mounting, and keep the fastenings used with your numberplate.


Picture 7: Remove fender & numberplate mount
 
Step 3:
Not all numberplates have mounting holes drilled in the same place. For this reason, your tail tidy has not been pre-drilled, in order to cater to the maximum range of different numberplates (see Picture 8). To complete this next step, you will need a drill, and a metal-use drill bit of a size that matches your numberplate bolts.


Picture 8: Where you will need to drill numberplate holes once marked

First, place your numberplate over your tail-tidy so that the top edge of your plate aligns with the widest part of the tail tidy. Only the reflector tab should be visible at this point. Use a pencil or paint-pen to mark where the existing holes in your numberplate correspond to the arms of the tail-tidy (see Picture 9).


Picture 9: Marking your numberplate holes


Picture 10: Prevent drill from wandering by making indentation

Once you have marked where you want to drill holes for your numberplate fasteners, use a punch or a nail to leave an indentation (see Picture 10). This will prevent your drill bit from wandering as you start making your holes. Take due care and safety measures when drilling.
 
Step 4:
Once your tail-tidy has been prepared, check its’ fitment to your bike. Start by sliding the attachment tabs inside the factory mount at roughly a 45 degree angle (see Picture 11), then rotate the tail-tidy upward so that the reflector tab sits flush with the mount (see Picture 12).


Picture 11: Start at a 45° angle


Picture 12: Rotate until flush

Now gently slide the tail tidy all the way up so that the reflector tab lines up with the numberplate light housing (see Picture 13). It should be a snug fit.


Picture 13: Correctly located tail-tidy

Replace the factory side bolts and threaded plates that you kept earlier. If you have the extra mudguard pieces from Step 1A, decide if you wish to re-install them, and remember to replace the vertical bolts (from Picture 4) for those pieces as well. Check that everything fits correctly before tightening.

Step 5:
Attach your numberplate to the tail-tidy using the same fasteners/bolts used with the factory fender.

Help & Support:
For feedback, help, and queries, contact nz.cam@hotmail.com

 

Nice one nzcam. When will you be taking payment??

 

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The production articles came back from the laser-cutters last Friday, and on the weekend I did all the welding, riveting, and tolerance testing. Next step is the powdercoating, and then they'll be ready to send.



For riders in the US, the exchange rate between USD and Aussie Dollar really favours the US at the moment, so if you want to organise payment now via PayPal, that's fine. I'll mark you as paid and send your tail-tidy the moment they're ready (just depends on how much of a backlog my powdercoat contact has).

Cheers - Cam

 

Cam here is a couple before and after pics of my install. Thanks for getting them to me so quick. Fit and finish is fantastic!

 

Are these still available?

 

Sure are, should be ready to send any day now.

 

Price and PayPal info please

 

Ok, I have read the instructions. But like a dumbass I stripped both side on the plastic. I can not seem to get anything up there to help remove the bolt. Plyers, metal plates, screwdrivers. What the hell. I am about to break out the oscillating tool and cut the bitch off. Any advise or am I the only one that is inept on working with plastic bullshit?

 

Hi Bubba,

Refer back to Picture 3 in the above instructions;- it sounds like you're having the same issue I initially had which turned out to be due to Loctite being used on the thread, and the soft plastic surround.

What I did was to heat up the thread using a butane micro-jet, which melts the Loctite. Because there's no room to get a normal set of pliers in to stop the plate from turning once the plastic is smooshed, the way I solved that was slide 2 pieces of thin, hard metal above and below the plate edge. I fashioned the metal from a ruler which gave me something thin but relatively firm and non-brittle (I snapped a steel mini-file first try), and gave the plate something to push against and be prevented from turning with the bolt.

Hope this helps.

 

Great looking product and man those directions!!!