Jim's $400.00 1986 VF500F

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Jim McCulloch, Jun 25, 2019.

  1. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    Thanks! I appreciate that bit of knowledge. I don't want squeeze out on the back side as it will look like crap forever. It will be hard to clean it up afterwards as the metal plate is in the way. Not sure what to call that metal backing plate.
     
  2. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    I'm sure somebody else will chime in with some tips from a more recent install, but it's going to depend on the snugness of fit OD of new lens to housing. Really you don't want any RTV on the back wall but do want the OD sealed... if no room for RTV on the OD, once the lens is in you can smear on some (black) RTV around the OD since it is thinner and should recess in, you fillet in a small bead on the outside. You have plenty of time to spread/clean up the RTV since it has a long working time. Once you get it looking good, leave it.
     
  3. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    When you say grey RTV, can Hondabond be used?
     
  4. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    I use Permatex usually, no experience with Hondabond, but I don't see why not. Yamabond is orange, I've used that. You pick gray or black, whatever you think will look OK when you're done. And remember, if you mess up, just remove the lens and start all over.....
     
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  5. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    I have used the syringe/needle method for getting the RTV in the groove without making a mess. just loaded up the syringe with clear RTV. Using the clear and the syringe seemed to to a clean job with minimal mess.
     
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  6. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    Is alcohol a solvent for RTV? I was wondering how you get it out of the syringe?
     
  7. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    I would say get a disposable syringe.
     
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  8. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    Sight glasses...I finally got the clutch M/C sanded and painted and installed the new sight glass.

    The sight glass was provided by Joe at V4 Dreams. Great guy! http://v4dreams.com

    IMG_0036.JPG

    I used this sealant on the sight glass. So far it works....no leaks.

    IMG_0039.JPG
     
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  9. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    Starting to prep the tank for painting. I suck at painting so I have no place to go but UP!

    IMG_0089.JPG

    Can't tell if this is a 84 or 85 Tank, a bit of archeology peeking through at the bottom...

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  10. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    good luck, prep is everything...
     
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  11. straycat

    straycat New Member

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    Hi Jim, just one wee bit of advice if I may. If that is red glazing /spot putty from a tube that requires no extra hardener, it is very easy to use (apply and sand) for those small blemishes etc, however Id only suggest that you give it a good week or more after you re prime it before you apply your final paint.

    Reason being that self catalized red spot putty has a tendency to shrink and sink, even in shallow blemishes. Its not unusual to see sunken spots in your paint weeks after you paint it and you'll be PO'd.

    You may find that after you prime it and leave it a week you need to putty it again to rebuild it backup. sometimes using 2 shades of primer (red layer & gray layer). helps to see the high and low spots.

    I learned this the hard way and my painter gave me that advice a few years ago. He tries to avoid that product all together in favour of professional grade surface glazing putty (that uses a cream hardener). He gives me shit every time I show up having used it, so I have started to switch over too, but the pro stuff is harder to sand (which I guess makes sense).

    Interestingly the pro grade stuff is no more expensive, and available at your local auto body supply shop.

    Dont get me wrong, im not saying "do not use it" im just suggesting to be aware of the best way to deal with its short comings. It would be frustrating if you spend all that prep time and get a decent paint job on it to see it sink in the weeks that follow.

    Just my 2 cents.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2021
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  12. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    Hey Stray!

    That is very timely and good advice. I always thought there was something weird about that 3M putty and now I know. I was sanding last night and noticed it most certainly did sink! I have used this putty for years and it did the same thing, I just thought I was using it wrong. Nope, it is just crap it turns out.

    I am going to finish off this tank and then throw this 3M putty stuff out. Most of the dips are gone as they were not very deep to begin with.

    Thanks again brother!
     
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  13. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    Been a rough week or so here in Texas, have not had much chance to do anything but house repairs.

    I did manage to get the tank primered for the impending paint job. I hope this goes well, but I have a back up plan if not.

    I drained the fuel out of the carbs already, not planning on riding for a month or so.

    IMG_0101.JPG
     
  14. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    Need some help...I have fixed all the dents and dings and have got the tank about ready to paint. I am considering sending it to the lady who paints my cars as she has done a great job in the past and is cheap.

    Question:

    I am putting the stripes temporarily (provided by @straycat thanks again!) to figure out where the split line is for the top and bottom colors.

    My questions is how do you place the stickers once you are painted? I remember doing this a million years ago on a Firebird TA (the big screaming chicken on the hood, you had to be there LOL) and you sprayed soapy solution on the metal to let the sticker slide around until you got it set right. IS this what you do on these Honda stickers?

    Thanks in advance for any advice on this!

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  15. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I'm pretty sure I would employ that method on the stripe. Getting it perfect on the first "application" would be near impossible. Gonna have to be able to slide around a bit to get it symmetrical and in line.
     
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  16. straycat

    straycat New Member

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    Yes, put them on wet.

    Use a spray bottle with water, and 1 or 2 drops of soap liquid (not more) and a 2 teaspoons of rubbing alcohol

    Best approach is to have the tank painted and cleared, then let it dry for a week, then wet sand the whole tank with 400-600 and apply the decals, then get the whole lot cleared again.

    You can apply the decals after the base coat of colour before the clear, however....depending on the paint and the decals you can sometimes get some post clear coat bubbles under the decals as the base coat gasses off more and dries. (hence my recommendation above on getting it cleared, letting it dry and then clear it again after the decals are on).
     
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  17. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    I put 2 coats - a light & a full of clear on mine before doing the decals, it then had another 2 full coats of clear once done.
     
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  18. straycat

    straycat New Member

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    Jim the other advantage with clearing it before putting the decals on is, you can lightly sand away any slight "ridge" that maybe present where the red paint meets blue paint. that way, you wont see a ridge line under the white decal once its applied and cleared over. If your painter uses thin line masking tape it may not be a big issue, but I always like to ensure those paint lines are seamless.
     
  19. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    Again excellent advice. I am thinking this is getting over my head so I am talking to a painter right now. I may still try this on my own, because you can't learn by staying on the sidelines!
     
  20. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    Still trying to line up all the stripes etc....this is way harder than I thought. I have no idea how Honda did this on a production line setting.

    IMG_0106.JPG
     
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