on my 6th-gen VFR, and thought I'd pass along how it went. Yes, there are pictures. Starting with the cowls off, and having installed the new overflow tank. Use pliers to move the two spring clips on the hoses, pull two bolts, remove the old tank. Pull the upper overflow hose, pull the lower hose- from the radiator- and plug it. set the tank aside where it won't fall over. Stick the lower hose on the new tank and bolt it on, then install the overflow hose. You will need to pull the cap off the old tank and put it on the new, and fill the new tank. That tank's one reason I went with the R&G, seemed like better idea than performing surgery on the original tank. In the cutout area at the top left you can see the engine bolt you'll be removing. And it IS a bolt; on my bike, the nut you have to remove first is on the right. Then use the rod from the R&G kit to push it out to the left. Here you see the dab of white paint I put on the left end of the new rod to mark the inside of the fairing for drilling. And of course it's dripping on the new tank. I snapped the right cowl on, put in one bolt to hold it, pushed the rod until contact and rotated it, which left a nice white spot on the inside of the cowl. Note: that spot is NOT the center of the bolt, that's right at the top; and it's right on a step in the cowl. I actually drilled the hole at an upward angle into what's the level area of this step, just below the mark. Used a brad-point wood bit, which kept it from walking and cut a nice clean hole. Set the cowl back in place and see if you're centered on the rod; if not, mark where you need to enlarge the hole to center it. Repeat as needed until the rod can slide smoothly through. I used a dremel tool with a rotary file bit; take your time and it'll cut the material nicely. Slide one of the bobbins on. There's a smaller shank, that's the part that actually has to fit into a hole in the cowl, mark as best you can the area you need to cut out. Better to cut inside your lines and then try and cut some more than make it a too-big, sloppy hole. Note: the instructions say to do the cutting from the inside; I found it easier to leave the cowl on the bike once the rod would fit through and do the cutting there. Made it easier to keep the bit cutting inside the marked lines. If you do that, remember you've got things inside that you do not want that cutter to contact, so don't let it go too deep. When the bobbin shank would fit in, I left the hole a slightly snug fit, removed the cowl and went to a sanding drum on the dremel to clean up the shape and smooth the edges. That gave me a nice clean cutout with only a tiny bit of scraping needed to clean off any burrs. Repeat all that on the other side. Install the cowls. Make sure the rod is sticking out an equal amount on both sides, install the spacers(on this bike the longer spacer goes on the right), then the bobbin, then the washer and nut. Note: You will need TWO 19mm sockets, two extensions(or two 19mm deep sockets) and ratchets to complete this. . You've got a locking nut on each end, and nothing but a socket on each will allow you to tighten them. On mine only one was screwing down beyond the lock ring on the nut. I had to remove the other nut, push the rod to the right a ways so I could get vise grips on it, and hold it while I turned the nut down past the ring. You could also(if you have this problem), after the cutting and fitting is done, pull the rod, clamp it in a vise and install one nut to that point, then push it through washer, bobbin, spacer and frame, then install the other side. As to tightening it down, the instructions are 'tighten till you feel compression, then a little more till you feel compression increase, then 1/4 turn more, and DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN'. Max torque listed is 40nm, which converts to 29.5foot-pounds. So I set my torque wrench for 20 and stopped there. The assembly is rock-solid, so I'll leave it there. No, the torque wrench isn't essential; I worry about things, so it took that factor out. That's it. Looks good, and a very solid setup.