Just picked up a (85') VF1000 engine for my (85") VF700F - Now what external parts fit?

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by 4a15, Jun 10, 2012.

  1. GreyVF750F

    GreyVF750F Member

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    That's great! I see the F motor from your pic's has the engine mounts like the 750. The R motor has them different. Good to know. I went so far to look up the "Gimp". That's an R motor in a 750 frame. Big difference from what you just did/show'd. Are the valve covers on the F 1000 larger than the F 750? It also looks like the rear valve cover will come off without dropping engine like on the R engine.

    Good deal on the swap. Waiting to see it finished and if they are any gotchas a long the way. Keep us posted please.
     
  2. 4a15

    4a15 New Member

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    The rear cover on the vf1000 has a large hump from what appears to be an internal oil / blow-by vapor baffle. The VF700 does not have this. Instead the oil baffle on the VF700 is at the back of the engine between the rear exhaust ports. The valve covers should come off with no problems. The taller rear valve cover looks like it will clear the bottom of the tank.

    I have the clutch back together. I tried to move the bike when it was in gear by only using the clutch. It feels like it has resistance like it is working normally, however it did not let go and let the bike roll. I'm hoping the plates are just stuck by sitting. I'm also hoping when I run it up the first time hot oil will work it's way into the clutch plates and it will correct itself.
     
  3. 4a15

    4a15 New Member

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    Two more problems:
    1) The rear valve cover's extra hump hits the bottom of my gas tank!
    2) The stock aluminum airbox for the carbs is too small for the vf1000 carbs.

    Besides the mounting holes where the carbs attach, does anyone know if the factory VF1000 airbox is the same? I'm about to break out my dremel and go to town on my VF700 airbox, and then slit my perfect rubber velocity stacks to make things fit - unless someone needs a trade?
     
  4. 4a15

    4a15 New Member

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    It's in.
    It's done.
    Awesome....

    Kind of like when I replaced the straight 6 with a V-8 in my Datsun Z..... its faster than it should be.

    The bike looks the same as before, just 300 more cc's. The exhaust sounds a little deeper. Does not feel any different on the road, it's only about 20 pounds heaver anyway.
     
  5. hopit88

    hopit88 New Member

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    What did you end up using for the exhaust? The smaller diameter 700's? How did you resolve the smaller 700 air box plenum?
     
  6. GreyVF750F

    GreyVF750F Member

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    Along with hopit88 questions: what gotchas did you run in to,rear valve cover fix, what cdi boxes did you use, still have both rads, that's all for now.

    Except how about some more pics, please.
     
  7. 4a15

    4a15 New Member

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    I have only run it up and down the street up until today (been busy). Well I ran it on the open road and it ran like crap. It ran like the carbs were real lean. It's ok part throttle. But if I open it up it just falls flat. If i keep part throttle and hold the front brake (power brake) as i go down the road, the damn thing has soo much torque the rear wheel will brake loose.

    The rear valve cover is real tight against the bottom of the tank. I pretty much just forced it on!! Problem was where the rubber breather tube attaches. It resulted in a small indentation under the tank, and a compression of the rubber tube it really was no big deal.

    Now the carbs air filter box was a bit of a problem. I did not want to spend the money on another box, so I broke out the drill and dremel. Seemed to work ok, of course this may be my new problem.

    Also, it seems the new to me engine is making a lot of noise in the clutch area. I'm hoping it's only an easy bearing that will be easy to replace. When I first started the engine the clutch plates were stuck from it sitting so long.

    As far as picks - the bike looks identical as when I started, with the exception of the clutch cover.
     
  8. GreyVF750F

    GreyVF750F Member

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    The rattling clutch could very well be from engine oscillations from carbs being out of sync. It does make a difference. Though it sounds like your carbs are not right by the way it runs. Check first to see if all slides are working when idling/reving.
     
  9. 4a15

    4a15 New Member

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    Fixed the carbs. Was by stupid fault. I failed to pull the bottom section under the main jet and clean the little holes out. I had to pull the carbs and do it again. Their back in and the engine now runs great!!! Goose the throttle at about 10 mph and the front end comes up.

    The clutch is still rattling. I pulled the clutch cover and checked out the clutch. This is what I discovered:
    1) The end of the clutch is rubbing on the inside of the clutch cover - it's actually polished a little ring on it.
    2) I can grab the outside of the clutch and wiggle it just a little bit. Does not move much - but it appears this is the cause of the rattle. The center shaft inside the clutch does not have any detectible play. Only the outside moves, including the large ring gear behind it.
    3) I can't get the nut off because I don't have what looks like an expensive tool.
    4) If I reach my fingers to the back side of the clutch, I can feel a spring in there - is is supposed to have play or be tight?

    When I first installed the engine the clutch plates were stuck. Could I have broken something when I rocked the bike forward and backward to break them free. I don't see any obvious damage. When I first examined the inside of the engine before installing it I noticed it looked like someone took a grinder to the inside of the clutch housing. The grindings were on the center section only - what now looks like a clearance attempt by the previous owner - CRAP!!! This looks expensive.

    Photo-0027.jpg

    Any tricks to get the weird nut off?
     
  10. 4a15

    4a15 New Member

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    Spend about 90 dollars replacing the needle bearings, the bearing guide, and the main clutch spring. Run test same thing!!! Ultimately figured out the damn clutch cover was dented inward ever so slightly from it's previous life. Made some nasty clearance cuts on the reinforcing ribs on the inside of the cover and - no more CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK when I pull the clutch lever.

    Finally got it all back together and took it for a 50 mile ride yesterday. It handles and feels the same as with the original 700 engine - weight wise. The difference is there is a lot more noticeable torque at any speed or gear. I can now cruse around town in a higher gear at about 4k, and I don't need to downshift to get moving quickly. In high gear it turns about 5k at about 65 - 70 MPH, and there is plenty of passing power without having to downshift!!

    Either way, it fits with very little persuasion and runs like a scalded cat.

    Photo-0011.jpg

    Photo-0012.jpg

    Photo-0013.jpg

    Photo-0014.jpg
     
  11. vfrcapn

    vfrcapn Member

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    Bike looks good, congrats.
     
  12. GreyVF750F

    GreyVF750F Member

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    Bike looks good. What did you do about the rear valve cover hitting tank? Does the rear valve cover come off without much trouble?
     
  13. 4a15

    4a15 New Member

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    It's no problem removing the rear valve cover with the engine in. The 1k engine has an oil separator / breather in the rear head, and not in the very back of the engine like the 700. Both engines still have what I believe is an oil drain back port, which is behind the clutch slave cylinder. I just T'd the original lower oil breather tube into the 1k's breather tube.

    As fare as clearance between the taller valve cover and the bottom of the tank - that's a tight fit. I turned the fitting downward and just basicly squeezed it on. I ended up with a little dent under my tank, but so far no problems.

    I was having what I though was an air starvation problem at full throttle (possibly from using a 700 airbox on an 1000 engine). I confirmed this by removing the rubber air snorkels. This solved the full throttle hesitation - but now its too damn loud! To top it off, it acts like it's still a little hungry for air at the uppermost RPM's. Any idea's how to feed more air in the small box without making all the extra noise? If I decide to just live with the noise, does anyone know just how much one can open the airbox before Pandora climbs out?
     
  14. safetypro10

    safetypro10 New Member

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    Sounds like you need a little extra air at speed. Maybe a air tube or two feeding the air box.

    Larry
     
  15. 4a15

    4a15 New Member

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    Pulled the lid off the airbox and took it for a ride. Holy crap! It woke up even more! (I thought it was already showing everything it had) Real smooth through entire RPM range. But with no airbox lid or snorkels it's just to obnoxious.

    So, I drilled about 12 1" holes toward the rear area of the airbox lid and re-installed the snorkels. I drilled the holes farther back, in attempt to keep it quieter, so the noise would be baffled more by the tank before reaching open air. Took it for another test ride and it's just as smooth and powerful, except it's sooo much quieter under the tank. Most of the noise now comes out of the modified mufflers like it's supposed to.
     
  16. BiKenG

    BiKenG New Member

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    Can you point me to information about a VF1000R with chain driven cams. I am unaware of that one.
     
  17. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    BiKenG, how far back are you going in the archives?

    It was 1984 only. Not imported to the U.S.
    [​IMG]

    Chain driven cams and I don't think the heads were lined bored for the cams. You can see differences in the cowl vents, fuel tank shape and the mufflers were a riveted design.

    U.S. consumers were pissed that the world got this bike and the U.S. got the 1000F. And when it finally hit the U.S. shores in 85 (with the gear driven cams) it came with the single headlight, again upsetting some people.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2019
  18. BiKenG

    BiKenG New Member

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    The first VF1000R we got in the UK was I think in '84 and that was gear driven cams. To the best of my knowledge ALL VF1000Rs had gear driven cams. There were many changes for the '85 model, but even the cam gear train is the same, although the heads and cams etc changed. There were obvious changes to the cam bearing caps etc, so they did some re-design work for '85. I have no information suggesting the engine was in any way smaller.

    Regarding cam bearing boring, I'm in the process of clarifying that in another post.
     
  19. 4a15

    4a15 New Member

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    Welcome back from the dead!!!! Sold the bike 5 years ago. Got too comfortable... found myself pushing it too much. Moved to Orlando. The way jackasses drive around here... done riding.

    Looking for parts... good luck. Try Ebay.
     
  20. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I will consider myself corrected then. But I remember something about the heads on the 84 being smaller (and therefor easier to use for a swap in the 1000F frame), perhaps not line bored, or perhaps the different (smaller) cam caps allowed a smaller head cover.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2019
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