Matt Tries – 1984 VF500F Overhaul

^^ jam the gears with a penny or a rag

 

Got a click at 44ft-lb with a door hinge I took the the grinding wheel. Thanks for the quick response late, Squirrel!



I'll sleep and think about whether or not I think that was a good idea, lol.

 

Yeah, glad that worked. I could not get that idea to work with my VF. I ended up having to buy the tool at the Cycle Gear by my house.

Even with the tool it was a b!itch.

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/stockton-clutch-tool?sku_id=1124089

 

I have always preferred this type.

https://www.denniskirk.com/ebc/clutch-removal-tool-ct002.p283230.prd/283230.sku

 

Thanks guys. I may order the type that NB mentioned for peace of mind and knowing that I'll get it torqued correctly and not damage the basket. Or I may just call the door hinge click "good enough" for now.

I tested the tolerances on the '86 oil pump I put in, and they were within spec. It wasn't obvious how to check it at first, but there's a procedure in the manual. I think I can prime the pump by filling with oil and spinning the motor to make sure oil is flowing.

Here are some comparison shoots of the 1984 vs 1986 oil pump in case it's useful to anyone else:

84 siphon on top, 86 below


84 pump on left, 86 on right. The 86 is definitely a bit bigger. The sprocket has the same number of teeth and diameter, but it is a slightly different part. I think they can probably be used interchangeably though.




And installed. I also think this is too small of an oil filter so I'll get a new one before running.


Have a happy Daytona 500 Day.

 

Nice work. If you got it to give ya a solid click, and you could do it a couple times to ensure nothing else was moving, it should be fine.

 

If I might suggest..... don't use a Purolator PureOne, even Purolator recommends against it. The filter media is too fine (~20 microns), and does not flow as well as conventional filter...... 9-11 GPM for PureOne vs. 11-14 GPM for the regular one (~30 micron). I'd think you'd want max flow available.

 

Thank you for looking out. I didn't know that about the finer filter media. Better oil flow is the goal and this would have been absolutely counterproductive. At the end of the season I dumped the oil and filter thinking I had another filter on hand. Forgot I put it on my buddy's bike. I put this one on because I had it on hand, and now I'm seeing that was a dumb thing to do. Luckily it only had 0 miles and one start on it as I was trying to get the oil level right before winter.

Can't re-use it anyway since the gasket fell out when I pulled it off, lol.

I pulled the left cover off and filled the motor with 2L of oil. It took quite a long time, but I was able to finally get the pump primed and oil flowing from the new pump. I'm sure there's a less messy way to do this, but I wanted to make sure oil was flowing from the new pump. I'll get a correct filter and try to prime through the full system, put the cover back on, and move on to the next chore!



*edit-gah, come to think of it though, I'm sure I've run one of these in the past since I didn't (and apparently still don't as of 15 minutes ago) know any better. I'm starting to think it wasn't design issues that killed a lot of these motors... it's dumbass owners like me, hah.

 

You got me all paranoid now...I have been using a Wix 51334 oil filter for 300 miles. I hope it is not a <20 micron filter!

I better check!

 

YES...that is a MUCH better tool.

The one I bought from Cycle Gear really kind of sucks. I had to modify it to actually make it work.

But they had it in stock and I was in a bind. It actually did work OK on my Nt650 tho...

 

Let me know what you find. I just ordered 3, lmao.

**edit--son of a bitch. It says 21 micron.

**edit 2--I was able to cancel in time. I'll do some research on what I should get..

 

Crap.....let me know....I hate going to the local Honda dealer for oil filters. Seems really overpriced.

 

Didn't mean to cause panic..... folks have used many, even me, before I looked into it. I brought it up because of older stories of chocolate cams back in my Magna days, and think these engines need all the flow they can get. No worries, your engine won't blow up........

It only really matters at cold start-up in combo with say a 20W oil would be the worst case... the filter flows what it can, then the excess goes into bypass. I would hear little noises with my FJR, 20W40 was specified at the time, then later changed to 10W40, and the cold noises stopped with the PureOne.... anyway, no need for a 20-ish micron filter. The regular Purolator L14610 is fine, Mobil 1 M1-110, Bosch 3323 (who owns Purolator now)..... shorter versions are L14612, M1-108, 3300. All ~30 microns AFAIK, and will be a bit less when they get some dirt load.

On the other end of the spectrum, the stainless washable re-usable filters filter to 36 microns, and brag theirs are the best for flow.... well, yeah, makes sense, but 40 microns is typical of bearing clearances and we don't want big pieces of dirt flowing..... many have used those to high mileage with no apparent ill effects, but I hesitate to go there myself.

 

I would be really interested to know what the output of the vf pump is per minute. It would also be interesting to know what the pop off pressure is for the PRV. Good luck finding it.

 

Call Cass and see if he'll give you the good guy price, tell him I sent ya. I order them 3 at a time.

 

"Hi, Cass? Yea, hi. This is Matt from the gen 1 VFRWorld forums. Yea, the guy from House told me you got the hookup on good and cheap oil filters for the VF500F. When will they be here?"

I could theoretically setup a test system with an extra pump... I could drive the pump and 84 siphon/86 pump with a drill of known RPM and measure the volume after 30 seconds. I'm not positive if that would scale to real operational RPM ranges, but I would think it should at least be close given its a positive displacement pump. No idea what the losses would be due to blow by though.

And 100% not a clue how to test the pressure release valve pressure. I'm certainly curious though.

No, don't worry about causing panic! I honestly wouldn't have even considered the filter media mesh(?) size had you not mentioned it. It definitely gives me more to think about. I'm here to learn, and I appreciate the advice.

 

Results from a oil filter comparison by some bored engineer, when disassembling a genuine Honda Oil Filter and comparing build style and quality to other filters, these stood out as pretty much identical.

Emgo & Hi Flo

Small:
Emgo 10-82230
HiFlo HF303

Large:
Emgo 10-82210

There's some chrome versions of the Emgo that I've found dirt cheap and put a quick flat black paint job on too.

 

Thanks for this....I will keep this in mind. The only reason I used the WIX is that the local auto parts store stocks them CHEAP.

 

HiFlo also sells the RC filter, or "race" filter. Crazy thing is, it looks like the K&N with the nut spot welded to the top. I'd prolly dodge that one.

 

I've seen that one too... nope. Don't know how a nut spot welded to the casing makes it "race".