melted stator wires

I use that grease for bulbs etc, not electical connections. I had a honda bulb that was a bitch to get oot, had to use a screwdriver to extract it, I tried the re-insertion withoot that tune-up grease that you mentioned and it was still stubborn, used that grease, and she slipped right in there. I use it in my house for the LED and all them fancy bulbs I got in my chandeliers.

I have some far oot spray stuff I got from a top secret place, it says right on the can that its meant to be used for regulator recitifiers, connections, etc. I could take a picture but am not around it. I believe in direct solder btw.

 

Yea but the thing is the volts are dead stable with led's on or off, if you ever check volts with turn signals or brake lights on/off they jump around a bit. Each of those incandescent bulbs use up 21 watts x2, plus 21 watt x2 if brake is on at the same time as turn signals. I know the electrical can handle those but my point was to keep the power stable. Hell even my Honda Fit sometimes dome lights or headlights dim if i step on the brake at idle, but ever since i changed them out for led and then HID headlamps, no more. Honda's electrical system on even their cars kinda suck.

This is the gauge i run..

 

The point of using dielectric grease is to do so sparingly. Not fill to the brim. This prevents corrosion (the main cause of excess heat) and allows the terminal to pass heat to the connector casing. Put too much in and you hamper this heat transfer.

The reason the voltage drops is because there is a change in the current draw from the battery. This rapid draw does not give the r/r time to stabilize. This is normal and expected and since the R/r doesnt supply the current for it, it is not effected. The r/r supplies charging and continuous current for head lights, ignition, fan etc. Not turn signals.

Best thing any one could do is upgrade the wiring to 12awg or even 10awg fine strand wire. And change the connectors to either more pins to spread the load or larger pins to spread the heat. Most are soldering and use heat shrink tube to get around these issues. This actually is the best solution as it eliminates the main issue of the connector.

Removing load will force your r/r to make more heat. This is fairly bad as heat ages electronics at a fairly fast rate. Too much heat and they just fail.

 

This is what I swear by. It never gets brittle with age, like some of us do. Wurth makes some killer stuff for cleaning switches too. eace:

 

Does anyone have any experience with this Brand?
I think I have to do the drill..... :sad:
http://www.amazon.com/Honda-VFR800-...qid=1400077858&sr=8-10&keywords=vfr800+stator

 

Aggh - those VFR electrical gremlins got you too Long? :hurt:

I seem to remember seeing some adverse comments about Electrosport stators. Most likely somewhere in the infamous Rubo/stator RR thread...

Any chance the bike knows about Reggies Roadhouse Roundup coming up and has decide to pull a sickie, so you have to take the BMW?:sick:

Good luck


SkiMad

 

Hi Skimad

I have to open her up and follow the drill.....I took my wife out riding last Sunday and the bike having a hard time to start.
New battery so I can only think of RR and stator. I hate electrical problem. If I cannot get her ready then the GS will fill in her shoe :wink:
I will go over rubo post again to pick out the proper replacement. Hope all is well for you, ride safe and enjoy the Europe riding season.

 

Check the battery is fully charged and load tested before moving on to the rest of the drill. If you have only just installed a new battery it is not impossible that it is faulty. A small percentage of new batteries fail very soon after installation and you may one of the unlucky ones. As its a new battery I would be tempted to take it to whoever sold it to you and get them to test it before working through the drill.

I hope you folks have better weather over there for the Roadhouse - its been snowing most days this week in the Alps!

:smow::smow::smow::smow::smow::smow::smow::smow:




SkiMad

 

It is 100° today .......Hot hot and fire are every where yike :jaw:

 

Hmm - pretty much the conditions when the wires on my 2007 stator turned to a gooey mess. If you are in a rush to get the bike sorted and the drill is not entirely your bag - then I would be tempted to just unbolt the stator cover and see what you find. You will need a new stator cover gasket - but if you are greeted by the smell of fried electrical wirings or it looks like this then its time to buy a new stator...




Whilst the ski season has officially ended. the weather in the Alps really can't make up its mind that winter is finished - after a few hours of dry roads, the snow comes back and I have already been caught out twice on the motorbike this week by suddenly changing weather. Getting really hacked off cleaning road salt from the Street Triple so I would be happy to trade you for 100 degrees!



SkiMad

 

This is me starting the bike and then fully loading the electrical system. hazzards, brakes, high beams and radiator fan.
You DO NOT NEED ANY MORE POWER. If the bike has this much spare power at idle, imagine how much spare power, (that must be converted to heat in the rr/stator) the bike will have cruising down the highway at 6000 rpms or on spirited riding near red line....


http://s574.photobucket.com/user/ca...091A50A6984_zps86a1f33d.mp4.html?sort=3&o=340

 

So a while back, I replaced my burnt 3-pin AC connector with direct solder connections, and mounted the R/R with heat sink grease to an aluminum heat spreader plate. The system is working the way it's supposed to. I found an FET R/R for a Suzuki B-King / GSXR etc. on eBay for $25 and ordered one. It checks out OK and fits the mounting bolts. My question is, should I install the new FET R/R or just keep it as a spare?

It seems to me if the advantage of the FET is a lower voltage drop when shorting the stator, that the heat generation is transferred from the R/R to the stator, which would carry a higher current. Just wondering if anyone who has switched to FET R/R has had any stator problems?

 

I would swap it ASAP. While I applaud your efforts with the thermal paste, it's like putting a band-aid on a chest wound. I nearly got stranded out in the boonies with my '98 last year. Had a buddy with me so we were able to buy a new battery. I was an hour and a half from home. I got lucky. My R/R was putting out just enough juice while riding (not at idle) to allow the battery to slowly decline. I swapped the Honda R/R the next day.

The MOSFET R/R will not harm your stator. It will also supply much more evenly controlled charging voltage throughout the RPM range. Seriously, just do it.




(Below is not directed at you, H3nry.)

On a side note: I bang my head against the wall when people talk about keeping an R/R under the seat for a spare. Really? It's a KNOWN bad part and you want to carry around another KNOWN bad part, just in case it goes out and burns up your wiring? (In which case you can't fix it on the side of the road.) :chaingun:

/rant over

 

I have been running my FH020aa MOSFET rr for the last year. It is the best thing since sliced bread. I have a voltage gauge mounted as well as a VFRness. I have relocated the rr to the passengers left foot bracket to allow the absolute very shortest distance from stator to rr to battery. This combo is rock solid and voltage is ALWAYS 14.1 volts... ALWAYS. The rr stays room temperature ALWAYS as well. IMHO this is absolutely the only way to go.

I can't spell the name of the oem rr supplier that manufactures the FH020aa for the life of me Shindingon or something lol, but their FH models, the MOSFET models, are the only way to go. I can not stress enough not even thinking about buying from another manufacturer or buying a non FH model.


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I have a Shindengen FH010AA from a ZX-10. It's smaller capacity than the FH020AA (which is the same as a FH012AA).

 

Yup they're all good. Just mine is a newer version


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Shindengen, available from roadstercycle.com, you should also look at the SH775, series version. Great products from a very knowledgeable supplier.

 

Looking at Shindengen's tech website, the SH775 looks like the cat's meow except it's a bit undersized for a VFR with all the lights and fan running. Give it another 5 or 10 amps and it's definitely a winner. Since G5s seem to have adequate stator cooling I'll go ahead with the FET R/R. As an aside, a long time ago there was a Suzuki which tended to fry stators and the cure was to drill a larger hole into the oil gallery for more cooling oil.

 

The SH775 is not a MOSFET, it is not a shunt either. It is a series rr. I just installed one on a friends 2009 zx6r along with a new oem stator and a voltage gauge. Interestingly, it operates at a much higher temperature than my fh020aa. So much so that we relocated it to under the tail, into the air stream in an attempt to keep temps in check. After doing this the temps came down to a more realistic warm, not quite to hot to touch temperature. We contacted roadstercycle.com about this and he said it is normal and that even though the rr operates warmer than the MOSFET fh020aa, that due to the nature of series rr's only drawing as much current from the stator as needed, instead of mosfets and shunts shorting 100% stator current to ground always, that the stator will run cooler with the series rr than with the MOSFET rr.

The running voltage was pretty rock solid with the sh775, at 14.4 ALWAYS, though.


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Series is the way to go. Shindengen just needs to make one heavy enough to handle a VFR. You could probably use an SH775 if you switched to LED headlights. 20 Amps isn't enough for dual headlights, ignition, fuel injection, and fan, and that's what the SH775 is rated at. It would run smokin' hot and maybe burn out on a hot day with the fan on a lot.