My latest 2nd Gen Interceptor - an early '86 round gauge RC26 w/latter '87 Blue fairings (?)

Thanks, Capt......your opinion means a lot to me, as well!

 

Damn! That fucking sound Bazza! Love it!

 

Thank you, my brother.....pretty exciting to see & hear her back up and running!

Got some more work done today. Tail and headlight cowls. Turn signals and mirrors. Front fender.

All electrics tested good, so onto the next step....maybe tomorrow or Monday, depending on weather and my energy level.

 

A little more progress today. Tank is on with new fuel lines and filter along with infill panels, battery covers, and seat.

The graphics aren't "lining up" on the tail cowl/battery covers so will have to address that. And I just noticed I left the headlight cowl on the inside of the right hand bracket arm, so the cowl will have to come back off next time i work on her. Dumb mistake but correctable with a little more elbow grease.

This seat isn't sitting down correctly either so may try a different one.

This is the tank that came on one of my RC24's that I will be working on this winter. That bike will receive a decent tank that I have in my spares.

Happy Sunday!

 

Ya know........I do have the correct decals needed to re-do that tail cowl, if I wanted to. After giving it some thought, it seems like the thing to do to correct that issue.

That's not the Pearl Crescent White either. It's the Shasta White.

Lightly sand off the old decal - re-paint cowl as needed - apply new decal? Clear coat not necessary, right?

 

Either the side covers have been redone or the tail cowl. You can mix n match 10 sets of VFR bodywork and they will never be that far off, if at all.
And I can tell you which one was re-done... the rear cowl. See how the red/blu stripe dips down on the way to the side covers? It should be straight and the exposed white should be consistent.

Also, just remove the 10mm head bolt holding that cowl bracket and reinstall behind the cowl.

 

You can use a heat gun to remove/peel the decal without fucking up the paint. There will be some adhesive residual left that can also be removed safely. No need to F up the paint.

The only graphics that are clear-coated from the factory are on the tank.

If yours were clear-coated by whoever applied them... bummer. Way to lock in a mistake.

Have you checked all of your side covers to see if you have the ones that were redone with the tail cowl?

 

Thanks! I didn't notice that bracket could be removed....that will save a LOT of elbow grease!!!

I saw what you saw about the tail cowl decal not being straight. So that';s the one I will have to fix. Will be good experience for me.

 

Also, not sure if that is just a pic of the seat sitting on there, but the front is not engaged properly. And the rear of the seat pans can warp from being stored long term on something not level. You can re-train them with some ingenuity.

 

All side covers of mine are correct. None line up with this tail cowl.

Will try the heat gun, thanks.

 

I did re-check the front and it was engaged/locked in. Might be warped as you said. It's not the best condition one I have. I will try another one - thanks!

 

Man the front of the seat SURE looks like it is still sitting on top of something. The large plastic tab on the seat pan that goes under the sub frame slot would have to be VERY bent down, and the seat pan plastic really stressed and a different color white.

 

I know - it does. All I can do is re-check it again once the rain let's up. It's coming down pretty good right now...lol...

 

Looking through my lower panels......the proper ones 'not having the "750" designation' is looking a little threadbare.

How much bad JUJU would I bring upon myself for using a pair of the RC24 panels? Even if only temporary?

 

Not sure about the total level of bad JUJU, but definitely more than RC26 on RC24.

 

Not good......

 

I'm going to try and rehab a couple panels to use - not from an RC24, so hopefully the bad JUJU will stay away!

In the meantime a new problem - won't start unless I attach battery leads to the fuel pump.

In other words...the fuel pump works....but doesn't run when hooked up normally through the bike's wiring harness.

I'm guessing it might be the "run relay".

I looked through my spares and couldn't find one like this one....so hoping I can just bypass it as I have done on other later RC26's. Those relays had 3 wires and I would spice together the blue and black, IIRC.

This one has only 2: black and black w/blue stripe...but also has this yellow one that plugs into the wiring harness. So how do I bypass this one? Splice the black and black w/blue stripe and then what do I do with that yellow one? I will try to look at a schematic but am open for any suggestions.

Thanks!

 

And how does one test a relay like this with a multi-meter? TIA!

 

Yes the blk & blk/blu. The yellow then becomes irrelevant, it's the wire that is getting a trigger from the ignition system. As you have noted, most other Fuel Cut Relays have all 3 wires in the plug.

 

Thanks Capt - will try a splice of those 2 wires and see what happens. Raining again now so will have to wait. Will post results.....