Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Dr.Инженер, May 17, 2019.
It looks pretty cool, what I've seen of it. Are you purposely taking bad pictures? ;-)
LOL, the tail isn't "tidy" yet and to avoid obviously annoying comments I avoid fulls pics.
But on to the real question, got a carb bowl leaking. I need to replace the seals. So got a suggestion for who to to go with?
Keyster makes decent bits and you can't go wrong with Japanese manufactured OEM quality viton.
You should really take the time to replace the fuel crossover o rings when the carbs are out. Trust me. It seems daunting to most people but really not that bad.
There are kits out there that provide every o ring you need in Viton.
But if you want just a float bowl gasket, a -041 Viton oring is perfect. I get them off Amazon for less than a buck a piece. I use them on all my rebuilds with zero issues.
Listen to Cap.
I was told by over two dozen people..Don't take the carbs apart!!!!....but I had three or four folks, that I trust their judgement inherently, and they all said it was no big deal. Just be meticulous and pay attention to the order of disassembly. I just took a lot of pics of the process step by step and used them to reverse the process. It was actually infinitely easier than I had led myself to believe it would be. If you're gonna go, go all the way. You'll be glad you did.
Yeah sure thanks for the heads up, i will put the new fuel and vent tubes in when i replace the seals. Also though there are no 2nd Gen kits available at that site? Will another gen work from there?
Everything you need is right here:
Pulled the carbs off again in prep for parts coming in this week. I’ve done this so many times note it took me 10 min to remove them
bowls still look good from last clean
Check out the full T from the previous PO job , time to remove and replace , it’s an aluminum insert covered in JB wild ( i think)
While it’s apart I’ll replace all the 30 year old screw with HSCS (bonus working at a fastener distributor, Just a walk in the warehouse and all screws are collected)
Dissembled and waiting for new parts
Got it out for a Small sprint today. It rode great for a bench synch. The new/used pulse gen did as it’s supposed to. I ditched the previous tail. I liked it better but the tail electrics would be odd, and I wasn’t happy with it. I got a CBR tail, welded up a bracket with square tubing and bolted it together. Still need to brace up the muffler. Tach stopped working, that’ll be this week’s project. It’s came a long way from the junk pile.
More on the frame, I looked over Fatso1277 and Oakley_burn threads for a while and mimicked theirs just a bit. Theirs was more of a "Z". I decided to go with an "A" support. I only tacked it together. It was dropped it off at the machine shop. Got it back a week later and bolted up. Plenty of room in the under tray for the R/R, CDI box and fuel pump. I just zipped tied the extra wire together to clean it up and presto, bobs your uncle
looks fine but you need to ditch the rear brake reservoir and use a clear plastic 3-4" tube instead.
Checked compression number last night after putting some time and miles on it the last couple weekends. Started it up and let it idle for about 10min to get warm then checked compression.
I've just recently been getting hanging revs at the blip of the throttle. Vacuum leak at the boots?
Yes sir, That is on the list of needs. Along with a carb sync tool of sorts just haven't decided which on one.
Likely. Re-check your clamps. Sometimes what feels right on first assembly is loose after a few heat cycles. Also, if you still have the limiting collars in place on the clamps, you might have to remove them to get tight enough. The clamps tend to "stretch" over time and heat cycles, and many people over-tighten them early in their life. When I was doing my ST1100 carbs one of the first things I noticed on dis-assembly was the clamps were completely bottomed (no collars) and I could spin them with my finger. It was weird, only 27K miles. Ironically had to switch to VFR750 clamps, wasn't gonna waste my money on new ST1100 clamps if they are like that.
The morgan carbtune is excellent. Ive had mine about 8 years and has worked flawlessly in that time.
Buying the carb synch adjust tool at the same time is a REAL SKIN SAVER. You will think its only a right angled screwdriver (and it is) BUT it saves you getting burnt... Only got mine 2 years ago & wish I'd done it sooner... Working in a tight hot space between the V with this tool makes it really easy.
I have since gone to thease clamps.... unless I need it to be 100% stock...
I use thease from Randakk's .... they work great unless I need the bike to be 100% stock.
Clamp by sixdog posted May 16, 2020 at 7:17 AM
Thanks for the advice. Good call on loose clamps. #1 and #2 were loose. After tightening them up i checked with starting fluid and #1 is working doing fine. #2 is still leaking. i'm pretty sure i installed the boot correctly but I've been wrong b4. So i'll pull it, check for correct installation and remove the spacers.
Side note. This is the First VFR I've owned. There are differences from other bikes i've owned and i would like to know if they are VFR inherent or do parts need either replacement or adjustment.
-The bike seems to be sensitive to pavement line grooves- While riding, I have to avoid the lines in the pavement or else the bike will be pushed off them. Its a weird feeling not something I've dealt with on past bikes.
-The braking feels heavy, not smooth and natural- i have read the manual and seen where its 30'-30Mph and 120'-60mph. To maintain that distance the front end just feels too heavy.
"-The bike seems to be sensitive to pavement line grooves- While riding, I have to avoid the lines in the pavement or else the bike will be pushed off them. Its a weird feeling not something I've dealt with on past bikes."--could be as simple as your tires are older (check birthday) and hardened and track the lines as a result.
Typically with a 16" front you will find quick steering.
Tires are new. I have a 86 VFR with BT45s on it and I do not experience the bike wanting to follow lines to an extent that concerns me. Not any more than any other bike I should say. Steering head bearings? Front wheel bearings? Excessively worn front fork bushings?
Or everything is fine and you're just not accustomed to this bike. Hard to say, everybody's idea of what is normal is different.
And I can't relate to your description of the braking. Not sure what you are trying to convey.
Yes, Quick steer! That is what it feels like. It feels like the steering is sensitive. And After it's loaded from braking its sensitive. Sounds like its partly inherent and possibly front end needs rebuilding.
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