Discussion in '8th Generation 2014-Present' started by armod, Aug 26, 2017.
Not when I have arthritis in both hands!
Not sure what's better as far as square hole or hex nut.
Square hole would make it easier for a torque wrench as there isn't much room in there for some of the longer socke
In general a socket head will grip with less slop than a driver in a square hole, but it could depend (as you say) on the exact dimensions of the tools. The big thing is that the facets on the wrench itself are much better formed than on the cheap crap from the auto store.
I did my first filter change with a wrench from a nice ryco set that fit really well on the filter and had a large diameter hex nut with a 3/8" square hole in the middle (similar style to picture)
It was a breeze to use.
The biggest factor was the cramped working area. And the square driver hole was the only way I could get a torque wrench in there (I don't do mechanical work frequently enough to do it by hand
Manage to torque mine up ok with socket on hex.
The wrench I used had 2-3mm with the filter socket on.
Maybe it's just the old torque wrench I was using
I'm baselining all the fluids in my VFR, and bought the genuine Honda oil filter with the wrench and a spare filter from BikeBandit. I reused the crush washer on the drain bolt, and filled the filter about half full before installing it without spilling anything. Ops check good!
I always 'pre oil' my filters..
Its also a timing thing my sequence is:
Get engine warm,
cover downpipes in FOIL - don't use the one from the kitchen !
Pre oil filter - Fill to the threads ONCE & coat the rubber ring in oil.
using new drain plug washer, torque nut back up.
remove old oil filter
insert new oil filter - IT WILL NOT LEAK
refill with oil.
by filling the filter early in the process, it will have been absorbed into the filter.
Wanted to add my 2c worth to the thread. My oil changes are based on the assumption that frequent oil changes are the single best thing you can do as an owner to prolong the life of your engine.
Actually, BMW changes the engine oil on their track day loaner bikes every 1000kms. On the other hand, automotive OEMs tell you that oil change intervals of 30kkm are ok. The later, based on my experience, is just an effort to keep maintenance costs low for leasing companies. Anyway. The truth is probably somewhere in the middle.
For my old Speed Triple Restomod (https:/t509speedtriple.tumblr.com), I am applying the 1000km interval. It is an old engine and I want to keep it alive as long as possible. For my VFR, I arrived at intervals between 3k and 4kkms - basically she gets fresh oil after each longer tour.
My main point though (arriving at it after three paragraphs) is that I am using Stahlbus oil change valves on both bikes. This means: No mess with oil spill and no wear on the oil drain thread. Highly recommended.
Regarding the oil filter: Hand tight is tight enough. Oil the o-ring and just tighten it by hand. Never failed me on any of my bikes. Plus, you can unscrew by hand at the next oil change.
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Since I'm new to the VFR scene I find some really good info on this thread and I like changing my own oil; however, when I had the local Honda shop put on my new tires service manager said they had a $50 oil change special (Honda filter/oil) so I jumped on it. Maybe I'll get to experience my on oil change next time....unless oil change special is still ongoing
Oil: Rotella T6 full synthetic. Use the exact same oil in two Honda cars and my GMC Durimax too so just one jug of oil in shop instead of many.
Filter: Bosh. I us the Honda car filter. for simplicity reasons. I t is a t bigger than the bike filter but with the farings off, and the water hoses manipulated a bit, they do go in relatively easily. I buy them 1/2 dozen at a time and use the same filters on my bike and two Hinda cars. They do go on sale from time to time.I do not, never had, prefilled the filter. I buy into the fact tha the engine and its components are more than adequately lubricated for the very short period of time that it takes for the oil to make it through the filter and begin circulation in the engine.
Oh! BTW. 211,ooo km and climbing. Mine since new and above process has been constant for last 6 or 7 years on my 2006 bike. Oil changes every 10,000 KM on the 10'salmost since new. Easy to remember. First couple of years I changed oil every 5,000 km but realized i was just throwing money away.
That's pretty much the exact reason I started this thread. Good to see people getting use out of it.
Totally different servicing regime on a hard used/ abused track day bike compared to a bike that is used daily and not 5hat hard.
Used to service my t595 as per book and had no problems.
Each their own when it comes to servicing. I did look at those valves some time ago. Sound like a good bit of kit.
Sounds about right. I always have used T6 in all my bikes. Fantastic stuff. For filters I normally use Purolator One or Purolator Boss filters. The 3.25" varieties. PL14610 or PBL14610.is what my Kawasakis and Yamaha used.
Folowing this: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html looks like the 8th gen VFR will use the same filters so I'm set.
The amount of people with massive failures on those filters are inumerous. I could point you to a number of them here. Even K&N is acknowledging it and they are starting to experience failures on cars now too. Look it up online.
I don't use K&N filters. But as I recall the issue was limited to ones that had the nut brazed on the end. Are they having problems with other ones now?
Honda OEM oil filter and Honda HP4S in 10W-30 with new crush washer.
I have re-used the crush washers many times. Mainly because I didn't have a new one at the time. I think the replacing of the crush washer every oil change is over rated but then again, the few pennies these washers cost, why not just change them out
I know of at least one person who never changes his. I haven't noticed an issue on his VFR as far as leaks go. That is until he hit Bambie with it and sent the bike flying down a rock covered embankment. It leaked a little then. But was able to be ridden for two hours back to our hotel in Spokane Washington after we managed to winch it out of the ditch.
If you buy OEM, of course you pay more for things. There is certainly nothing bad about using and OEM filter and their oil, but there is as good quality or sometimes better out there and for considerably less than OEM. And you don't have to rely on getting the stuff from a motorcycle shop. I buy my filters when they go on sale at Walmart by the half dozen. Thats about the only reason I go in there. And I used to buy by Rotella at an auto-parts shop where I enjoyed a substantial discount.
BTW. You can get some motorcycle stuff here a lot cheaper than the dealerships, including faring clips which are superior to OEM, and the crush washers.
I get my oil / filters / crush washers from Amazon. Using a new crush washer each time and torqueing to spec just helps save on the threads of the pan.
The OEM oil is good for sure, but any good motorcycle oil changed at proper intervals will keep the engine happy.
I ran the same crush washer for about 200K on my 4Runner with no leaks. lol
Not saying that is the right thing to do.
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