Project - 1985 VF1000R Euro - Take 2

ill see what I can do. need a new battery for my digital callipers, try and get one this weekend

 

No way to know tho without installing it.

Maybe I should try cleaning the crusty one up first

Think I'd Fuck it up internally if I put it in the ultrasonic cleaner ?

 

Only one way to find out.......,,

Instead of trying to measure a naff o ring that won’t stay still, measure the groove it sits in

VF1000F2F, in bits

 

See the pics on previous page, the groove in the cover isnt circular.

I have 2 brand new aftermarket Orings that ARE circular, that I will measure. Im not measuring the preformed / naff o-ring

 

I wouldn't fuck with one that is "working". They are not cheap to rebuild.

 

so your saying dont put it in the US Cleaner ?

Ill have to clean it the old fashion way I guess

 

Correct. The water pump in my 85 and the last one I put in the "new" RC26 engine were NASTY RUSTY. Cleaned them the best I could and they work just fine and don't leak a drop.

Can't believe I just typed that, now they're both gonna fail.

 

LOL, lets hope not

 

Does that come under the heading

Me and my big mouth?

I always try not to mention things that may fail, especially with my own cars and bikes

Don’t mind pointing things out to other folk


VF1000F2F, in bits

 

Yeah... I typically try and avoid it too.

idiot

 

Getting closer. Everything is removed now and the top case bolts are removed (2 are still captive since I left the heads on). I spent time cleaning the cases this morning as best I can, I dont want to be splitting this with shyte all over the cases.

Next step is to "Flip" this 200lb hulk over and remove the oil pan & pump before I carefully loosen the 17 lowercase bolts (2 stage loosening in criss cross pattern).

I think ill get my extra lower case out of the barn and use it to "keep " the correct bolts in the correct holes. 17 of them, best to keep careful track of what goes where

 

Here is the sickening reality :
So she is opened up. There were 3 obvious issue when I got in there, 2 I understand one is still a mystery (random nut). Its very worrying when your turning an engine upside down and you hear bits falling about inside.

1) a stopper washer that fits on the countershaft between C2 and C3 is shattered and in bits
2) a small piece of the M2/3 gear dog is chipped
3) a random Nut is in the crank case and none of the nuts in there are missing (only the Rod’s as far as I can tell, have nuts) . valve rocker lock nuts are 10mm , this is 12mm so it didnt come from up top.

Thank fully I have 2 spare counter shafts for parts so I have a new washer here

All Very sickening




replacement washer from my spare counter-shaft


here you can see the space between C2 and C3 - these shouldn't move, the missing stop washer is the culprit

 

here is a birds eye view. given its 200lbs, I decided to work on the floor. the bottom case on the far left is just there to store the 18 bolts and washers in the right place.

Holy fuck, after all this , I hope it will run again.

 

That don’t look to bad, the amount of clear silicone in the pickup is a pointer to others, only use if you have to and very sparingly

The washer and gear are replaceable I hope, the random nut is a bit of a worry


VF1000F2F, in bits

 

yessir ! the nut has me perplexed and worried. I checked my spares and the valve adjuster nuts fit a 10mm socket, this one is 12mm, identical to the con rod nuts. Looking at the parts diagrams, there are no flange nuts like that except the con-rods. All con-rod nuts are accounted for.

Vast majority of the fasteners are bolts. there are very few studs and nuts. (Con rods and valve adjusters being the 2 I can see )

I suppose its possible it got "lost" on a prior strip down (hence the silicone) , one never knows who has done what in 35 years. Still, not a comforting thing to speculate or gamble thats what it is.

I have a good spare M2/3 gear and spare stop washer for the the other fixes, so im not worried there.

 

What about head studs and nuts, what size are they, it’s quite possible that something from the top end has been dropped, and recovery of the nut was just to much like hard work, when whoever lost it had a box of spares

12mm head would normally point to a M8 thread

But I’m sure the motor will be better off with it removed


VF1000F2F, in bits

 

Thanks, Head nuts are "external" and head bolts/studs "internal" (I think, ill double check though). The external head nuts are chrome Acorn nuts, or chrome flange nuts, different to this one. Ive left the heads on this time, so if it did come from a head, it would have been in the distant past.

Anything is possible, but as of right now im not seeing a match in size /material except for the Con Rods.

Ill double check the parts fiche again to see if there are any internal nuts for the head, that may yield a clue. Thanks for the idea

 

Well, no luck on finding any nuts that match. been through the parts fiches several times. its a pristine flange nut M8, 12mm socket fit. no chrome, no rust, no coating. What ever type of steel it is, its the same as the Con Rod nuts.

Tomorrow's plan, is to remove both the Main and the Counter shafts.

Main shaft- replace the M2/3 gear
Counter shaft - replace the shattered stop washer between C2 and C3

Ill also double check all the other gears and dogs again while im at it and measure the shift forks.

ill do another sweep of the cases & underside of the pistons with the magnet and shop rag as well. make sure there aren't more "bits" lurking in there.

 

Good progress. "Extra" parts are disconcerning to say the least. But I'm not worried. It's all either there and correct or it's not.

 

Well, the good news might be that gravity takes these things to the bottom of the pan where they can't do much harm. Nevertheless, disconcerting and I'd want to fish out any extras too. OR at least be sure they're not jammed in between a set of gear teeth.