Project VF500F2

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by shields17, Jan 28, 2020.

  1. shields17

    shields17 New Member

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    Yeah, I think it's smart to sort it out now before it gets painted. I saw on your thread you used POR15, does it generally hold up pretty well over time?
     
  2. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Last edited: Mar 5, 2021
  3. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    It's pretty expensive here too.
     
  4. shields17

    shields17 New Member

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    Thanks! I remember seeing you had good results and went back and found your post so have a bottle of that on order, hoping it will arrive in the next few days. My tank leaks pretty badly upside down but the 500 tank is only 17 litres so hopefully if I brim it and shake it around a bit I can get most of the top covered.

    Making the most of the nicer weather this week so took the bike out for another ride.

    [​IMG]

    It's given me a few bits to solve:
    -The speedo starts squealing above 50mph or so and then doesn't stop until you slow right down. It had a new speedo cable so I'm guessing something within the clocks themselves needs a bit of oil on it. Not looking forward to getting the clocks back off!
    -The rear brake is also not great at the moment, hopefully things improve as the pads bed in. I'm in the habit of using it to stop at junctions etc so had a few scary moments! The lever travels a fair bit too so maybe some air trapped in the system not helping things.
    -Also reminded me to get on with sorting out my mirrors!
     
  5. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    If you switch out the lines for SS items I suspect your brakes will improve.. After 35 years the old lines are likely to be a little spongy.... lol
     
  6. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    The F2 tank is bigger than 20 litres, that was the only reason for turning it over

    If you fuel cap seal is done, I bought a cheap Chinese Cb250 nighthawk cap and used the seal as it’s exactly the same size

    The cap was about £6 with keys so didn’t Ming chucking it in the bin once I had nicked the seal

    Got the cap off AliExpress, just looked £7.20 free post, took 5 weeks to get here

    [​IMG]




    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2021
  7. shields17

    shields17 New Member

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    Yeah the original lines had been butchered off by the previous owner anyway so it has new HEL ones all round. The front is really nice and strong so I suspect it is just a tiny bit of air left in somewhere in the rear.

    Ahh nice thanks! My fuel cap is already a replacement with a different key so no real harm in fitting a new one whole. I had looked but to be honest I wasn't sure if it should actually be totally sealed... I'd never held any of my tanks upside down before to check!

    I'm actually on 3 different keys for ignition, seat and tank. I guess maybe someone lost the original key and all 3 were replaced but not as a set. I've seen a complete set come up on eBay a few times but it's always around £100 which may be fair but not worth it to me.
     
  8. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Just move the tumblers around,

    I did that with my car, the fuel cap was the wrong key, so I bought a couple of golf door handles stripped the locks out,

    Used the spare tumblers to set the cap to the ignition key

    It’s really easy, I know the seat lock on the 1000 is loose tumblers


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  9. shields17

    shields17 New Member

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    I might be misunderstanding you, but would I not still need a complete matching set of barrels to match them all up? If there's a clever way to make them all match I'm all ears!
     
  10. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Yup

    The barrels come apart, each barrel contains 6 tumblers

    You just shift them around in the non matching locks to match the key

    There is normally about 20 base tumblers

    So the maths is 20 to the power of 6 for lock combinations

    Quite a few


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  11. shields17

    shields17 New Member

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    Wow okay you've blown my mind with this... I've just been out in the garage and had the seat lock apart, I'm guessing I just got lucky but I just swapped two of the tumblers in it and now my ignition and seat key match! I didn't know that was even possible never mind that easy so thanks for bringing it up!

    Just found this video on how to do the fuel cap ... it doesn't look like there's any easy way to get the barrel out of it without machining the chrome cover off sadly, and as my fuel cap is a cheap replacement the key doesn't fit the standard locks so I can't make everything match that one either. But oh well, at least now I'm down to only 2 keys. I'll keep my eye out for an original fuel cap with a key but imagine I could be waiting a while!
     
  12. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    Mind blown also! Been around a long time and never seen this......WOW
     
  13. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    Years of working on cars, a lock is a lock

    Think you will find if you get the breather valve out the cap there will be a locking clip

    If not then a pin on the side, remember the thing was put together by someone, it must come apart

    Glad it worked for you, amazing how simple it can be


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
  14. shields17

    shields17 New Member

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    The Deox arrived this week so got round to giving it a go today. Not the best photos but here it is before I started

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I threw in a handful of nuts and bolts and gave it a shake around once half the solution was in to help agitate any loose flaking rust... already not looking forward to fishing them back out but hopefully they do some good. I also found the leak from my fuel cap is not the seal itself, but through the lock barrel so going to try and find a way to seal it up tomorrow and get the tank upside down for a bit.

    But here it sits now for "up to 24 hours"

    [​IMG]

    Are there any clever tips for getting the last litre or so out of the tank to speed up drying it out to minimise flash rust? Or do I just have to accept I wont get it all out and leave a hair dryer blowing through for a bit?
     
  15. Waylander

    Waylander New Member

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    I used a big syringe and a bit of windscreen washer hose, with the tank standing on its nose

    Only a tiny bit left then

    I can see it’s working already


    VF1000F2F, in bits
     
    shields17 likes this.
  16. shields17

    shields17 New Member

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    It definitely seems to be making progress around the filler cap already! Looking forward to seeing the results tomorrow.
     
  17. Jim McCulloch

    Jim McCulloch New Member

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    That DEOX stuff seems to be doing the job well. What are you going to coat the tank with when done?
     
  18. shields17

    shields17 New Member

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    I'm still torn on the liner at the moment. I've been reading up and there's a lot of conflicting stuff about each one it seems. There's also a lot of reviews/thoughts on the initial lining of the tank but not much on how it holds up 10 years down the line... maybe no news is good news here though? Your experience with RedKote is enough to keep me away from that. So it's between Caswell or POR15, but as long as the DEOX has cleared the tank properly then I'm probably only going to do it once I'm ready to do the full respray on the bike... some time next year I think.

    It's a bit of a cop out but I've got a busy period of being away for work a lot for the next few months and definitely don't want to rush doing the liner in between. I also don't want to miss all the good weather with the bike off the road so I'm just going to use the bike as is this year and then finish it up when winter comes back round.
     
  19. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    The best way I have found is: after rising, add a capful of 2 stroke oil then totally fill with petrol and then slosh it around....
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2021
  20. shields17

    shields17 New Member

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    Thanks Pete, how does the two stroke oil benefit it over just going straight for petrol? Is it just to help to get the tank covered again after being dried out?
     
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