Rapid Bike Racing Module Questions

Discussion in '6th Generation 2002-2013' started by owned, Jan 17, 2017.

  1. owned

    owned New Member

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    Hi,

    I'm doing some mods on my 2007 VFR800 and was thinking about getting a Rapid Bike Racing Module. My questions are:

    Does the unit come with a base map for my bike, or do I need to hook it up to the master software and upload the map to it.

    Does the unit need to be connected to both O2 sensors on the bike, and is there an order in which they get wired.

    Is it like a PCV with a wideband O2 sensor in that it auto tunes the fuel map. Does the Rapid Bike unit use your own O2 sensors to do the auto mapping and how accurate is this.

    Can it auto map the ignition settings.

    How easy is it to install and would I ever need to get it setup on a dyno.

    Thanks for any help in advance.
     
  2. RVFR

    RVFR Member

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    Ooo, a great question for CR, bet he chimes in sooner than later.
     
  3. owned

    owned New Member

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    I found this from a BMW S1000 RR forum. Looks like it answers a lot of my questions.

    "Yes. I do! I have the Racing Module with the pit-lane limiter and dual map switch on my track only 2012 S1000RR . It uses your stock O2 (Lambda) sensors to self adaptive tune while you ride. It's NOT like powercommander's AutoTune or Bazzaz AutoTune in which you have to log a ride and then apply the changes. I know this because I have used both. The Racing Module also has ignition mapping already done so no need to have dyno tuning done which is extremely hard on the bike to build an ignition map. Another feature that I absolutely love is the electronic engine braking control!!! Makes corner entry so much easier. It's all pretty much plug and play and no permanent modifications done at all.

    I'm loving it cause its always adjusting to the perfect AFR and I can hook it up to the software and actually see the changes its made as well as other features that are fully customizable!!! So when I change the air filter or something it automatically adjusts. No need to send her back to the dyno. Think about it; morning to afternoon weather changes, altitude changes, modifications to the motorcycle, always tuning itself to the perfect AFR!!!"


    Is this an accurate description, as if it is I'm starting to like it.

    This guy was using the wideband sensor kit, which I won't be. I'll be using the stock narrow band sensors, how much difference will there be between the wideband kit and the stock sensors?
     
  4. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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  5. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    I can tell you that Cycle Pro loads the appropriate base maps before shipping out the modules.

    The Rapid Bike Evo and Racing modules can be ran without any o2 sensors with o2 eliminators or you can plug into the 2 factory o2 sensors (order is important) or you can purchase the my tuning bike module(s) and run 1, 2 or 4 wide band o2 sensors.

    Rapid Bike Evo/Racing are a little more evolved than power commander+autotune. Power commander+autotune simply builds a map, for you to manually move over yourself, this is open loop tuning and will not tune in real time for current conditions. Rapid Bike tunes in real time (closed loop), to constantly modify mapping for current conditions/fuel/modifications. Again rapid bike can use the 2 factory narrow band o2 sensors or optional wide band o2 sensors. Wide band o2 sensors will be more accurate with faster data collection. I am running 4 wide band o2 sensors, for independent fuel mapping for each cylinder.

    Rapid Bike can not auto tune the ignition mapping (there is no knock sensor), but the racing module comes pre loaded with an ignition map that will be perfect for stock-mildly modified VFR800's and premium fuel. I would not touch the ignition map unless on a dyno and highly modified and or using exotic fuels.

    The install is not really any harder than a power commander install.

    You will not need any dyno tuning on a stockish VFR, but it certainly wouldn't hurt. If your funds allow it, you could build the maps on the dyno and set the closed loop tuning to a lower allowable percent like less than 5%. But unless you are highly modified, I would not bother with dyno tuning. A before and after dyno pull would be nice though.
     
  6. MooseMoose

    MooseMoose New Member

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    How does that work with multiple sensors. You have to buy a new my tuning module for each sensor?
     
  7. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    Unfortunately, for wide bands, yes.
    For the factory o2 sensors, no.

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
     
  8. owned

    owned New Member

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    Many thanks for the reply CR.

    I'm going to give it a go. I'll let you know how it goes.
     
  9. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    If you get a chance, do a baseline dyno pull before. Then later on do another dyno pull for an after please.

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
     
  10. owned

    owned New Member

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    I would love to but its going to be very difficult as there is only 1 dyno in the whole country and its a long way from me.

    I was planning to go to the dyno when I do a road trip around the country, so maybe in about 2 months when the rain stops. I will have the RB fitted by then, but what I could do is get the reset adaptor and do a dyno run with and without the reset adaptor. I take it that the rest adaptor goes in place of the RB uint and bypasses any effect the RB unit is having?. This would give me a dyno pull with and without the unit if it works this way.

    Might also be worth having the reset adaptor just in case I'm a long way from home and the RB unit fails.
     
  11. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    Yes that is correct and is a good plan.

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
     
  12. owned

    owned New Member

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    Cool.

    The RB unit should arrive next week. I'll let you know how it goes and until the dyno run I'll just have to give a seat of the pants description of the massive power gains ha ha.
     
  13. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    With the race unit, you should get some nice 2500-8000 rpm torque gains.

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
     
  14. owned

    owned New Member

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    That will be nice.

    I noticed a massive increase in low down power after I did the PAIR and flapper mod and put in a K&N air filter. I ordered a new K&N filter without opening up my air box only to find there was a K&N air filter already in there, but my new K&N filter is a lot bigger than the old K&N filter. The old one has a square of filter mesh in the centre, the new K&N filter I put in has mesh covering the whole area, and must have nearly double the air flow area. I didn't know K&N made 2 different types of filter, as they both have the same part number.

    After I did the mods the low end is really strong. Enough power to pull unaided wheelies around 3000 - 4000 rpm. It didn't do that before the mods. I do have a 15T on the front, so that might explain that a bit.

    I really want to get the RB just make sure the fuel mixture is correct and have some of that timing change goodness.

    Only other mods to the bike are some GPR deeptone slipons. I'm thinking about taking the CAT off, but can't be bothered really.
     
  15. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    It seems like KN finally had enough of my making fun of their filters and made a proper full size one, it's just weird that there was no mention/notes of them doing this and no part# change. Good for them though.

    If you have any extra money, go for the my tuning bike and youtune, that way you get an Air/Fuel gauge and can confirm in real time while riding, that your AFR is always spot on and the RB is working properly. I went with four My Tuning Bikes, which was total over kill and adds a bunch of complexity. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone unless they were racing competitively or had more time/money than sense lol. I only did it because I got a really a really good deal on everything for putting together the group buy. I am sure I picked up a few extra HP and extra smoothness/response, but I probably would have stuck to just one wide band if at full price.

    When I had a 15/46 sprocket kit, I could lift the front wheel off the ground from right off of idle, after adding the RB Racing.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2017
  16. SweViffer

    SweViffer New Member

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    Sorry for the thread resurrection, but I've got a question that fits here. How do you run the Rapid Bike Evo without the stock O2 sensors? Just unplug the outgoing (from RB) o2 connectors and put o2 eliminators on the stock harness to the ecu? And then uncheck autotune?

    My reason for doing this is fault elimination. I think I've got one or two boken o2 sensors, and want to ser if my bike runs better without them (less misfire).
     
  17. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    Yeah I think that is basically what I did before I installed the my tuning bike modules.
     
    SweViffer likes this.
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