Repack/tighten head bearings

In regards to torque specs, I received this from All Balls this morning;

This is in line with the advice given in many videos regarding tightening the bearings, which generally was tighten them down until you feel it binding slightly then loosen a little.

I know I will have to keep a watchful eye on my bearings, as the lower portion of the frame is missing most of the lip inside where the bearing race seats. I wish I had taken pictures, but if you feel inside the frame, there is a lip around the inside of the where the bearing race sits and this is was stops the race from going too far. A rather large portion of this is missing. There is enough to seat the race, but not much more. I am assuming that this is from the previous owner's accident where a Prius cut him off and hit him. Because sp much is missing and the stock race is incredibly skinny, it was actually pivoting because of it.

I am grateful in this case to have the roller bearings, because the race is a LOT more substantial than the ball bearing race. That on is SO skinny and has such a small space to dissipate the forces generated by the bike. It's magnitude of nearly three times more mass. How Honda thought a ball bearing setup is ok, is beyond me. Roller bearings have such a substantial advantage in ability to transfer forces into the frame instead of into the tiny stock bearing race. It is a huge difference! But I know they are cheaper, even tho at their level of purchasing power, it's probably almost nil.

Maybe the All Balls aren't the bestest in the world, but with proper care and and careful installation, I'd imagine that they will last a long time.

Now I need to figure out I want to go through the headache of changing frames. I know that it is best to have ALL of the bearing race seat. The down side is all of the work and no place to do it, the up side is getting everything cleaned and restored. For example, the front head/valve cover is coated in years worth of road grime that will probably need vapor blasted to remove, or a stronger chemical than what I want to use on an assembled bike. With 74, 400+ there is no value in it, even fully restored, so it is something I would really have to think about. The plus side would be a beautiful bike, the minus is things like trying to source OEM fairings etc. and the costs thereof.

 

This is from a CBR600, but it shows the part that is damaged on my bike. Notice the continual lip. I don't have that. I think this why the guy I bought it from only kept it for a couple of day. He is the service manager at Thousand Oaks Powersports and I suspect that he knew about this and dumped the bike. I obviously have no way of proving it, but he was in a hurry to sell it. He didn't even put the bike in his name.

 

Mine is in the shop as we speak getting the bearing replaced. I probably could have done this with help and using the manuals I had, but I just don[t want to do it. Where the shop will likely get this done in a couple hours, I know I would probably spend a couple days with the bike apart in my garage for me to do this.

I think I will change the wax sending unit next. I think I should be good with that. Might need to change out the vacuum hoses while I am at this area for what that will cost.

 

Changing the vacuum lines under my tank smoothed out my 6th gen. I think I'll add that to my list for this old girl...

 

I have been reading a few threads on people who seem to be experiencing similar issues to mine and among other things, two possible solutions that have surfaced is the Wax Sending Unit and the possibility of cracked vacuum hoses which both are easily understood in the high mileage and harsh weather I have ridden in over the years. So cheaper things get worked on first. Even if this does not remedy the issue, they are due for replacement anyway. Also if I have to take it in I can have them eliminate these fixes and not have to pay them for that.

 

Good idea, Randy, as there are some difficulties installing head bearings, namely, driving the lower inner bearing race off the steering stem and replacing the new one without nicking or damaging anything. Also, sitting on the floor with yer arms above your head and tapping in the lower outer race can be a pain. :crushed:

I'd (most here would) worry about the quality of any work done in any shop, so take the bike for a test ride when you pick it up and note any possible faults.

 

I just rode it home in absolute shitty weather so did not get a chance to check it out properly for handling. But when I get a chance, I will look it over and when the weather cooperates, I will take it out on the freeway and see how it behaves. Then a spirited ride through some school zone where I can practice carving between the errant little buggers running all around.

The stuff they took out really did not look that bad at all really. I was surprised.

 

I thought I'd update this thread since I've gotten to ride it done after doing this. My verdict is: Holy Sheep $hit, what a difference! I have a completely transformed bike! It is so flickable, regardless of speed. It's truly incredible. I've attached a pic of where I set my forks, I think that has some to do with it as well. Regardless, I feel like I am on a true sportbike, not a VFR, it's that major of a difference. I wish I could convey to you how it woke up my bike, simply amazing. Hanging off of the bike is soooo beautiful now, so much control and so simple to make small or large changes, if need be. Avoidng something in the road is child's play, flick, flick, all gone! I'm in love with how this bike handles now. This with the shimmed shock, what a fantastic change to how it feels!

Ignore the thumbnails, I had to correct the image direction.