Replacing brake and clutch fluid

Discussion in '8th Generation 2014-Present' started by James Bond, Sep 24, 2019.

  1. James Bond

    James Bond Member

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    Need simple instructions from anyone that's done this. Is a "speed bleeder" really necessary?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    If you are reasonably dexterous there should be no need to use a speed bleeder. Take the top off the reservoir. Make sure you don't allow the fluid level in the reservoir to drop too low that you suck in any air during the bleed process. Attach a drain hose (preferably a clear tube) to the nipple directed into a waste container (an old bourbon bottle works great, heavy base stops it tipping over!), apply pressure at the pedal or lever, crack the nipple and release the pressure, close the nipple, then release pressure at the pedal/lever. And repeat until you see nice, fresh-looking fluid coming out of the nipple/hose.

    If the reservoir has any muck in it, syringe out most of the fluid, swab out the reservoir carefully and then refill before doing any of the above.

    If you are working on a bike with linked brakes (you have a 5G in your profile pic) then the bleed process needs to be done in a specific sequence; RTFM!
     
  3. Laker

    Laker New Member

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    Well JB, I have the Speedbleeders and find the bleeding job to be quite easy, just open the nipple and pump until clean fluid passes through. You can get the set from wiremybike. Good luck.
     
  4. fink

    fink Member

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    No speed bleeders required. I use a 20mm syringe and a but of s(think) silicone hose and suck the fluid through but it also works if you pump and lock off normally. Keep master cylinder horizontal and covered.

    If you drain the system be aware you can trap air at the master cylinder banjo bolt.
     
  5. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom New Member

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    And know that it takes quite some time to bleed the slave... be sure that the tiny return hole is clear..
    Check by applying brake or clutch and when releasing it should make a little squirt
     
  6. James Bond

    James Bond Member

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    I got the job done. Not a hard job without a speedbleeder at all. I don't see the need for a speedbleeder. Kind of amazed at how much better both the brake and clutch feel improved. The clutch fluid was pretty dirty as was the reservoir. Brake fluid looked ok but wasn't OK based on better braking. Never will I let it go as long.
     
  7. OOTV

    OOTV Member

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    Yeah, although I have speed bleeders on all my bikes, their benefit is more or less in saving time. That being said, with the linked braking system and its multiple bleed points, this is where they shift from just being a time saver to being very helpful. Without a second person to lend a hand, being at two points of the bike simultaneously is difficult at best I.e. actuation and holding of the SMC and opening/closing the PCV bleeder. I was able to bleed my clutch and braking system on my 6 Gen in a matter of minutes solo.
     
  8. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    +1 to OOTV's note....

    Thats the thing.. agree we dont need no stinking speed bleeders.... Sure great, whatever.... but for about around the cost of a tank of gas, you get an aid which makes a near night and day difference in hassle of screwing with a bleeding job. Once you have them, its a Homer Simpson "Doh!" -- Oh shit, why didnt I get these earlier?
    Still wanna do it the hard way?
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2019
  9. mikem317

    mikem317 New Member

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    Speed bleeders on a VFR are a bit of an overkill since you can easily reach the calipers / slave cylinder and the controls. I bled the clutch and brake systems with just the factory bleeders and all went well.
     
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  10. Vasco Gama

    Vasco Gama New Member

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    Do you use a vacuum pump for the job or do it manually on the levers?
     
  11. James Bond

    James Bond Member

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    No, I just pump the fluid out of the system with the levers and add new fluid to the reservoirs as I push old fluid out into an empty water bottle. On the bottle, just cut a slit in the top side of it to push the drain line through to help hold it in the bottle. It helps to have an understanding wife be the third hand you need. It's just too easy to do without using another device. I have too many devices in my humble abode.
     
  12. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    Another brake fluid tip from mello dudes garage....
    Since the fluid is nasty shit that eats paint, you want to be extreemly careful screwing it. So on a new bottle I just punch nail holes in the foil cover,
    so I can have good control of the stuff as I pore it out...
    Obviously pour from one hole side... sloooowwwwlyy.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2019
    razedinabarn and Thumbs like this.
  13. Vasco Gama

    Vasco Gama New Member

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    How many hours/days did you spend pulling those levers? :p
     
  14. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    More than one way to do it. Speed Bleeders are great... threads are sealed so you don't get air leakage around the threads... their silicone tubing (or available elsewhere) is great for staying on the bleeder nipple. I've had mixed results with vacuum bleeders. Do this job annually and your brakes/clutch will be in top shape. Clean up with isopropanol.
     
  15. James Bond

    James Bond Member

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    I assume you're either being facetious (I saw the emoji) or you've never bled brakes and clutch fluid on anything. I took my time, cleaned both reservoirs, bled brake and clutch fluid in no more than 45 minutes....FWIW.
     
  16. James Bond

    James Bond Member

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    Good tip. DON'T get the fluid on your paint. Put an old towel over your fuel tank, bars, etc. that fluid might get on. Brake fluid is nasty stuff on paint.
     
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  17. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    Isopropanol is one of the best things to clean up any brake fluid (or oil) spills. Won't harm paint. I use it a lot.
     
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