Replacing Discs

Discussion in '6th Generation 2002-2013' started by gordyp, Feb 10, 2019.

  1. gordyp

    gordyp New Member

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    I’m currently doing a bit of a tidy up of my 2007 with 30,000 miles.

    Replacing pads, brake and clutch lines with steel braided, new CCT’s and powder coating the wheels etc.

    I’ve got new discs but on proper inspection the old ones are ok.

    Should I just sling the new ones on anyway and keep the old ones as spares?

    Wadya think?




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  2. fink

    fink Member

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    I’d stick the new ones back on the shelf and keep using the originals.
     
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  3. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    I'm totally the other way on this:
    You have the new brakes (& you got them for a reason) - stick them on.
    Put the old ones on the shelf - you may 'NEVER' use them...
     
  4. wiremanjon

    wiremanjon Insider

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    I'd sell the old ones to a fellow viffer that needs them and recoup some of the new disc costs.
     
  5. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    I say buy another new set. :Caked:
     
  6. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    I have over 135,000 miles on my OEM originals so you should definitely not need new ones unless they were damaged. Whether you use the new or replace the old is up to you. There may be good arguments either way. Thing is though. If you want to recoup some money, you will likely get little or maybe even no bites on the sale of used rotors. Understand though that you are not likely to get full value for your new ones either.

    You say you have or are going to re powder coat the wheels. I suggest that not only do you mask off the rotor bolt holes, you also look at the area where the rotor slips over the rim and tape that off as well. The rotor fitment is fairly close. I believe the thickness of the finished powder coat would create a need for you to force that rotor onto the wheel, thus possibly warping the rotor. I may have done that to mine. I get a shutter when I brake hard from high speed that I can't seem to work out of the bike. Thinking back, it may have developed in and around the time I had the wheels re-coated.
     
  7. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    Very good point, you shouldn't coat the front wheel hub centers where the discs seat and you also shouldn't coat the inside of the rear wheel where it contacts the hub. Any decent powdercoater can easily precision mask these areas. If the rotors still have a decent amount of service life left, and they are verified to be true, consider replacing the floating rotor buttons to see if that might solve your issue.
     
  8. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    Once a year I put a bolt through every bobbin with a nut on the other side. Then just using a single spanner rotate the nut ( tightening it) whilst spraying brake cleaner at the bobbin, until the bobbin turns freely & you don't get brake dust from it. Then move to the next bobbin. You will probably use a can of cleaner on the front wheel.
     
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  9. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    Oh to really make it work correctly I only use metric bolts...
     
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  10. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    FYI - if you have EBC rotors with the S-Drive system....you can't spin the bobbin.
     
  11. 25thVFR800

    25thVFR800 New Member

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    HI, just wondering have you ever replaced your stator or RR. I also have a 2007 and have not replaced either unlioke some other owners. Your CCT already meeds to be replaced. Are thye loud. Thxs
     
  12. SweViffer

    SweViffer New Member

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    Can you get metric bolts after Brexit? Or have you stockpiled so you're covered a couple of years?
     
  13. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    I have a source on the French Swiss Border... The Swiss aren't that fussy when it comes to taking money into their banking system - LOL
     
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  14. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    You better be using ti :Whistle:
     
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