Rogue's NC30 Project

With my 750 listed, it is time to move on. I am moving forward on the NC30 which was relatively "cheap". Supposedly ran..blah blah blah.

Wouldn't start, no fuel. Turned out to be the vacuum line had disappeared into the engine compartment never to be seen again.
Pulled the tank and pulled a little vacuum. Out comes the fuel. YAY.
Pulled bodywork, plugs, and timing cover. Rotated by hand and surveyed. A couple of plugs looked a little oily, but the other two were mint. The cylinder heads in the rear look good to me. I was rotating the engine without plugs by hand. A little light on effort to turn over, but I am only comparing the torque to my 700 and 750 experiences. The plugs are so small, that my Motion Pro compression tester doesn't fit. boo. Noted and need to find a new fitting.

Set up my standard "lets pour fuel everywhere" carb filling station, while charging the battery. Reinstall the plugs and double-check the coolant.
Fire in the hole!!

Choke on, a tiny throttle blip, and bam she is up and running. Popped for a little bit but once some of the old fuel gunk cleared out she could run up and down the lower rev ranges. Won't idle off choke, but all signs are positive and parts have been ordered to perform a solid carb cleaning.
Day one ended on a slightly concerning shut down. I thought maybe the battery wasn't charging and she just ran out of juice. Charge battery and try again tomorrow.

Day two was awesome. Stator is putting out 14.2 - roughly and the bike ran as long as I kept up the fuel filling.
All lights work, bodywork is a 8/10. Tires are flat but that could be valve stem issues. Fill and dunk this weekend.
All in all I am excited and actually can't wait to tear down the carbs..WTF is wrong with me..hahaha

oh and according to Grey400 site, this is a 1991 VIN.

 

none of this is true without pictures!


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Photos!

 

It's an exciting time on a "new" bike. Awesome.

 

Don’t think you radiator is dirty?
Finished sonic bath on radiator.

 

eewwwwww

 

I need to order some Mains. The way I read it is 122 for cylinders 2,4 (front) and 120 for 1,3 (rear). It did have 35s all around. The bike had 115 and 118. High altitude perhaps? Also does a shim under the needle a requirement for altitude. Looks like the manual says no shim.

 

Stock(ish) exhaust/instake, I would go 122/120/ 38 / shim. Being it's a non U.S. model, the pilot jets aren't likely totally lean, but you can future proof yourself and easily compensate with the pilot screws as needed.

What shims were in there, .5 or 1.0 mm? T

The RC36 comes with shims stock, but it doesn't list it in the specs, only shows it on the parts diagram. It is just part of the "Needle Set", a needle and shim.

 

No sale but that is ok. Just gets to stay in my mini collection and the bike is all buffed out and shiny!

On to more pressing matters. I contacted Tyga for jetting info and this is what I received.

"As for the NC30 jetting, I would say give it a try and see how it feels (122,120). Generally wouldn't need to go over #120 jets unless you had a pipe or had made some other modifications."

So I have 4 different avenues here. The bike is stock from what I can tell.

Currently has 118/115 35s.
Manual says 122/120 35's
Capt is at 122/120/ 38
Tyga is nothing over 120 with stock and no slow jet input.

Anymore input would be welcome. So far I like Capts approach. The bike was backfiring when it was running and wouldn't idle without throttle or choke applied. Needs more fuel would be my highly scientific theory..lol

Best source for jets?

 

I suggest shooting an email to Rick Oliver.

Rick Oliver NC30/NC35 - Parts, Spares, Conversions and Advice

I can't really offer any specific advice, as my current jetting is substantially different from stock and wouldn't be at all helpful.

 

I'm running FactoryPro jet kit and smooth as butter shift kit in my 96 VFR.
I believe he has NC 30 kits...
http://www.factorypro.com/

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I originally purchased a Factory Pro jet kit for my NC35. It came with a different needle for each cylinder. No way I was going to monkey around with that.

 

my VFR runs fantastic and was worth the work. It runs as good as the newer fuel injected models!!

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120/120/38 then I guess. How is coolant distributed? From the center into each head or thru one head to the other? (Like the Hawk)

https://www.jetsrus.com/

The best? idk.... But been damn good in the many times I've ordered. Fast processing and shipping.

 

Coolant is similar to the 700/750 cross tube. Time to order some parts.

 

Subframe removed for powder coat and making a list for cmsnl and others. Questioning if I have the skill to adjust these valves.

 

Also found my rear tire leak.

 

Thanks for the Rick Oliver connection NorcalB. I have seen his name across the web, so I finally sent a message about this situation. Couple days later he hooked me up with some solid direction and information.

 

These are the specs I am going with. Which means I only really needed the o-ring kit. I bought jets anyway since Tyga recommends changing for the full exhaust on the 35. Thanks again NorcalBoy for the link!

 

These are the carb oring kits I got from Lite Tek in Thailand. Affordable and recommended by Tyga for quality. Shipping was free and took 6 working days to arrive USPS.