Rogue's VF500 rebuild or part out!!

I think Captain shared that link with me a while back, so thank him, hah. Congratulations, you just completed the best quality of life modification you can make on a VF500F!

 

ColdD, did you use aftermarket carb seal kits from ebay or something better?

 

I've used two kits from Billy's Outback in the past. They were awesome. Everything you need along with extras. Full set of stainless steel allen bolts and all the little clips to hold the linkage together. Then his site disappeared for for a while and it said he closed up shop. Then it came back, and there are products listed for sale, but it's not the same kits. And good luck getting a hold of him now--I've tried.

I'm absolutely certain you could source all the bits individually for cheaper--but it was just mighty convenient. He also included a DVD with a bunch of VF/VFR manuals (i hosted them on dropbox and posted them in the stickied thread on this gen board), and it also included a print-out with pictures and quantities of what everything was.

Joe at V4Dreams has some things available--though it's more focused on the 750. He lists some VF stuff there though. I've been going back and forth with him a bit this week and am having some gaskets and orings sent here.

I should probably just try to put together a buy list of the things his kits used to have. I'll see if I can find that printout in my old parts bags.

 

JetsRUs has carb rebuild kits at $33/each which is a pretty penny. You're getting new float valve seats and needles with it though. https://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/KL_18-4939.html

That still leaves you with needing the fuel pipe orings though. And as you mentioned you just found out--the generic viton oring assortment ones you can pick up at the hardware store don't have the right ones. At least the kits I've bought. I'm willing to bet if you message V4Dreams he'll have them for $6 shipped to your door.

 

Rogue... what do you actually need? Usually it's just the fuel cross overs and float bowls.

Yes... sourcing just what you need individually is WAY cheaper. Here's the fuel tube o-rings

https://www.oringsandmore.com/fkm-o-ring-7-x-2mm-minimum-10-pcs/

Let me verify my number for the float bowls if you want. I can give you the vent tube o-ring number too.

I have NEVER replaced the float valves or seats in a VF/VFR. I have done DOZENS of carbs (mine and others people's) and never had an issue. The only time I read about an issue is when somebody uses the shitty replacements that come in a "kit". I know there are good exceptions out there, I've just never had to find them.

Spin the rubber tip in rag with a little LACQUER THINNER between you finger and thumb. It will be really black the first time. Do it a couple more times. Polish the valve seat with a q-tip and some metal polish, and then clean thoroughly.

The other thing, I never have to change the float height unless some hack has been in there. They have no idea how to properly check / set float height and fuck it up.

 

Currently it looks like fuel cross over tubes. I am concerned about the air idle mini o- rings ( not fuel related I understand). Going to do an individual carb leak down tomorrow to see how float bowls are doing.

Here is what was and what it came with. What it came with might be right but I only have 3.
Was off and came with reinstalled.

 

I may need to get some new plenum orings as well. One looked torn.

 

I need to dig out some 86 carbs and re-aquaint myself I think.

Any way... if you clean the plenum "o-rings" good, you can simply use some Hondabond and save yourself some money and hassle.

 

Today was a little science day, or at least tough science for me.
1. Test each carb to find what is leaking.
With 80 ml of fuel and a small syringe. Placed the fuel tube with the supposed correct oring in position and fill the carb while blocking off the main fuel “in” port. This will test everything but the fuel line theory. Carb 4 holds fuel yessss! On to the next carb!
2. Remove orings in question and measure each. I believe I found their equivalent on McMaster Carr. This would be the mini pilot o-ring and the fuel tube oring in this case unless my leak downs provide more leaks.

pictured:
Fill red arrow.
Block green circle

oh and then drain out the normal carb drain to verify proper function. Seems solid practice, let me know if I am missing the obvious.

Yellow look for leaks as well as anywhere else.

 

Also made a gravity fed fuel tank for getting an old Yamahar running. Hells yeah, doin shit!

 

So I measured, calculated and came up with these o-rings for the fuel tube and pilot screws. Just finished an individual leak down with the fuel tube installed and it would appear this oring will work perfectly. I think I nailed the pilot as well.

I also needed to adapt the fuel tank to carbs with the inclusion of a fuel filter that wasn’t too big (. 1/2” fuel filters are huge). So I found a nylon reducer that goes from 5/16” ( carb side) to 1/2” ( tank side). This way I can run a 5/16” filter.
O-old N-new

 

Yea, those 1/2" filters are huge. I don't have any experience with the gravity-fed VF; however, I kind of want to convert mine.

Will that restriction of flow cause running issues of fuel starvation? The reason I ask is because I tried to splice in a 1/2" filter on my Suzuki Bandit, and it was just too damn big. I put in a smaller one similar to how you did, and I wasn't getting enough fuel flow. It may have been due to my choice of filter. But a common theme with the Bandit was that people installing inline filters (instead of just relying on the petcock filter) were experiencing fuel starvation issues.

 

I am not sure how it is all going to work. I will do a test with flow today now that you raise that concern. I kinda just figured, since I am missing the in-tank filter that my flow would not be too constricted with this guy. Unfortunately, I am a ways away from running it would appear. I will update later with just the in-line filter later today.

 

I ran my VF500F race bike gravity feed from an 86 tank/petcock, reduced down to 85 carbs (fuel inlet on left front carb) with zero issues. And that was on very little fuel for sprint races with plenty of WFO. Never had any starvation issues. BUT... no inline filter, just the petcock strainer.

 

Fuel filter is high flow. Almost as fast as I pour down a 5/16 fuel hose. Leak down going well! My new fuel tube O-rings working well. The slight yellow color in the funnel is standing fuel. No loss as of yet. Bucket has no fuel building up in it either. Schweeet!

I also replaced the vent tube orings and pilot screw o-rings.

I set the pilot screw to 2-1/4 turns out. Book says 2 but that is listed for the 84/85. Should I go to 2 turns as well?
I don’t really have an understanding of those turns out to running correlation.

 

The screws are metering fuel for starting and idling mostly. And will affect a little bit just off idle too.

What pilots jets are you running? If you went up from stock, then you shouldn't need more than 2 turns out.

Good job too, by the way.

 

95s, 92, and 40s all around. I will go back down to 2 out. Thanks Capt!
Missing springs installed as well as the plenum. Secondary leak down just in case, in progress. Looks good so far. I am going to sync next since everything is holding fuel.

 

While I was waiting for health related leave I decided some garage time was needed.
Spring cleaning while I wait. Detailed all the removed parts

 

Hoping this weekend is valve clearance check and the cleaning of all things rearward.

 

Pulled rear shock and cleaned swing arm area. Cleaned and inspected chain and sprockets. Still decent life on sprockets, chain could use a little more flexibility. Most likely clean it with fuel late today to beak down the old ick. Both rims cleaned up real nice and don’t require much beyond a little touch up on the rear wheel. This is not a full nut and bolt job so I am not going the extra extra mile like the VFR750.

Valves to be adjusted right now. .006” for all is what my manual has. Hope that is correct as manual covers various years.