Rogue's VF500 rebuild or part out!!

DONE. valves have been adjusted using the duel gauge method. .006” all around. Clean up and button up.

I have seen videos and other posts with various measurements. Here is what I have on board right now. I think .006” must be the spec. These are all in that neighborhood. Gonna stop by the hardware store and look for a 3mm square socket before I attempt to adjust. Thanks ColdD for the yeeew toob vid.

 

Update! So many little things complete.
Carbs installed
Radiator installed
Foot peg brackets powder coated and installed
Shitty rattle can removed from OE muffles and installed
Rear end detailed

one question, I killed the little breather separator s I am running tubing direct from crank case to air box. Anyone see a problem with this? I placed my drivers to highlight end to connection

 

Random clean up photos.

 

Loving your work!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Looking clean man!

I don't think removing the breather/collector is going to make too much of a difference--but that's a guess I can't back--hopefully someone else can give you some good advice. I'm fairly certain I've worked on several bikes that have nothing similar, but maybe there's different air box designs. I know I collect very little gunk at all when I open that little exit cap up at the end of the season.

 

The only thing I can think of is that every bike I have that does not have a separator, it's totally down hill from the air box to a spigot.

Im not looking at one of my 500 right now, but if the exit off of the crankcase goes down at all before heading up to the air box, a pool of gunk could form in the tube and possibly affect the breathing.

In that case a simple T at a designated low spot with one more tube going down with the plug in it would give me piece of mind. Wouldnt need to be as big of hose either.

 

Questions before I go mad? ALL CAPS IF I FIGURED IT OUT.

Does an 86 require a fuel pump? Manual doesn’t say anything about 86. NO - yay

Did I put these coils in wrong because my fuel tank petcock won’t clear all the coils. GOT IT, I WAS MISSING THE RUBBERS UP FRONT AND A LITTLE NUDGE ON THE COILS MAKES IT FIT.

They bike will only run for a couple revolutions on its own and then stalls. Choke only seems to hurt. Adding throttle only hurts. ColdD recommended checking idle adjustments. Sure enough, but now she idles crazy high with no throttle or choke.

All input is welcome. I feel like I missed something on the carbs.

coils:

cylinder breather hose

 

86 you're gravity-fed. No fuel pump.

If choke is hurting it, it's possible you have the idle set Wayyyyyyyy to high. I did that exact thing when firing the 700 for the first time a few weeks ago. It'll fire hard for about 3 seconds then die. Back it way off and try it again if you're not certain where it should be set.

 

So now she wants to rocket to the moon with no choke or throttle while stone cold. I definitely fucked up the idle settings. Time to pull carbs I suppose. do no leaks count as a win?
You were 100% ColdD. But I need to figure out what set incorrectly.

 

Before you pull em completely, make sure that the throttle cable isn't binding up and not allowing it to go all the way closed. You've got adjustments both at the carburetor and at the right handlebar--so check both.

The other time I've gotten something similar is when I really botched a bench sync. I couldn't get it to idle below 4k. If it's not your throttle cable binding or the idle set screw set too high, my money is on carbs way out of sync. If you do pull them, I'd give that another go just to rule that out.

 

100%. Nothing is more infuriating than a leak! That's a victory.

 

after working on carbs set the initial idle speed adjustment screw by backing it off until screw just stops touching, then screw 1 turn in. will need further adjustment to get proper idle after running=1200 rpm.

shouldn't need more than 20 seconds with choke on.

 

Thanks dudes. It is now super bowl time, so next weekend for this follow up. Can’t say this wasn’t frustrating but the bike did actually run so there is hope!

 

Couple late comments:

Breather hose looks like it should be no problem with out the catch tank.
No leaks def counts as a partial win.
Do your throttle cables have any slack at the throttle housing?

 

If I get home early today, then I will check the throttle cable connections. Overall the throttle cable is a little loose at the carb fitting, but it does seem correct.

Thankfully these carbs are cake to get into position compared to the 750 so I am not dreading the reinstall if I need to pull them out again.

I have to redo my fuel hoses anyway. I placed them with a central position from the fuel tank, when I really need them to run straight into carb 1 and T off to carb 3.
I am also going to take a photo of my idle screw and see what you dudes think.

Super appreciate the feedback from all of you!! The super bowl was ehhh. but it is 1 of my 2 days of the year to drink a beer, put my feet up, and eat whatever without any guilt ( always self inflicted). My wife makes a mean Beer Can Chicken!! She is the best!

 

Cool. Let us know what you find.

I could take or leave the Super Bowl. But if I'm home, sure whatever. Wife made a KILLER chili and cornbread. But she had to study, so it was just a buddy and me watching in the shop, glancing at VFRs. I did win $200 for the 4th Qtr / Final score tho. Hah!

 

Yewwwwwww!wish video worked. She is a purrin!

 

Idle is still high with full slack in cable. Idle adjuster is not touching either. It was running great until I blipped the throttle. Grrr throttle cable feels like it is snapping closed. All carbs appear to be equally synced, just high idle.
Any other items of interest I should look at or pull the carbs again and check something that I am unaware of?
Just a question but is the first carb butterfly permanent in its location? Can that be adjusted?All of the butterflies are covering the top most hole in the throat. Should they be below that hole? Hope this makes sense. No air leaks that I can find.

also ran more normal before it warmed up.

 

Sounds like you have a massive intake air leak. Especially since it shot up after warm and the first blip, classic symptom.

Were these CA carbs? I can't remember. Confident you didn't roll over a boot lip on assembly?

Do the carbs go in crazy easy? Sure you don't have 84/85 intake boots with 86 carbs? They are way easier to find and way cheaper than 86.

Sorry, throwing shit out there. I've read and followed this whole thread, but I didn't go back and fact check my questions.

Base throttle plate is positioned by the throttle screw. If backed out, it is ( or should be) closed.