Speed&Temp

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Xrust, May 20, 2017.

  1. Xrust

    Xrust New Member

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    Hi Guys,

    small question, I'm little bit confused -

    let say my cruising speed aprox 110 - 140 km. The Temp = 77 - 78C. It's Ok, I guess.

    Then if I up to 160 km and upper speed , Temp extremely growing too. Not to 110C when Fan starting to work, but very close. I can't keep mentioned speed more 160 long period of time. Is it Ok for VFR (VTEC 2004). Or I should visit my mechanic?

    Thanks a lot in advance !
     
  2. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    Hi,

    Please introduce your self & your bike, however my 2008 is happy'ist at 160 - lol
    when was it last serviced & when was the coolant last changed.
     
  3. Xrust

    Xrust New Member

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    Hi,
    My VFR RC46 2004. Coolant changed last year. Service as usual passed twice a year: spring - autumn (oil, filters, check etc)
    IMG_5833.jpg

    Seems I have a problem :(
     
  4. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    Invest in a new radiator cap, it does more than keep the coolant in, it regulates pressure in system too. If too low will cause coolant to boil at a lower temp.

    Nice looking bike!
     
  5. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    Hello Xrust and Welcome to the madhouse :welcome:.

    I am sure you know these bikes run hot. But if its getting hotter than normal, check you can hear the cooling fan running when its over 100+ .

    Also check coolant system for level and potential airlocks. The plumbing for the twin radiator set-up means that when topping up or replacing the coolant the bike may need to be carefully leant over to either side to fully clear out any trapped air. Check both radiators warm up - if only one side warms then you may have a jammed thermostat. If temperatures get really high very quickly it could be a head gasket.

    Sorry lots of things to check - I hope you get it sorted.


    SkiMad
     
  6. ridnout

    ridnout New Member

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    +1 on the cap.

    When changing my coolant, I had the most dreadful experience trying to dredge out an air in the system. I then removed the cap and made sure the coolant level in the reservoir was at full. I then left it alone to cool overnight. When returning in the morning, the cooling of the system drew the coolant inside the block and purged the air. That was identified with the coolant level in the reservoir at the minimum level instead of the maximum. Filled to the top level, and no more air hiccups.

    Was right up there or worse with purging air from a Nissan's cooling system. The easiest for me have always been GMs, but Mazdas with four or five bleed points, it is easy peasy.

    On a side not, I changed to EngineICE for better or worse.
     
  7. Xrust

    Xrust New Member

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    Hi Guys!

    Thanks a lot for your help! The problem was found in left radiator , upper part where temp sensor stands. Exactly behind this pipe airblock found. :) Next time I'll be ready.
     
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