Stator burnt after 300km

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by GalwayVFR, Jun 15, 2020.

  1. GalwayVFR

    GalwayVFR New Member

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    Hi guys,
    I'm new here and looking for some advice. I read a few threads on common stator/RR failures. My problem seems to be different.
    I have a VFR 800 2006.
    The original stator burnt at 50000km, which is decent. It was replaced with an aftermarket one by the mechanic. The new stator burnt after 300km.
    There is 100% nothing wrong with the R/R, it's been well tested. All the connections look good (not burnt) .
    It's just that this stator burnt really quickly (300km)
    I found a mechanic that is getting a good quality stator. I'm wondering if it's going to keep burning after a few hundred km.
    Could it just be a faulty new stator ? Is that something common ?
    Thanks lads
     
  2. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    Do you still have the OEM R/R type? I'd suggest retrofit with a mofset if that's the case, and take some load off that stator.
    I'm no expert, but I'm not sure how one could adequately test an R/R.
     
  3. wiremanjon

    wiremanjon Insider

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    You want a Shindengen 847A from Roadstercycle.com . You want a factory OEM stator. Solder the wires direct on the Stator to rectifier connections. Get the wiring kit with 12" of extra wire like it says on the Roadstercycle site. Finally purchase a mounting plate from Mellodude here on VFRWORLD. send him a PM and all your troubles will be in the past. I'd also mount a voltmeter for peace of mind. If you take my advice you'll only do this once.
     
    mello dude, raYzerman and skimad4x4 like this.
  4. BikerSte

    BikerSte New Member

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    Hello Galway VFR,

    Having been through all of these problems on my own 2002 VFR800-vtec. I would ask you to buy and fit the upgrade for the wiring harness. It can be purchased from the site listed below. It's called the "VFRNESS". After fitting one onto my bike the over heating wiring loom issue has been fixed. WIthout it the loom melts making poor connections all over the bike and the stator burns.

    You should also do the blue connector fix. It the earth wire on the blue connector located on the left hand side of the motorcycle. Bypass the green earth wire on the connector with another wire to make a better connection.

    Best of luck.

    https://www.wiremybike.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_17&products_id=266
     
  5. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    To be blunt I don't think VFRNess is going to help. - Just get a Roadstercycle RR + extra wire as recommended earlier and install a Genuine Stator. The stator and battery on these bikes tends to be the victim of the cheapo RR going south. When you fit a decent stator and RR - obviously check thoughoughly for any melted connectors/fuses, fix as necessary and you should be good to go

    When these electrical gremlins created havoc with early VFR models, a lot of people noticed melted connectors hence some people concluded the wiring was not thick enough to carry the current - hence VFRNess was devised as a nearly plug and play solution. Unfortunately it has not proved to be the solution, and virtually no one bothers with it. The RR is the villan of the peace and when it starts messing about it is quite capable of killing the stator too.

    Anyway by the time we got to the 2006+ 6th Gens, the actual wiring had been upgraded by Honda, but still issues happened so clearly beefing up the wiring is NOT the answer.

    Inherently the problem was that Honda cheaped out on the charging system fitted to VFRs and loads of other Honda models of same vintage. They only really fixed with the 7th and 8th Gen models.

    If you search for dead stator on CBF's and fireblades and you will find loads of threads reporting similar gremlins and basically the same advice being issued - (1) Fit a decent RR from Roadstercycle with the extra 12 inches wiring and (2) if your stator has also died always replace with a genuine Honda stator.

    Basically people eventually realised that most failures occured in hot weather (hence places like California have been plagued with these failures). When the RR overheats it can cause one or more diodes in the RR to fail and depending on what diode(s) fail you could start feeding AC into a system designed for DC or end up feeding 60+ volts into circuits designed for a nominal 12. At that high current, headlamp bulbs will blow, batteries will boil dry and connectors and fuse housings will start to melt possibly shorting internally as they are not happy carrying 5x intended voltage and if any pairing of the phases ever cross connect your stator is a gonna.

    PS do not touch aftermarket stators - there are too many tales of hopeless quality control and you were lucky to get 300km from one. Lesson learned = buy cheap buy twice.

    PPS yes my RR killed my stator, but the bike has worked faultlessly since installing a Roadstercycle RR and new Honda stator.



    SkiMad
     
  6. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    SkiMad.

    Your responses are always well presented and I am sure, appreciated by more than just me. You can always be counted upon to provide us peons with a very clear and concise response to problems we encounter and sometimes cause ourselves. Please keep it coming. You are a valued asset to this forum.
     
  7. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    Ditto what skimad says.... then it will be fixed properly. Don't have to go the full 847A R/R, the 020 is OK too in my opinion for what it's worth. Both bring you into the current century. Current, get it... I'm so punny.
     
  8. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    I'm running the FH020aa on my 5th gen. It's does a steady 13.8 volts idle, and 14.1- 14.4 volts rolling down the road. Can't justify changing it, but IF it ever gives up ghost, I'll work on getting the 847 and figure out a mount scheme in the stock position.

    _----------------------
    Crazy thought.... I have a fairly good idea how to pull off a 5th gen mount plate design for the 847 in the OEM position........if someone would let me borrow theirs, I'll get it done, you get a free mount, and I get a confirmed design.....any takers?
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2020
  9. BikerSte

    BikerSte New Member

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    Hello Skimad,

    Ahh, if the loom is different I also say you're right too.

    Ste
     
  10. Camp

    Camp New Member

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    Been doing alot of reading on this subject as I'm in preventative maintenance mode here. I just purchased a Roadstercycle SH847 kit with mount and wire lengths for my 08 which CURRENT(ly) snk. Has a VFRness installed.

    My query is is it worth keeping the extra nest of VFRness wires installed anyway? I do use the switched purple wire to drive the PDM60. Will that wire even be active after replacing the factory plug to the RR?

    Any thoughts appreciated.
     
  11. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    With the Roadstercycle kit the Vfrness is not needed. And btw- I have 6th gen VFR specific mount plate kits for the 847 RR ..(FH020AA too)
    You could skip that contraption Roadstercycle calls a mount.....
     
  12. wiremanjon

    wiremanjon Insider

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    Definitely get Mello Dudes bracket, I had to hack off the corners of the RoadsterCycle 4 way bracket. If you ordered it, youll need to do the same and the rectifier will be facing down instead of towards the back. Mellow Dudes solution is much nicer. I have posted an entire pictorial of how I did the rectifier install. I can't remember if it is on here(vfrworld or VFRDiscussion or both). There's a good Youtube video now by a guy called KEVS SHED that's a good tutorial and to answer your question about the PDM60(I have no idea what that is) all the wiring that originally went to the old rectifier will still be live and have voltage on it, so probably no worries there.
    IMG_6179_1580710294189.JPG
     
  13. wiremanjon

    wiremanjon Insider

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    "which CURRENT(ly) snk."------What's SNK mean?
     
  14. wiremanjon

    wiremanjon Insider

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  15. wiremanjon

    wiremanjon Insider

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  16. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    I cringe every time I see that Roadstercycle mount contraption... gawd.. how many products have you bought that you have to fix before it will work.

    Looks like I need to get posting.... mello dudes Lazar Works.......
     
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  17. Camp

    Camp New Member

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    Snk, short for snicker at tge "current" pun... Oops..."short", "current" snicker!

    Joking aside, I don't mind modifying or even making a mount and time is an issue, i have 1 week, next week to cram all my living into before back on the road for 6-10 weeks. I have alot on my STD list. (Shite to do).

    The PDM60 is a programmable solid state power distribution module (fuse box). Does all kinda neat stuff.
     
  18. wiremanjon

    wiremanjon Insider

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    Lol. It's true. Missed it by this much! I was pretty disappointed that I had to literally become a hack!
     
  19. mello dude

    mello dude Member

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    May as well post up the wiring diagram for the RR upgrade.....
    [​IMG]
     
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  20. BikerSte

    BikerSte New Member

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    Hello,

    I say, If you have a "vfrness" on the bike and you have no charging problems leave it on the bike. The regulator is steaming hot! Leave it on it, it's a bonus.
    My bike old 2002, great condition VFR800 was off the road without it., it can't hurt.
     
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