Stray7Hundie Rebuild ?!

FUCKING HUGE PET PEEVE OF MINE. JFC PEOPLE.

They have obviously never actually BOUGHT anything. I love getting forks with the ends poking out of the box made out of multiple diaper boxes. Or wheels with the bearing centers rubbed thru on both sides. Recently bought a set 4 gear driven cams, wrapped in newspaper, not taped up, loose in a box. No fucking bubble wrap. Luckily it only had to go across the state. Don't think they would have survived other wise.

Anyway... this rant is over. Glad it looks usable Rogue. It was a decent deal.

 

JFC indeed! I can't believe they sent either of those items without proper packaging. Maybe they will get shipping charma. lol

Oh wait, I forgot to mention. The dude wrote "handle with care". UPS.."hell yah we got another one" kick, throw, punch.

 

V4dreams.com close up shop? I can't locate his site on the webs.

 

Worked for me

https://v4dreams.com/index.html

 

hahaha, i bet the word dreams keeps me locked out.
verified...work has put the clampdown on certain phrases and words. hahah I wonder what other people are looking at now.

 

Ordering up jets.
Had 38s and 118 all around
Going to 40s and 125 all around sound appropriate for stock exhaust?

40s and 125s ordered. If you order direct from 6sigma it would be $140 for those. If you look on ebay they (6sigma) have preset kits (needle shim included) for $50 shipped. WTH

 

40s + 125s installed. Just waiting on my O-ring kit from V4D.
Upon further review, cylinder 1,3, and 4 had clogged pilots (?). The 38s. They are sonic bathing for clean never to be used stock?

how many shims should I place under the needle?

 

one is usual, depends upon testing results, raise for midrange adjustments.

 

One .5mm is reasonable in every situation. When you start getting ridiculous you compress the little spring too much and the needle can't "float" anymore and wears unevenly fast.

 

^^ Cool. It already had a .5mm shim under each. Can't wait for my V4D parts!!

 

I'm wondering about the jet sizes. In my FJ I use the original jets, no needle shims, stock air filter and housing with two Leovince mufflers (originally build for a 2005 Speed Triple). Behind the headers I mounted a wide-band lambda-tester to check the a/f ratio. The result is a ratio at 12,8-13 at full throttle and very fine throttle response.
In our german forum a member build an 86 interceptor-race-bike with a hindle 4-1, a hrc-spark unit and stock carbs with impressive results. Where's the benefit of bigger jets?

 

In my case, I don't have a way to check my A/F ratio other than:

- My plugs look absolutely perfect, slight even tan color. I am running a K&N filter with the snorkel removed and a 4-2-1 exhaust with a thru race baffle.
- Butt dyno. It fucking runs perfect. Starts instantly. Pulls hard and clean throughout the rev range without any discernible holes or dips.
- Doesn't tend to run on the hot side, but never smells rich to me or anybody behind me.

I've duplicated my setup (with some very slight tweaks) on my other bikes. They start and run tits. I am in the U.S. Pacific Northwest, do most of my riding pretty close to sea level and our temperatures here are typically pretty mild. Lots of nice dense air.

Everybody's bike and location is different. If it works for me and I like it and don't feel like it has drastically affected my fuel economy (it hasn't), that's all that matters to me. I'm sure all day at a Dyno would point to some changes, but I don't think I'm very far off for my situation. And I don't feel I have any reason to do that (and spend the money) because I'm not having ANY problems that need fixing.

 

Leak down has every carb leaking from the interior of each carb inlet(?) to cylinder head. Float bowls?

 

either leaky float needles or woefully inaccurate float setting.....or bad bowl gaskets. setting the carbs on brown cardboard is best for finding leak locations.

 

I am thinking leaking float needles. I will need to inspect the float seats. The needles looked alright, but I will inspect those again. The leak is right down the portion of the carb where the butterfly sits, but from above the butterfly.

 

you could clean seats with q-tips and green scotchbrite, but they usually are fine; it's the needle tips that cause problems. if you see a ring with a depressed area near the tip, that one needs replacement.

its ok to order needles only (K&L) as the seats will still be good.

 

^^^ Thanks SM.

The needles and seats removed, inspected, tested, cleaned, tested again and reinstalled. Test consisted of just the seat and needle with Isopropyl alc. Gave each needle a little bit of fuel while sitting around so the iso won't dry up the viton.
Nothing obvious. The seats sealed just fine. No depressed rings, they all look pointy and semi soft. The needles slide easily in and out.

I think I set the floats to 7mm. But that was the setting for my 750. Maybe these are 9mm. I will look online pdf manual for specs. There was still fuel in each float chamber and none in the pan. Would that mean things maybe settled from dry to wet and started sealing? I will adjust floats tomorrow evening and refuel up.

thanks in advance.

 

Since I don't have a manual and can't seem to find the download online I will go with SquirelMan comment from my 750 thread.

9mm=less fuel in bowl than 7mm.
bible says 9mm for '86 carbs, 7mm for later, like yours. no real explanation why.
i've made gauges for 7, 8, and 9mm settings, helps alot for consistency.

Maybe this is why I had so much fuel leak out, only for the carb to retain fuel in each bowl later that day. I think the o-rings also swelled back to original size with fuel added. I will set to 9mm and see how the leak down goes.

 

float gauge

 

creepy.. lol