Stray7Hundie Rebuild ?!

The update nobody wanted.
Brought the bike to work to weld the exhaust together. We shall see how that goes. Set the floats to 9mm last night and will perform a leak down this evening.
It is going to be a fine line between making a sellable working moto and selling junk for parts. Today will be the 1st step in determining all of that.

 

cliff hanger..................

 

Ahhhaaa! So reset to 9mm and removed the large cap that may have been keeping pressure on the carb vent (?) lines. Voila!! No leaki no mo. I could be talking out my ass because I still don't "get it". I think I mistakenly plugged the smaller T lines from ambient air and that may have caused pressure in the carb bowl. Enough to kick fuel down past the butter fly (that is possibly why there was still fuel in each bowl after they leaked enough out to reduce pressure).

Even if that is not the proper description, the carbs are holding fuel and I believe ready to put back on. Welding went well. We have a welder in house at my work now and since I spent my welding money on a Tuono he was more than awesome in getting my OE exhaust back together. Pictures tonight before I clean the mufflers so I can have a before and after.

I also received my 4th isolator from Honda distro. So hopefully for $300 + some serious cleaning and rattle can will get me a sellable running 700. It will need a seat cover...dangit $350 ish.

Those smaller "cross Ts" are for carb venting or something else? Glad you were on the edge of your seat SM!

The tubes I speak of are labeled "air tubes" in the 86 750 manual. These vent to ambient correct?

 

They are the vent tubes. Need to be vented to atmosphere. Usually the tube is just pointed down held by a clamp on the right rear diaphragm cap.

 

now for some cleaning.

 

none of that makes any sense at all. plugged vent lines produce vacuum, not pressure.

 

Fuel pump relay? so I had the bike running and then the fuel pump stopped. This is a different pump than was originally on the bike. I put the other pump on red and this one also ran on lil red. Must be a bad relay?

the object before has blk, blk/blu, and a red wire going to the coil. Looks semi janky. I believe peeps mentioned jumping blk-blu/ blk combo. Gonna research again and jump later this week.

 

pump relays fail more often than pumps

 

My pump failed after 64,000 miles … it had a good life


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^^ Noted. That was on your VF1000xx( R? ) right 6? Was stranded and parked behind a building.

 

its a F ... and yes it stranded me in Julian California.... I put it behind a church for safe keeping. The Big Guy upstairs kept an eye on it for me!

 

if god cares about people why is the pope in a wheelchair ? thats no way to treat his business manager.

 

Not my place to answer that and honestly I don’t give a rats ass.
As long as my big interceptor was there the next day.
Yewwwwww!


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You guys are funny. I didn't mean to start a religious debate. lol

The takeaway is that the F got home in one piece.

 

No debate … just good clean fun !

Yea new pump installed… all is right as rain .


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So after examining the VFR750 RC24 FSM, the relay should have 3 wires going to it. BL, BL/BLU and Y/G.
My bike has a wire jumped from the coil (red) with just a raw pin connected to my relay. And..and I have a Y/G from the harness free floating with no obvious connector to match up to it.
So can I assume that the previous owner made a mistake while trying to get this bike going and ran a lead from the coil to the relay and just left that Y/G floating around or am I the dumbass assuming the 700 and 750 use the same layout? The relay is not the same form factor as my 750 but they are several years apart. I will pull open the 750 and compare tonight as well as jump the sucker and see what I get.

 

Previous owner just made a mistake. Jumping the BL & BL/BLU wires on the harness side tricks the bike into thinking the ignition system is operating and the pump will operate. With the Y/G hooked up in the correct connector position, a known good relay should operate.

Now is the time to wire in a parallel toggle to the BL & BL/BLU wires for WHEN a relay fails or to prime the fuel system after storage or long intervals between uses. A lot of people just run a toggle (or hard wire) without a relay at all. I would prefer at least a toggle so I can shut the pump off with the bike power on if needed, but I retain the relay with a toggle on my bikes.

 

I need to amazon some moto switches I suppose.

 

any auto supply store will have the switch you need, also any good hardware store.

 

So I found this handy 3 pin con in my pile o electrical. Solder the two pins together and boom. Bikes fires up. I did have the pump plumbed backwards so I was pushin bubbles into the fuel can. Lol idles smooth, revs 11k and now ready for street test. Thanks for the help!…again.