The VFR that wasn't but now is.

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by RogueRC24, Oct 19, 2021.

  1. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    A3F8D933-F953-4122-9C50-E19B1990714D.jpeg Time to learn how to check valve clearance before I remove the engine.
    My addendum says .005 IN, .007 EX.
    Reading time.
     
  2. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Alright done for tonight but here are the scores. image.jpg
    It seems to me most of them are tight. would this be a loosen nut run adjuster screw down 1/2 turn or so for .001? Or just mess with each until I get to .005/.007?
     
  3. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    With screw adjusting tappets, I believe you need to tighten the tappet until you get resistance on the feeler, then do up the locknut. I found I needed a fair bit of trial and error to get the locknut tight and have the right clearance. With valve clearance, erring on a little loose is safer than a little tight. Should be easy enough with the bare frame/engine, not so much fun under "normal" maintenance circumstances.
     
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  4. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Alright, reset valve clearances. Way easier than the shim under bucket. I have 16ft lbs for valve adjustment locking nut. Seem correct? I am working off of a 1986-1994 book..soooo. There is some interpretation involved.
    Lump removed, and ready for cleaning and some paint. Frame and front ready for paint and disassembly.
    The headers seem excessively light. F0860A76-F0D3-4C3C-8D61-A34A4FB4B5F4.jpeg
    Wife had to help me, by holding engine balanced on a scissor jack while I lifted the frame up and over. Then rolled away with the front half of the bike. Lol glad I left the front brakes on .
     
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  5. sixdog

    sixdog Member

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    Excellent!!! And kudos to your better half!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  6. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    16/45 on the RC26. Pretty much because a nearly brand new Sunstar 45 came on one of the CBR hubs, so why not?

    Rode it last night for the first time this season. That gearing is pretty much perfect with the wheel swap on this bike. 46 wouldn't be unreasonable either

    Over 70 degrees in Seattle yesterday!!! Now it dropped over 20 degrees with a slight chance of some lowland snow mix Saturday morning.
     
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  7. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Excellent news!!
    I purchased a JTFxxx (can't remember now) for the front in 520. That CS drive spline is the same as the 2003 CB900 apparently. Test fit looks great. DID 520-gold from Cycle Gear (old racer discount) and parts unlimited was dumping a new 45T CBR rear sprocket on amazon. Fits pattern on F2 wheel so I should be dialed in. 45-46 seems like a nice combo without going too torque happy. Thanks for the riding review. That makes me even more excited to get this back together.
     
  8. Thumbs

    Thumbs Member

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    When you get around to doing the forks if you’re leaving the TRAX system in the YSS springs are now full length so no spacer tube, as far as I know Wilbers, Hagon, etc are the same …best to check and also the diameter, RC24 had 39mm forks, yours are 41mm

    If you’re doing away with it and fittting Emulators or similar, you’ll have to do what I did and get some 92-95 springs so you can cut the spacer for them
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2022
  9. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    1986 RC24 were only 37mm. They went down from 39 that the previous gen had. I also have an article from a magazine where they got to test a pre-production 83 that had 41mm forks. But the test riders preferred the 39mm forks. Same thing happened on the 86 RC24/26.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2022
  10. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Update!!
    Has everyone removed their center stands before?
    I didn't realize that one of the sides is reverse thread......so that is why that bolt snapped once I got onto it with a blow torch and 3' breaker. :(
    I just figured it was rusted, like everything else on this ole bike. New bolt ordered luckily and I didn't cock up the threaded bushing... which isn't available anywhere. small win.
    Frame almost ready for powder coating. Just going to pre-mask so the dudes at the PC don't put spray in critical areas.

    I have never done forks, so I am not sure I have the tools or experience to get them right.
     
  11. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Long 6mm allen hex socket is the biggest. Maybe some circlip pliers if the seal retainer is that style.

    And then something to drive the seals and bushings. Doesn't have to be fancy, I often use a length of PVC pipe.
     
  12. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Hmm, no spring compressors or weird one off tools....ok. looking better.
    Since I have no clue on what to replace besides seals, could I just buy some kind of Racetech kit to direct swap? Also, what do I do about getting rid of the TRAC? So little knowledge in this area. I should have gone to fork school.
    Time to research and read I suppose. At least I am not on a timeline for forks since they don't leak.
    My 41mm forks might be an issue, since my bike doesn't even show up on the Racetech sight. :(
     
  13. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Get them apart first and see what condition the bushings are in. Plus, you never know what's in there, someone could have upgraded them.

    They are built like 1986 VFR forks, just in 41mm diameter. Easy enough to figure out what Emulators you need. TRAC is easy to disable, it's usually just removing a couple circlips and a spring.
     
  14. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    i'd never dispute anything cap80's says ( because he really DOES know it ALL), but i think the TRAC system works fine and really helps control front end dive under braking.
     
  15. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    ^^ Sounds good on both accounts. See what we get this weekend maybe.
     
  16. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    If you have proper straight rate springs and valving, TRAC just introduces harshness when you don't need it and is unnecessary.

    On a bone-stock system that is properly maintained, it has some value.
     
  17. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Thanks SM, but...

    I certainly DO NOT know it ALL. I do know a LOT about this era of Hondas, but I am constantly learning new things and when I am am wrong. It's part of what makes this community so great.
     
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  18. Colddevil

    Colddevil Member

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    Here is the RaceTech instructions for installing emulators on Honda forks with TRAC anti-dive. I haven't done it yet, so I can't offer any tidbits of help. But I'll be doing it somewhat soon as I've got all the parts.

    https://racetech.com/page/title/DRod 5-2 Honda TRAC
     
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  19. RogueRC24

    RogueRC24 Member

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    Thanks Cold! I have so many parts going so many different directions, I may leave this to last.
     
  20. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    You'll probably end up buying the same Emulator kit as CBR600F2 or NT650. I've done at least 7 bikes from TRAC Damper forks to Emulators. The hardest thing is drilling and de-burring the damper rods. Well... at least nice enough to post a pic of your work.

    20210606_181052.jpg
     
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