The VFR that wasn't but now is.

You're not welding up the damper rod rebound bleed hole, are you? Big time arguments over whether or not to do it on other Non-Honda bikes... Personally I can't figure out why you would do it because it leaves the only escape path for fluid to be blow-by of the damper rod seal. But it's common to weld/plug the hole on some other conventional forks.

*Edit--sorry if I've asked this already.

 

RT used to recommend filling them on the VF1000 41mm forks with separate fork functions. One fork has rebound damping adjustment and you would disable it, but those rods have 3 holes of varying size. Come to think of it, I think they recommended leaving the smallest one open. Semi-recently they started putting only one Emulator on the compression fork and leave the rebound duties to the stock fork. Something about the rebound fork parts and the compression Emulator were having some problem coexisting. But I know of MANY people installing the traditional 2 Emulator kit on VF1000 and VF750 following the instructions and being very happy.

I've done the single Emulator set-up twice now and it works perfectly. I change to the 4 hole plate and the medium or firm preload spring and start with about 4 turns of preload. They wanted to sell me the "VF1000" kit, which is only 1 Emulator and a "needed" adapter for the same price (10$ less?) as a normal pair. Well, the fork damper rod design does not need an adapter, like the earlier Magnas and Sabres. I finally got a tech to tell me that the one Emulator is no different than the other 41mm Honda Kits that take two. So I bought that kit and did two VF1000 for the price of one.

 

YSS carry their equivalent of Emulators for the Fk

 

I haven't seen them before, but it may that in my admittedly quick search, there doesn't seem to be any US distributors. But they are on eBay from the UK, and they are cheaper than RT.

Hmmmmm....

Thanks for the heads up!

 

The US dealership
https://www.suspension-store.com/YSS_PD_valves

 

The US dealership is:

Vonderweg 15F
5741 TE
Beek en Donk
the Netherlands

?????????

 

Posted the wrong link …..that’s just the selection sheets

Looks like there’s a redirection on the site

Try this https://epmperf.com/

 

Cool, thanks dude.

 

Actually looks like they might not carry the line of PD Valves

 

Yes sure looks like you’re correct, even the ones listed on eBay are from the UK

 

Update that everyone has been waiting for with fever pitch enthusiasm.

Stuff is still at powder coaters.
BUT:
Penske on order.
Forks in process.
Engine has been scrubbed down.
All coolant related o-rings have been replaced.
Engineering in process with EYHonda from Hawk forum on oil cooler line options.
cleaned up front headers.

To do on engine:
new exhaust header bolts - some came out when tearing down bike. Special method to install new ones? Loctite?
clean up rear headers
clean up head and install new plugs

cheers

 

Very kewl.

I think i just usually double-nut them snug without loctite. Don't really see any reason not to, but I also don't see any reason I need to. Ain't likely going anywhere. Plus, what if I fuck up and snap one off wrestling with something during assy? I want the stub to come out as easily as possible. (I know unlikely... but I've done plenty of stupid shit)

What "process" are the forks going thru?

 

The process of me cheating and sending them to my suspension guy. I have a ton of home, family, and other bike projects. So as much as I want to learn, I am willing to skip these forks as a learning experience and pass that work along.

Although with my new purchase I plan on taking my time to understand forkyness down the road. You already know the pos I speak of. lol

+1 on the NO loctite. I can't see any reason since them breaking off ( and having to drill) is a much worse scenario then them coming loose someday.

 

So more amazing news on my bike. The chrome on my tubes are too damaged in the sealing area to seal. So... Time to look for new tubes or whole forks, because at $300 to re-chrome in Cali I might as well go upside down or from a different model to fit my triples (41mm).
Ebay may be a slippery slope. Don't care if I have a speedo, so using some custom spacers is on the table.

I think just running F2 forks might be the easiest way to go. Some on ebay for $110+ship. They just bolt right into my triples right? Ebay may not be the most trustworthy but my most likely option.

Ideas?

 

Do you already have a front wheel for the conversion?

 

Yeah I have the f2 front and rear. I think the speedo drive, rotors and calipers are the same, but not entirely sure, until I can do a 1 to 1 match.

 

OK. The simplest would be F2, F3 or 90-97 VFR forks.

F2 91-93: Damper rod, would need emulators. Should be able to use your discs.

F2 94: Cartridge with rebound damping and preload adj. Not the most sophisticated cartridge fork, but if I found a good deal on a decent set...

F3: Cartridge with rebound damping and preload. Better design than 94, probably the best stock 41mm forks Honda built and are still sought after for conversions. Would need 90-93 VFR discs to use with F2 wheel. Need to fab a speedo drive stop for F2 drive.

90-97 VFR: Cartridge w/o adjustable damping. Later years had adjustable pre-load. Not the most sophisticated cartridge fork, but I use these because I can find them and they suit my needs for triple clamp and brake sizes. Same disc size as F3. Need to fab a speedo drive stop for F2 drive.

You will likely need brakes from a donor bike too. The TRAC has a unique bracket, and I know that VFR (at least 86/87) and F2/F3 calipers are not actually the same.

You could also look for just tubes, but this is a good time to ditch the TRAC system on the fork lower.

Of course you can go wild, but now your introducing different triples and figuring out steering clearance (like at the radiator) and frame stops. Keep in mind the VFR frame has a longer steering stem than a lot of bikes, but at least the stem is removable from the lower clamp.

 

well..shit. time to get to work, yet again. Thanks Capt!

 

Oh, and the F3 / VFR calipers use a larger brake pad with more swept area. F2 brake pads are tiny.

 

'94 F2 forks incoming! Keep my fingers crossed on these. Seller takes returns and has about as good a rep as I can ask for on Ebay.

Time to look for some calipers. I'm not sure if I am reading this correctly, but I may be able to run F3 calipers with a bigger swept area on my incoming F2 forks. Or just get some F2 calipers and be done?