VF500F with CBR600F Fork Sliders

I've checked this out before and found that clearance issues were a problem. Granted, this was several years ago but my numbers just didn't justify putting the work into it.

Chief - how did you check to ensure there is clearance? Just looking with the forks/bike at static sag isn't enough, you have to put the forks into a fully compressed state and check the entire lock-to-lock to make sure nothing can hit. Since there is some flex I try to maintain 10mm clearance at all points. Did you check the fully compressed situation?

I've got a spare set of VTR1000F forks (which are longer than the F2's by the way) that I'm going to use for a test. I plan to go through a How To for my site showing the steps needed to check a front end swap. It's been my experience that most "swappers" just check that the steering stem fits and the bars have clearance with the fairing but nothing else. The bars are really a minor detail, it's the steering lock to lock and wheel clearance that are the big hitters.

 

Hummm.... kind of looks like Steve Scott's old bike....

 

I raced with this setup several times and had no problems. I am a big braker so if there were clearance issues I would have found them out (probably by being on my head!). What I will do once I dig things out is take some pictures with the forks compressed, and of the distance I have them raised in the triples so everyone knows what they are looking at.

It is always possible that I didn't get the setup just so, but I had no issues with the bike as it is set at racing speeds so I figure that is a good litmus test. YMMV.

 

I don't remember the guy's name that I spoke to, it was at Roebling Road in Savannah around 1998/9. He had a VFR750 gas tank mounted, had installed VTR250 valves (IIRC they were the same size as stock but had waisted stems), bored carbs and probably some other stuff he didn't tell me.

Jamie, the steering lock was an issue but I cut the stops back a bit. As for the clearance between the front wheel and the radiator, it is small but enough so that I felt comfortable (I am very conservative with what I do).

I just want to let everyone know, I have some skills from my job so I am not BSing anyone. This swap worked for me, I did it with minimal work as at the time I had little to no place to work. Maybe I was just lucky, but I believe that it is possible.

 

project bike

Nice work! - thank you taking the time to post.

If you do have a chance to take some additional digital photos I think this would be a great 'case study' project bike to have in the photo gallery.

:thumbsup:

 

Okay, here are some pictures. I didn't have any help to collapse the forks and take a picture of the clearance. The closest distance between the fender and radiator is 4" with the weight of the bike only (my angle was offset for that picture).

Finally, because I knew someone would ask, the last picture is of the support and bracing under the seat. I cut everything to size and shaped it, had to get it welded elsewhere as I don't have the equipment.

 

Nice Chief! Where's that front fender from?

 

That's the complete 600F2 front end, fender and all. Digging it out made me realize I need to get on the stick and get it rolling on the street again. Next time home...

 

The F2 forks have 130mm of travel. If your rider sag is set correctly then you will have maybe 5-10mm of static sag. That means you need to allow for at least 120mm of wheel travel. That's 4.72in. Additionally, I've modified your picture below to show where I noticed the worst case distance to be.

Just unscrew the fork caps and let the bike drop down on the forks. That will compress them fully and you find out really quickly where you have clearance, and possibly where you don't.

 

I didn't think about that, wasn't looking at putting that much time into it. I have car repairs the next couple of days so it won't happen before mid-week. I will do it to remove any questions anyone has about this.

I understand people wanting to make sure, but to reiterate I did race with this setup and had no problems.

 

fork caps

Thank you for posting the photos. I can appreciate all the work that you have put into this bike. If you do have some time to check the fender to engine/radiator clearance - with the fork caps off - this would be most appreciated

 

people are wanting to know because those with a 500 will want to make the change, if it works without a problem. it's an update thing.

 

Yeah, I've been getting asked about doing that for years. To date my answer has always been :sorry:

 

I completely understand and I am willing to put in the time. It is a simple bolt-up, the steering stem is the same length and everything. I just ask for everyone to be patient, I'll have the info by the end of next week unless I get struck by lightening.

 

Thanks chief!

 

Guess I should lay in a supply of 600F2 front ends!

 

I decided to go ahead and get this done today. Here are the pictures with the fork caps removed and the forks collapsed. It was too difficult to get anything in there for measuring hence the screwdriver tip. As you can see there is 7-8mm clearance between the fender and the front cylinder head. This is with the tubes raised in the triples around 1 1/2" (previous picture).

Any other questions let me know.

 

photographic proof

Many thanks for taking the time to document this - you are a gentleman and a scholar!

To confirm - the 7-8mm clearance is from lock to lock?

This certainly opens up some options for VF500F owners :biggrin:

 

Didn't move the forks, I was on my own and the bike is a little precarious in that position. What I measured should be the closest clearance because as you move the front wheel it will move slightly away from the cylinder head.

 

i got something for ya'll instead of a cbr front end try putting a rc51 on it!!