VFR 1200 starting and running problems

I have a 2014 VFR 1200F, bought new.

VIN: J[?]H25C63U5DK300054,
Engine: SC63E[?]5102389

It has a little over 40,000 km on the odometer, and has been serviced annually, with 6 month interim oil and filter changes. I commute periodically, and have done a number of long trips.

The engine used to start easily and idle at around 1,150 to 1,200 rpm. In use, it could feel a little harsh at lower revs, but ran sweetly at around 4,000 rpm.

About 24 months ago I began to experience an intermittent problem. The engine would die on start-up, and when re-started, the engine and traction control lights would stay on, or pulse, orange. The engine would idle, but at around 1,000 - 1,100 rpm, and would 'hunt'. The problem is now regular.

The problem generally goes away if, after 15 minutes or so of travel, I turn off the ignition, wait about 30 seconds, and re-start.

Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery also seemed to help, but is inconvenient.

I have had an oxygen sensor replaced. The air filter also was replaced. That worked for about 2000 km before the problems returned.

On 23 January the problem was much worse. After a re-start, the engine would simply die during gear changes. When the throttle was open the engine was surging. I pulled over, switched off, waited 30 seconds, and restarted. The engine returned to low idle and hunting, with orange engine and traction lights on, but otherwise ran without stalling. In the afternoon, the problem was not evident, though the engine felt harsh.

It has variedsince then. Starting the engine with the throttle open a little seems to improve things, but I am still regularly getting lumpy idle and at times poor fuelling at on a steady throttle.

Trying to understand the problem, it seems to me:

- the problem might be mechanical - idle set too low or 'stiction' in a throttle body, triggering a report of a defect. That theory doesn't seem to explain the stalling/surging behaviour.
- the problem might be failure in, or damage to, a circuit board. If so, which circuit board is likely to need to be checked or replaced?

In any event, these problems are not acceptable.

Does anyone have a solution?


Stephen White

 

Hi Stephen.

Don't have a 1200, but I do know that these bikes are very sensitive to the health of the battery which can cause very strange effects.
So....First off, check the battery. Charge the battery and then get it load tested at a local automotive spares store, Autobahn or Supercheap Auto will do this for free. If the battery is more than a few years old, perhaps its worth just investing in a new one. You need to be absolutely sure you have a healthy battery BEFORE suspecting any other issue.

It goes without saying, but with any suspected battery issue ALWAYS verify your charging system voltage, a very simple test with a voltmeter. And make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight.

Failing any battery issuse. You stated that the Fi fault light came on. If you are not getting a fault code flashing with Sidestand down (an active fault). Then it may have stored a historical fault code. Going through the process of reading any stored codes in the ECM might lead to a faulty device. You may want to clear all stored codes then re run your bike and note any flash of the Fi light. An intermittent EFI issue might hopefully store a historical code that can be read back from the stored ECM codes.

Hope this helps.
Good luck.

 

Anything to update????? Be nice to get some feedback. Haha I won't hold my breath!

 

2010 VFR1200 DCT 65,000 kms
Normal idle is 1100, usual fuel - RON98, but costs have sent me back to RON95.
Problem started before change fuel grade, changing back to 98 hasn't fixed the problem.
I am having the same problem, will not idle, hunts and surges 2000-3000rpm trying to slow down, gets to idle and stalls.
Sometimes it comes good after warming up for 10-15 mins (2-3 temps dots)
Wont start without a tad of throttle twist.

First time this happened it ran so lean and overheated I couldn't stay on the bike,
Dr Google suggested the MAP Sensor - I have changed the MAP sensor and it went OK for a while.
Replaced the vacuum tubes around the MAP sensor too
Cleared the Fi Error codes, not getting any now.
Runs perfect after "fixing" for a day or 2.
Sometime the rear plugs foul, so these have been changed 3x, NO Fix
Now it seems like a Process of elimination,
Injector cleaner through 1/2 tank of RON 98. NO Fixed
2x Rear Cap Coils as it is the rears that are fouling. NO Fix
New Battery. NOFix

I am stumped.. Any Help is greatly appreciated
in the last 12 months it has been in the shed more than on the road

 

Hi Norm.
Where in Aus are you?
As previously mentioned I don't have a 1200, but with everything you've done I wonder whether you should get the bike to a reputable Honda dealership that has the Honda HDS diagnostic equipment. The HDS gives far greater ECM details and allows for tuning and calibration especially the two TP Sensors and getting throttle plate angles correct, vitally important for proper cold and warm idle control.

Good Luck let's know how you get on.

 

Surging sounds like an air intake leak. Check every seam and hole in your air box and the boots connecting to the throttle bodies.

 

West side mate - Perth

 

Update:
My lovely & caring partner helped me to decide to go down the somewhat expensive path of elimination.
Now ordered a new set of squirters and a fuel pump.

 

thnx NT650 - that was all done when the MAP sensor was replaced.
the only thing I have just now thought of is maybe sick O2 sensor... sending funky info back to the computer.

 

Are your sure you don't have a Fuel Filter blockage poor flow situation? Hunting, surging, stalling all sound symptomatic of dirty blocked Fuel Filter. Perhaps running the fuel flow tests in the Service Manual might be worth doing?

If you decide on having the ECM diagnostic and calibration tool check done. These places in WA can help you out.
Planet Honda Motorcycles - Jandakot. West Coast Motorcycles - Joondalup.

 

I confess - I am an intermittent participant.
Now up to about 50,000 km. I have done the things suggested by those above kind enough to make suggestions. I replaced the lithium battery with a lead acid, which I keep on a trickle charger. I have added an extra earth connection. I have pulled and replaced all fuses. I have used injection cleaner. I have had the bike regularly serviced, and have tried to have the problem investigated. Of course, by the time I ride to the service, the engine is warmed and the problem is gone. But still, intermittently, it bogs down and dies on start up. What seems to be the most effective way of preventing this is to open the throttle a little before starting, but that runs the risk of revving the cold engine (which I dislike), and it can’t be done with any precision when wearing gloves.

I am wondering if I have something like a sticking valve. Or perhaps the fuel injection equivalent of a choke isn’t operating properly.

 

Hope the Battery replacement was an AGM type and with the same capacity as the original YTZ14S.

Have the Spark Plugs been changed recently?

Perhaps you are at the stage of taking the bike to a Honda specialist that has the HDS tool to ensure the whole throttle by wire system, and cold idle speed and enrichment is correct, calibration values can all be read and corrected if need be.

Good Luck, keep us posted with how you get on.

 

I resolved the problems I was having with my 1200 running like a psycho, not running under 3K, surging bouncing between 1500-3000 revs...

Turns out the the O² sensors was faulty.
Replaced MAP Sensor, Vacuum lines, Battery, all Injectors, 2 Rr coil caps, fuel pump, 2 full sets of plugs and another 3 pair of rear plugs.
Mostly running sweet again but still has a light surge at 3500-400 RPM when cruising.