Videos on how to bleed clutch and brakes.

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by mofo, Mar 22, 2020.

  1. mofo

    mofo New Member

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    Can someone help by posting links/videos on a step by step clutch and brake bleeding? 2004 VFR 800A.
    I have the manual on how to do it, but is a little confusing to me.
    Recently replaced the clutch plates, friction plates and springs and since I need to bleed the clutch, might as well put new brake fluid too.
    Thank you.
     
  2. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    This one is specifically for clutch bleeding but I suspect the brake bleeding is the same principle.

     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2020
  3. mofo

    mofo New Member

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    Thanks Randy. I saw a member here posted a video some time ago on how to properly bleed the brakes.
    I believe because the linked brake system, there is a procedure to bleed the brakes, but I may be wrong.
    Hope you and yours are doing well.
     
  4. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    I am trying to think. That is quite the task these days. But I helped someone bleed my brakes (Linked) just before heading down to R3 2014. I think the only caveat is that you need to bleed the rears first. In any event, there was not a hell of a lot to it, and it seems to me, it was not really any different that what I saw on the clutch video. I didn't watch the brake one. Do you have those self closing bleeders on your bike? They make things so much easier if you are doing this alone. No need for someone to hold the lever in while you tighten the nipple. The stop bleed back so air does not enter. Might be a worth while investment of very little if you are doing this right now.

    This guy in the video I think is the same guy I watched and learned about cleaning our bobbins on the front rotors. I think he also did a video on plastic welding using spent zip ties as the welding rod.

    We are doing pretty good a few things considered. There is serious illness with both my in-laws at the moment and they are in another city. One is recovering well, the other...well she is being kept comfortable. Chilliwack has not yet been hit by any confirmed cases of the virus. Our stats in BC are skewed because there are several reported cases and a few deaths from one seniors care facility. But if you were to take that facility out of the formula, BC is doing fairly well but as is, we are the worst province in the country at the moment. Hope you are in a good position at home as well.
     
  5. mofo

    mofo New Member

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    I'm saving the world from my couch one person at a time.
    I don't have the speed bleeders. Will look into them when I go get the brake fluid, I don't have a job right now and much rather don't spend the money if I don't have to.
    Sorry to hear about your in-laws Randy, and hope the virus stays away from your town.
     
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  6. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    If you follow the service manual sequence, you should be fine. SpeedBleeders are great as long as you're not starting out with an empty system (such as replacing lines)... regular bleeders or vac bleeder until the lines are full.
     
  7. mofo

    mofo New Member

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    Thanks raYzerman. Clutch is done. Not sure how well I did it until I test ride it, will do brakes today.
     
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  8. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    You'll be able to tell if clutch is good, should have pressure on the lever right away..... forgot to mention, with juice clutches, I usually zip tie the lever to the handlebar overnight, sometimes there's a residual bubble of air that's hard to get out, with the lever against the bar, the bubble will travel up and into the reservoir since the master cylinder valve is open.
    Same deal for brakes if you like, but there's tons of hiding spots for air in all those lines...
     
  9. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    I don't mean to argue a point mostly because I don't know. I am inexperienced with the tech stuff. But the video I posted, they actually address just this. I think he said it is good to do this with the brake, but do not do it with the clutch. I don't recall the reasons without going back to watch it again, which everyone can do.
     
  10. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    I wouldn't know why not the clutch, maybe concerned the clutch spring is compressed overnight, loses springiness? I wouldn't even think twice about it.
     
  11. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    I think that might have been the concern. For some reason I can't open up the link I posted to check back for his concern. I remember back in the day, at the end of shift, we used to unload the magazines from our 9mm to take the pressure off the springs.
     
  12. mofo

    mofo New Member

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    Bled the brakes yesterday and took the bike for a spin. Brakes feel good, but clutch feels like the first time I rode it without bleeding it.
     
  13. signal

    signal New Member

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    I watched the videos. To confirm, he gives 2 slightly different sequences, depending on if you are doing brakes or clutch.

    For clutch he said 1) Pull Clutch Lever, 2) Open bleeder, 3) Close bleeder, 4) release Clutch Lever
    For brakes he said 1) Open bleeder, 2) pull brake lever, 3) close bleeder, 4) release brake lever

    Do I have this right?
     
  14. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    If you have the original bleeders, the tendency is if you leave the bleeder open slightly, it will suck a little fluid back in from your bleed tube... so always have your bleed tube higher than the bleeder then drop into your collection jar. As you initially pump to expel old fluid, it may take a while as sucking fluid back in isn't the most efficient, but works. At the end, close the bleeder, pulling the lever puts the fluid under pressure, relieve that pressure by opening the bleeder slightly, close it, release bleeder. Repeat as many times as necessary to get any air out. If you're having trouble getting all the air out, chances are there is air leaking past the threads of the bleeder screw... either smear some grease around it or wrap with Teflon tape.
    With SpeedBleeders, the spring and valve in the bleeder eliminates the need for opening/closing the bleeder. They come with a thread sealer applied. I use silicone tubing as it seals tight on the bleeder and won't slip off...
    Bled my Gen5 yesterday following the FSM sequence, it was obvious the PO had not bled these for quite some time, fluid was dark and there was sediment in the front reservoirs. Took longer than necessary to clean things up, I think I used almost a liter of fluid, never done that before..... I always tell people to bleed annually, then it's a 15 minute job kind of thing.
    Fronts are independent from the rear, rears are linked to the front. Rear caliper gets done last and I have teeny bubbles in the main bleeder on the rear caliper... I hope I can get rid of it today after leaving the pedal tied down overnight.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2020 at 12:28 AM
  15. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    Honestly, I would just have to go back and watch the videos again myself so I will leave that up to you. I really don't see where that matters but then I am not a mechanic and the guy in the videos is.
     
  16. Riding a 2000

    Riding a 2000 Insider

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    You should have seen what came out of the braking system for my motor home.
    I think I'll do it annually, the stuff looked like dark maple syrup. Maybe Kahlua.
     
  17. mofo

    mofo New Member

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    Let's meet half way, I'll bring the coffee.
     
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  18. James Bond

    James Bond Member

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    It sounds hard until you do it. On an 8th gen. anyway. It's amazingly simple but it helps a LOT to have a helper with you. DO NOT get brake fluid on any painted surface or any surface for that matter.
     
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