Voltmeter Install

Discussion in 'Gear & Accessories' started by Aced It, Jan 22, 2020.

  1. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    Blue isn't any better in direct sunlight.

    It's not a big deal since the voltmeter is such a low draw item, but IME if I can forget to flip a swith...I will.

    I'm big in the KISS camp.
     
  2. Norse

    Norse New Member

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    Then you are going to both love and hate the way I just re-wired mine. It's completely idiot-proof, but also over-engineered.

    I drew up a quick wiring diagram that might be of use to someone. I tried to keep it as easy to understand and follow as possible.
    It's switched and has a on/off button. If you don't want it switched, just remove the fuse box and relay parts from the battery side and hook it directly to the battery. If you wan't it switched but without a separate button, just remove the button and relay from the outlet side and hook it up directly.
    I used waterproof connectors to keep make it easier to disconnect in the future.

    Note: My on/off button has a light. That is why there are 4 wires going to it. If yours does not have light, just disregard the wires going from the connector to the button.

     
  3. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    Yeah, a bit busy for my taste: 2 relays, a switch, fuse box and 2 connectors, when two wires would work.

    But if you're happy, that's all that matters.
     
  4. Norse

    Norse New Member

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    It's security and redundancy. This setup has zero chance of overloading the circuit it is hooked into or damaging anything that is plugged into the USB sockets, no matter what happens. It will turn on and off with the ignition and can be manually turned off when not needed.
    The first relay protects the controlling circuit (in this case the clock) and the second relay protects the on/off switch. They will handle the power so the button and the original circuit will have no unnecessary load put on them.
    There is also a second fuse on the fusetap so that in the event of failure, the clock circuit will not be affected.

    Yes, you could just run 2 wires. Either straight from the battery which means it won't be switched, or tapped into a switched circuit, which means you could overload an actual part of the bikes electronics rather than just your add-on part.

    I'm lazy. In all the right ways. I would rather do a little bit more work now, then do a lot more work later.
    When $15,- worth of parts and 20 minutes of work means I can trust this to never cause problems (and have more functions + a solid platform to potentially add other things to later), that is an easy choice for me.
     
  5. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    When you sell the bike, if ya do, that's going to be one of those things where the new owner is going to look at it and mumble under his breath, "what the fuck was that guy thinkin''"
     
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  6. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    When I meant 2 wires, I was referring to 2 wires from the fuse box. I have mine wired from a fused circuit
    in the Blue Sea fuse box. The Blue Sea fuse box is powered through a switched relay. The relay is activated
    by the fused circuit of the tail light, and draws power from a fused wire directly from the battery. No need
    for more relays, switches, fuses, and connectors. One set of 2 wires to the voltmeter.

    I can run 6 or 8 devices with simple wiring. It just seems cleaner and simpler to me. Right now I think I
    have 3 devices running off the fuse box.

    But as I said, if it works for you then doesn't matter how anyone else feels about it.
     
  7. fink

    fink Member

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    Wow!! How to overcomplicate things.
    Far easier to loose second relay and install your own fusebox there ,then switch onto voltmeter if you want. I'm assuming the first fusebox is where you are getting your switched connection from. If so there is no need for a fuse on it the fuse should be coming from the battery. I'll try n do a diagram later. (have a bike to service first)
     
  8. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    It's just a voltmeter... if your fuse box is a switched connection, nothing needed but wire. If it's live, just add a switch.
     
  9. Norse

    Norse New Member

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    It's a voltmeter and 2 high power USB ports. And it's set up as a platform to easily add other things to.

    Again; Yes, you CAN just use some bits of old wire. You can also do it correctly.
    If you have a switch/button, you should have a relay. If you want to be able to draw more power than a circuit is supposed to handle, You NEED a relay.

    Just like you could trust the piss poor R/R Honda found in a Chinese bargain bin and the even cheaper wiring connecting it to the bike. Or you could do it right.

    But I agree. If you are JUST adding a voltmeter, you need basically nothing. It draws almost no power.
     
  10. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    I don't have any problem you doing it your way, it's just not the way I would do it. Nor am I using the cheap RR and wiring, which has nothing to do with this conversation. I would use the appropriate fuse and wiring for the device you're powering. How much current does your dual USB/voltmeter use?
     
  11. Norse

    Norse New Member

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    It's not so much about how much it uses, but how much it can use.
    It's for fast charging. Each of the 2 ports will deliver up to 3A if used for that purpose. This is why a relay for the on/off button is a good idea. Most small buttons with integrated light are not rated for more than 1A. Mine happen to be rated for 5A but even if that is enough 99% of the time, there just isn't a good reason to not throw a cheap relay in there, just to do it by the book.

    But as I originally mentioned, This is also a platform for future expansion. For example, I will be adding extra lights up front.
    I'm also planning another USB outlet under the seat, for my powerbank or charging my phone while the bike is parked. Just the simple fact that I have the relay back there, means that no matter what I add to that new switched circuit, it will never overload the bikes original circuit.
     
  12. WiscoTwisties

    WiscoTwisties New Member

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    Ran across a guy who makes these in a different forum, just ordered one, looks like a very clean install option for a volt meter and power ports. E7752661-BFAA-4C64-8520-0618ABADD8F0.png 2795D2E4-03C2-447A-B890-8A977BB67BA2.png
     
  13. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    Hmm, that's kind of cool. Got a link?
     
  14. WiscoTwisties

    WiscoTwisties New Member

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  15. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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  16. Trentski757

    Trentski757 New Member

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    If anyone is interested in an easy inexpensive voltmeter option; I used a USB charger with a voltmeter display, there is a switch to turn off the display. The SAE cord connects direct to the battery and can be disconnected from the USB and used for a battery tender. The USB charger is zipped tied to the clutch hose. When you are using the USB port, the display changes from volts to amp output for what is charging.

    1990 Voltmeter.JPG

    1990 Voltmeter2.JPG
     
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