Weight Reduction Parts & Info Thread

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Norse, Dec 25, 2019.

  1. Norse

    Norse New Member

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    I think having a thread of info and direct weight comparisons could be a good resource for those trying to shave a few lbs off their steed.
    Most would be amazed at just how much all the little things add up and how much it can matter.

    Relevant info that I think entries should contain is:
    -Bike model/year.
    -Part.
    -Weight (of both old and new part if replacement).
    -Perhaps info on other relevant factors related to that part.

    I'll go first:

    2000 RC46 Rear Sprockets.

    -Stock: 1121 grams / 2.47 lbs
    -Lightened Steel: 769 grams / 1.69 lbs
    Aluminium (+2 teeth): 352 grams / 0.77 lbs

    From heaviest to lightest, that is a reduction of 769 grams / 1.7 lbs.
    All of that is unsprung, rotational mass which has an exponentially larger impact on bike performance than anything else so while the numbers might not look huge in the grand scheme of things, it is actually pretty massive.


    Hope you guys will add more.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2020
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  2. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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  3. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    I did a little work in this area on a 6g project I did.

    Shaved sprocket carrier

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Titanium sprocket bolts, washers and bi-hex metal lock nuts

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Lightened Galfer Wave rear rotor

    [​IMG]

    Titanium rotor bolts and nuts

    [​IMG]

    DID ERV3 520 chain conversion with Vortex hardcoated aluminum sprocket, titanium hub nut and washer

    [​IMG]

    I don't have any pictures, but I also sourced titanium lug nuts for the rear wheel. I also did a lot of massaging in the suspension linkage department and removed the center stand, along with a bunch of other tweeks.
     
  4. Brian Rodgers

    Brian Rodgers New Member

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    Beautiful !
    Do you recall the source of the titanium bits?
    Brian
     
  5. fink

    fink Member

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    How much did that cost?
     
  6. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    Nothing. Chucked it up in a lathe.
     
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  7. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    A lot of the nuts and bolts were cross referenced from other Honda models, as you couldn't find them for the VFR800 specifically. Some also had to be shortened, which was done on a lathe. You have to use the Honda part numbers to cross reference. The standard nuts and bolts were just measured by hand with a caliper and a thread pitch gauge and ordered from titanium bolt suppliers. I replaced about 99% of the fasteners on the chassis and suspension, minus the swingarm pivot and front axle. I used stainless on the engine mount bolts.

    I use these folks for fasteners.

    https://www.probolt-usa.com/

    http://store.mettec.com/

    https://titanclassics.com/product-category/honda-titanium-parts/honda-vfr800-titanium-parts/

    The guy that did the rotor lightening sold his business and retired, he was out of Savannah, Georgia. He also did some other machining for me.

    [​IMG]
    Stock Galfer Wave Rear rotor - before

    [​IMG]

    As posted before - after

    [​IMG]

    Assembled rear hub with titanium washer and axle nut

    [​IMG]

    Vortex aluminum hardcoated rear sprocket and DID ERV3 520 chain conversion and carbon toe guard

    [​IMG]

    Lightened Front Galfer Rotor

    [​IMG]

    Lightened suspension link

    [​IMG]

    Thurn Motorsport Ride Height Adjustment Plates and Ti hardware from Mettec

    [​IMG]

    Assembled Lightened Linkage and custom lower left fairing mount that is needed when the center stand is removed.

    [​IMG]

    Titanium swingarm pivot nut, cross referenced from another Honda model

    [​IMG]

    Fabricated carbon frame covers and ti mounting hardware for when the passenger pegs are removed. Right side has integrated reservoir mount for the Ohlins shock

    [​IMG]

    There are a lot of things you can do and they all add up. I also ended up sourcing titanium wheel nuts to lighten those up. I have gone even further with my latest RVF400RR build, with fabricated ti axles and billet rear hub carrier to lower the weight even more. It's fun messing around with this stuff.
     
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  8. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    "and removed the center stand"

    An RVF had a center stand option? I've read those lugs are for moving the bike down the assemble line.
     
  9. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Insider

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    no centre stand option at all on a RVF - hes only showing pics only of his 6th gen.
     
  10. fink

    fink Member

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    Nice to see someone who can use tools. :wheelie:Looks good.
     
  11. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    Those pics are from a 6g.
     
  12. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Yeah... I was a little hungover.
     
  13. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    hahahahahahaha, :Hippie:
     
  14. RS125

    RS125 New Member

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  15. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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  16. RS125

    RS125 New Member

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    Yea I would get my stuff at the Races. Mostly at Daytona
     
  17. Norse

    Norse New Member

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    While putting on the new headers, I threw the old ones on the scale. And a few other things I don't need.

    2000 RC46 original headers (with cat) : 15.2lbs
    Erion headers: 10lbs

    Center stand : 3.6lbs

    Original end can : 11.9lbs
    New carbon can (with link pipe) : 5.2lbs

    Pillion pegs: 3.2lbs

    All in all, I have removed about 30lbs of dead weight so far. And that is just from common upgrades and removing things that I don't have any use for.
    I absolutely certain you could get this old horse down to a sub 450 curb weight with relative ease and without spending 1000's on exotic parts like carbon wheels (although I really want those).
     
  18. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    Realistically, 475-480. Once you pick the low hanging fruit, it get's much harder to achieve big gains with little cash, or effort. The battery is the next biggest thing on your list. After that it's going to be a little bit at a time from everywhere. It is an expensive proposition, sub 500.
     
  19. Norse

    Norse New Member

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    Battery is definitely a pretty cheap way to shave a lot of weight. My new battery is 6.3lbs lighter than stock.

    Sub 500 is easy. Haven't had my whole bike on the scale yet, but based on the listed stock curb weight and the weight I have already removed, it should currently be around 485lbs. And I have plenty of things left to do. And a few pretty big ones.

    We might have different ideas of expensive, though.
    Over the years I have noticed that after the basic stuff (but before the insane stuff), a lot of gains can be made in the "150/1 price/performance" range. Roughly speaking that is around $150,- pr lbs saved or HP gained.
    in my experience, that tends to hold true on most bikes I have worked on.

    Anyway.. I'm not going for ultra light. Another 10-15lbs and that's it. Not really to make it light, but to make it the way I want it.
     
  20. Brian Rodgers

    Brian Rodgers New Member

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    Are y'all talking about empty weight (no fuel, no oil) or the weight with a full tank of fuel and oil (and water) ?
    I can definitely feel the weight difference between my '86 VFR and my '97 when just moving them in the shop.
    Brian
     
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