what did you do to your vfr today?

Discussion in 'General VFR Discussions' started by f3racer, Aug 10, 2014.

  1. Lint

    Lint Member

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    So, even after bleeding the clutch extensively about +- six months ago, I'm still getting crud coming out of the hose to the slave cylinder. Crazy!!!
     
  2. PetePower

    PetePower New Member

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    I am a big advocate of Annual fluid replacement, Brake and Clutch.
     
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  3. Lint

    Lint Member

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    I've never done bike brakes before, but I'd bet it needs done too. Ugh. I just want to ride...
     
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  4. Lint

    Lint Member

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    Could I polish the piston with some fine sandpaper since the seal does the work?
     
  5. PetePower

    PetePower New Member

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    You can try some really fine wet and dry like 1500grit if it works winner, if not new piston.
    Brake fluid flush is easy. Have a squirt bottle with dishwashing liquid mix handy. I always give the Reservoir a good squirt and clean before removing cap. Empty reservoir of old fluid and give it a good clean then refill with new(DONT OPERATE LEVER(or pedal for rear) WHEN RESERVOIR IS EMPTY. Don't use a bottle that's been open and sitting on the shelf for 6mths. Give the calipers a good squirt and clean. Get your self some clear hose and a plastic coke bottle put a hole in the coke lid so the hose is a tight fit, The hose should be long enough to go on the bleed nipple to the bottom of the bottle when its on the ground, saves trying to juggle and hold it. Crack the bleed nipple on the caliper and slowly operate the lever (pedal for rear) until the reservoir is nearly empty. Re-tighten nipple. DONT LET IT GET EMPTY or you will introduce air into the system. Refill and repeat until clean liquid is coming out. Then do the same on the other calipers. If you want to go crazy you can remove the calipers and give a thorough clean (I use paint brush and tooth brush and dishwashing liquid) paying close attention to the pistons. Top up reservoir check brakes aren't spongy, if they are you may need to rebleed a bit more to remove air bubbles. This is best done with a 2nd person as you may need to undo nipple on brake operation and then tighten nipple before releasing lever(pedal) and repeat till bubbles stop.
     
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  6. PetePower

    PetePower New Member

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    Oh make sure you don't get any moisture in the system and if you spill any fluid on paint or plastic wash it of before wiping it off. Another little tip is to use a tissue rolled up to a little point which you then stick in the end of the nipple once you are finished to soak up any residual fluid. You will need to do a few times till the tissue comes out dry. This stops corrosion in the nipples .
     
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  7. Lint

    Lint Member

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    It actually cleaned right up.

    20171214_154829.jpg
     
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  8. Lint

    Lint Member

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    Gawddamn, I've already cleaned this out once!!! Clutch master cylinder.

    20171214_175027.jpg

    I'm hoping the brakes look better than this!!! :ancient::ancient::ancient:
     
  9. Lint

    Lint Member

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    Well, it's clean again, and bled again. What I thought was very interesting, and frankly very convenient, is that if I pulled the clutch lever, just a little bit, I could watch air bubble up from the slave cylinder/hose. In effect, it bled itself! I did get a long hose and sucked some of the fluids and air out, but I wasn't getting any pressure building up until I got the master cylinder to stop bubbling and start squirting. After that, I only had to squeeze the lever a few times to bleed it out of the bleeder valve on the slave. All done!

    Now I just need to figure out a headlight and an instrument gauge. I've seen some interesting options on eBay and also per a recommendation from keef over at VFRD, a headlight assembly from Kawasaki ER6N and a KTM 390 Duke , so I have some good options. I've seen some cool universal speedometers, but I'd need to figure out the mounting of it.

    It goes on. Never thought I'd end up with a project bike...
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2017
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  10. HawkhoundVA

    HawkhoundVA Member

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    It’s been a long 7 months away. Had some mods waiting for me when I got back. Added a Givi tail rack a PCV and I overhauled the seat from stock to a gel insert and seat cover from Luimoto. Really changes the look. Test ride complete. what a difference with the PCV. [​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  11. James Bond

    James Bond New Member

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  12. tnvfr91

    tnvfr91 New Member

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    Saturday it was slightly over 50 degrees, so i took the 91 vfr for a short 100 mile ride
     

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  13. duccmann

    duccmann Insider

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    what a beautiful ride
     
  14. Sniper

    Sniper New Member

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    I rode my G5 130 miles on Saturday 12/16/17. It got to 51F, here in southern Indiana. I don't have any electric gear, but I have some good stuff. It was a little nippy at times, but not bad at all. I had a wonderful ride. With the leaves gone, you can see cliffs, old farm steads, and things you just can't see with the leaves on the trees. It was low humidity, and everything was so bright, and clear. These things run great in cool dry weather, don't they? I probably pushed it a little harder than I should have, but never a wiggle. I'm the first one to bitch about how heavy these things are, but there's a lot to be said how this bike holds the road.

    I have new bike fever real bad. But after Saturday, not so much.
     
  15. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Member

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    Lately I have been staring at it lovingly. That's about all I can do for a while. Time carries on sooooo slow when you can't ride.
     
  16. OZ VFR

    OZ VFR Insider

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    Rode it yesterday morning before it got too hot.
    47.3°C, that's 117°F today, a new record for Sydney.
    The roads are melting.
    By Tuesday we will have had 4 consecutive days above 38°C or 100°F.
    Bloody global warming.
     
  17. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Member

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    You can send some of that heat my way. Here in Michigan (western lower) we have had 12 days straight with a high temp of less than 20 F (-6 C). That is the longest strech with such a low high temp since 1912!
     
  18. OOTV

    OOTV Member

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    Finally got around to changning out the rear brake torque arm on the 01 to one from the later model 6 Gen. Did a bit of safety wiring on the bolts and also got around to safety wiring the oil filler cap too.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Riding a 2000

    Riding a 2000 Insider

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    Is there a difference in the brake torque arms which makes the swap worth doing? I'm curious about the rationale for doing that.
    Also, have you had a problem with things vibrating loose on your bike? For track/racing use, I can see the value in safety wire, but for normal street riding.... Millions of bikes on the road without a wired oil filler cap..... (Nice spiral winding, BTW. Gotta love those pliers.)
     
  20. OOTV

    OOTV Member

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    The issue I had was at Laguna Seca, the bolt that screws into the swing arm came loose and fell out and the torque arm was dangling and was smacking the wheel spokes, kind of like a ratchet! Click, click, click, not good. I was just about to head out on the track when I heard and felt the torque arm smack the spokes as I was moving forward. Odd thing was that I came down from the top of the track to the hot pit and took my place in the queue and no hint of it being an issue. When I started rolling again, that's when it became apparent.

    As for why I switched to the 6 Gen torque arm. Turns out the metal collar that goes behind the torque arm and where the bolt goes through, is no longer available, the bolt still is but not the collar. So I basically had to replace the torque arm and mounting hardware, unless I wanted to take the time to try and find a collar somewhere, I went with the 6 Gen replacement parts instead. I had originally had just bought the mounting hardware and planned on using the existing torque arm but turns out the 6 Gen arm is thinner, so I had to order the arm as well.

    Regarding the safety wire, yes for street only use, probably a bit over kill but since I have been spending more time on the track and after experiencing the lost bolt, I figured two birds with one stone, comply with most track organization rules and be sure that bolt doesn't come out again! Besides, it's fun using that tool!
     
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