What Keeps Feeding Electrical Gremlins?

I'll third that. Though I don't now about replacing it. It's a simple mechanism and looks to be in good condition.

 

LOok at you, Nice, now go redo your nails might I add get something halloweenish. Boo.

 

Haiku(rant)

That looks great, Nice Work!
Woulda been good to actually see a problem, fix it and be done,,..

The Right Side can be considerably more work, the Throttle Cables are there.
You may not want to get too far into it, if you are working outside, best start in the morning.
You may have to remove the Twist Throttle Grip off the Handlebar, undue both throttle cables, just to check the switches.
And then reassemble, adjust cables slack,,..
Not sure about your bike, but I have to remove the whole Clip-On Bar off the Right Fork tube to get enough slack to slide the Grip Tube off.
Much bigger production.

If I rember, your Twist Throttle Grip was sticking a little, so maybe a refurb is in order anyway.

If your Left Side Switches are in good shape (they were) then the Right Side is probably OK too, might be a lot of work for nothing.
I'd have to check your Schematic (can't find it right now) but if the Headlight runs off a Relay(s), then the Low Current Right Switch Cluster is probably fine.
Best check the High Current side first (Reseat Headlight Lamp Socket(s), reseat Headlight relay(s), reseat Headlight Fuses, reseat connectors related to Headlight Circuit).

Its all 12V but the high amperage side is more likely to cause problems.

I rewired my "old" bike to now use a Relay to power the Head-Lights, after it was corroding from High Current in the Right SW Cluster.

Intermittent Bugs are the worst, its never there when you want to find it, and you don't know if its fix'd, until it never comes back.
Being Thorough with all your work means the problem will not be there, it'll be somewhere else, eventually you fix it.

 

Switch looks good enough to me to NOT be the cause of the problem. Being intermittent problem makes this much harder so here is something to try at no cost. I am thinking the relay sticking. Since it looks like high and low beam relay the same (and assuming there is nothing wrong with low beams) I would swap them with each other and see what happens. Check the contacts when you remove the relays to make sure not corroded and/or clean if necessary to eliminate that as problem. You could check relay with multimeter, but intermittent problem, may give false reading.

I would also go to wallyworld and buy some CRC electrical contact cleaner. Only about 6 bucks a can and will last a while. You can use other cleaners like brake cleaner but if they are going to come into contact with plastics on your bike, may damage or discolor. The CRC contact cleaner is supposed to be safe for most plastics and works great on corrosion and battery acid. (still have to be somewhat careful with it though but much easier and safer). Just my .02 cents

http://i.imgur.com/zd75PLJ.png

 

Patience is obviously one of your virtues, AM. That isn't one of mine but I can do things like that. It's just so painful, LOL! I've always been somewhat amazed Honda doesn't deal with electrical issues. All manufacturers read forums. Maybe it's because we type in English......

 

Biggest problems are caused by several circuits using the same earths.

 

AM, I'm impressed with your skill level, well done

 

Drill out the head, then use a pair of vise grips to twist the threaded shaft out once it's apart.

 

Easiest way I know of would be using a screw extractor bit aka easy-out. I have the little 2 or 3 piece Craftsman kit from Sears but not the fancy titanium one like below and not very expensive or if you happen to have neighbor/friend who has one you could borrow. That is what I would try first and they are handy to have around house. If you think you could drill out like JB said, that is option too. Examples below or maybe harbor freight too.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc...sellerId=SEARS&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1


https://www.lowes.com/pl/Screw-extractors-Drill-bits-Power-tools-Tools/4294607735


http://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Ha...CTOR?NCNI-5&isSearch=true&browsestoreoption=1

 

I'm not sure there's enough meat on that screw head to use an extractor.

I tried taking that assembly apart when she was on her trip this summer and I stopped because I didn't want to round out that screw head in the field. It's seized good.

Worth a shot I suppose if you can find one cheap though.

 

I would have of course used one of my JIS screwdrivers and probably not had the issue. :wink: Had it been a little more stubborn, like in your case, I would have use the one with the built-in impact driver on it.

Of course, in your current situation, since the screw is already stripped then following Jeff's suggestion would be the quicker and cheaper way to go.


All kidding aside, I actually had a similar issue to yours with the screws of the clutch and brake reservoir caps. I had to drill a couple out to get the caps off. After having a few other "stubborn" screws here and elsewhere, I ended up buying a set of JIS screwdrivers (It came with P1, P2 & P3 sizes, a P2 stubby and flat head model screwdrivers too). I also picked up two of the Impact driver models in P2 & P3 sizes (see pic below). I have not since, had any issues with cross point (AKA Phillips) screws. I also use a little anti-seize paste on screws known to have given me trouble, which I'm sure helps too.:thumb:

Vessel IMPACTA 980 Series JIS P2x100 Impact Screwdriver - Link to Vessel Impacta JIS Screwdriver on eBay

 

I have actually busted the tips on a couple of these from the set I have. I think they are the ones from Sears. We're talking pretty stubborn screws/bolts here but none the less, broke the tip off. So out came the drill bit and out came what was left of the screw/bolt!

 

I'd try an impact driver and hammer; whoever invented that combination deserves a gold star. The trickiest thing for you will be access as you need to be hitting upwards accurately, unless you can pull the clip on off the fork and flip it over. If that doesn't work than I would drill the head off the screw, and hope that vice grips will pull the threaded portion out of the throttle housing. If it all goes pear-shaped, I'm sure the throttle assembly will be available off ebay.

 

Well Anne Marie, its time to shop! OOTV is exactly right about the fasteners on your VFR. Go on Amazon and get a set of Vessel JIS screwdrivers and also the Irwin Hanson 11119 screw/bolt extractor kit. The Irwin kit is the greatest thing in my tool box! Good luck, and Happy Hallowe'en

 

Awe exactly what OOTV and Laker say. JIS. The thing here with using an impact is the plastic involved, could be a tricky one. I'd almost try a dremel carbide bit and take it easy, there's not much room for a decent drill and bit in there, I like the JIS suggestion first. Once out replace with SS socket head or button head.