Wheel conversions for 1986-1987

The -stock- bars hit the tank.

 

check out step by step on www.hondavfr.org under FAQ section, goes into both front and back conversion. he suggested that steering stem be take out from bottom.

 

And also to grind down the steering stops on teh CBR lower triple to match those of he VFR lower triple.

 

Anyone know if the CBR clamps have the same angles as the stock VFR? I would be warrey of changeing the geometry with out knowing it was a good proven improvement. Also are the fork tubes compatible length and travel wise so as not to change ride height or cause interferance fully compressed?
Also, anyone have info on the Fox doubble clicker and its fitting mentioned in the rearend swap? I need to freshen up that boinger back there. Hard to belive the VFR has larger rear disc than most "modern" bikes. Something just seems wrong about down sizing the disc in an upgrade.

 

The CBR has a stepper steering angel than the VFR (86-87), at 27.5 degree only 80,s bikes have same angle, and the only yhat has a usd fork whit simalar angle is the FZR1000 91-93. I have the stock fork back now. For 2 reasons. 1 the brake discs of the ZX) was wraped and 2 the steering was to slow to my tast.
The ZX9 has a 24 degre angel stock, and that meed I have a long trail, even the zx9 fork is 30mm shorter and I had the legs dropped a further 25mm!
You need to rise the rear to compensate so the angle gets right. And for the rear brake discs, lets say 80s bikes had undersized front brakes and over sized rear brakes

 

The steering angle is determined by the steering head in the frame, and to some degree the length of the forks, NOT by the triple clamps, so any change to the steering geometry of the VFR by doing the swap is minimal.
I'm starting to wish I'd done and F4i front end...

 

The stearing angel is sure determined by the fame, but I disagree about the effect of the triple clamps effect on the steering. Its the offset in the triples that give the trail. Usually the offset is same in both triples, but some bikes do also have diffrent offset in the upper and lower triple.
For exampel, I have a KTM mx bike that have tipels whit a excenter stearing stream, 2mm to be exact, and it do a diffrense in the bikes steering! In my VFR case, whit the ZX9 fork, the diffrense in triple offset is around 10mm! (dont remember exact mesurment, have them home) as the VFR has a 108mm trail as stock, which it pritty mych as modern bikes have 90-100mm, it is in the 120mm range whit the zx9 fork. That combine whit wider tires...man its slow steering. Even whit the fork legs 25mm down in the triples and rear rised so it only compressed 15mm whit me on it was slow to my likening, even close to stock, but then the rear suspension didnt work properly.

 

I agree that the tripple clamps have alot to do with the trail and offset. Race and MX bikes often have "trick" tripples with massaged offsets like Kenny said. Racers will also raise and lower thier forks in the clamps at 5mm increments to change the way the bike handles as it makes enough differance in the trail and wheel base as to be noticable. My greatest hesitation with using non stock clamps is how it will handle, thanks to Kenny's input Im going to stear clear (pun intended) of changing the tripple clamps. I think the way to go is find a comparable lenght set of forks and have some clamps milled up on a CNC. For now, I'll just pick up a good used stock front end. Maybe when my tires get whooped next time Ill do the CBR wheel swap.
Small front brakes, big rear, LOL.
BTW, I put racetek gold cartridge valves in my forks, drilled out the dampening rods and the Anti dive, used progressive springs and ATF for oil and it was the best thing I EVER did to the VFR.

 

sorry to change subject, but for any of the guys who did do the F2 conversion, did they have the VFR steering stem lathed down to match that of the CBR? or is that even necessary?

 

That great to know, bad I cant get thoese parts where I live.
I will play whit oil wight to see how it works till I get that ZX9 fork thing worked out.

 

Sure you can! you they are sold by for diameter not specific application. I dont recall the dia of the VFR forks, 27mm rings a bell.

 

Looks like they are 29mm.
Race tech has them, they are $150 now, they were $100 when I got them a few (over 10!) years back.
FEGV S3501
Gold Valve Cartridge Fork Emulator 29.0/21.1/16.0mm* $149.99
HONDA
82-83 FT 500 Ascot, 83-84 VT 500FT Ascot, 87-90 CBR 600F, 86-87 VFR 700***, 86 VFR 750, 81-82 CBX 1100

I found those listed on hardracing.com

 

It's not necessary. The VFR and F2 steering stems are identical in all dimensions except for one, which necessitates moving the VFR stem over to the F2 triple: length.

 

cool thanks.

 

Thanks!
Did they come whit instructions how to mount?

 

yeah, very detailed instructions. Basicly you open up your forks, drill out the dampening rods with about 6 holes (to bypass them). Then set the emulators on top of the rods, place the springs over them, and cut your spacer the with of the valve (16mm) unless you want a higher spring rate. Replace your seals while your in there ( I used promolly leak proof low stiction) and put it together. They advise you to make a tool out of a bent coat hanger to fish the valves out of the fork when they are full of oil for easy adjustment. You adjust the valves by removing the springs, fishing them out with said tool, and turning the clickers on them. Again I used ATF oil and I belive my happy setting is in my service manual ademdium. I have to redo my forks this week since my old ons are bent and need to move the valves and progressive springs to the new tubes so I can take pictures if you like.
I also used progressive springs that were a few inches longer that required cutting the fork spacers down even more to compensate.
The valves also disable the anti dive valve but the bike handels so much better under hard braking now with the valves its not missed at all. You can still feel the notch as you start to apply the front brakes and the calliper pushes the pistion in. It is possible to weld or hard mount the calliper, maybe Ill work on that with the new fork. No big deal either way though.

 

Sure, check out my site for details! If you have any questions feel free to shoot me an e-mail at jamie@daughertymotorsports.com .

 

Thanks, I sure like some pics if possible. sounds like this will be the ticket...

 

Here is the valve. Again, you just drill out holes in the side of the rods to by pass them, and compensate for the extra height of the valve by cutting down the plastic spring spacer that sits on top of the spring. You adjust the valve by turing that nut to set spring pressure of the valve opening. The valve opens more when more pressure is applied by the oil in the suspension so the opening is dynamic with conditions instead of a static hole adjusted by oil weight.
BTW the oil in my forks was wasted! Only about 20 K on it. Note to self and others, change fork oil at least every 2 years or more if the front of your bike works hard like they need to here on Pa roads!

Any info on that fox rear shock upgrade?

 

i called FOX and they dont make it for street application...i assume there are some out here...check with jamie daugherty.