6th Gen No Start No Power Only Clock

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Aced It, Jan 4, 2020.

  1. Aced It

    Aced It New Member

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    Like the title says...

    Went to start the bike after work and at first she fired right up only to shut down a few seconds later. Turn the key, press stop/run button, press start button again and heard clicking sound from right front fuse area that then slowly faded out. Repeat start and absolutely nothing happens. The entire gauge assembly is dead except the clock. Battery voltage checks at 12.7, both 30A fuses are good, all other fuses are good. Getting 12V to starter solenoid. Digging in a bit deeper tomorrow but would like some ideas. Chime in please. Thanks all!

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  2. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Member

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    Pull the battery and take it to AutoZone. Ask them to LOAD Test the battery.
    The batt can show 12volt but fail a load test.
    It is always best to trickle charge it over night before a load test.
     
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  3. Darth Vader

    Darth Vader New Member

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    Classic dead battery symptoms. Not enought power to fire the injectors and all the other electrics. Buy a new one , fill it , trickle charge it over night , fit it and she'll start right up.
     
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  4. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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  5. Aced It

    Aced It New Member

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    Thanks for the input guys. The battery is only 4 months old. I don't think that's it (I could be wrong), however I do have the old one and it is still good. I'll swap them today and see what happens.

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  6. Aced It

    Aced It New Member

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    Nice. Good info in that link. Thanks!

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  7. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Member

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    If the batt is good, the next thing to look for is a poor/loose connection.
    Keep us informed.
     
  8. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    You could also put a jumper cable on from a car battery while the newer battery is in place; will quickly tell you if a lack of current is the issue.
     
  9. Aced It

    Aced It New Member

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    Much appreciated guys. I had absolutely zero time to even so much look at the bike this weekend. I had a very enjoyable time with my daughter instead; shop 'til you drop, haha! Life decisions ... I think I do them right. :)

    Hopefully - HOPEFULLY - I'll be looking it over later this evening.
     
  10. Aced It

    Aced It New Member

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    Put the other battery in, turned the key and again heard clicking from right front where the R/R is. Pulled fairing and started checking wires and plugs and ... Well, well, well ... Looks like I got wirin' to do. This just pulled right out. And the plug is nasty too. Go figure.[​IMG][​IMG]

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  11. Aced It

    Aced It New Member

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    Got to the fixin' this evening. Cut out the burnt plug and cut back the wires. Crimped on some heavy duty connectors using di-electric grease in both the crimp and connecting sides. That and checked the dreaded 3 yellow wires and connector which looked fine, but I will keep an eye on them and probably do the same. I've done this with multiple bikes throughout the years, especially the older ones. Pulled the battery from yesterday and put back in the newer one. She fired right up. All is joyous again!

    20200107_161723.jpg 20200107_161745.jpg
     
  12. RllwJoe

    RllwJoe Member

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    Good news!! Glad that you found the problem.
     
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  13. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    Yeah... lookie what I found on my Gen5 yesterday......

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    Not wishing to rain on your parade - but you probably need to keep a close eye on your charging system as those charred connectors indicate serious current flows - possibly your RR or stator is in trouble.

    This 20 page thread has numerous similar tales --- https://vfrworld.com/threads/how-to-fix-common-regulator-stator-failures.39277/

    If nothing else invest in one of those cheapo led volt meters which show volts as a number (not a line of coloured lights) . They can be picked up for buttons on tBay and won't be super accurate but if you wire it into an ignition on circuit, you will soon get a feel for what numbers are normal. Then if you see the volts rocket or fall through the floor you will have time to head for some place safe before the energy left in the battery is drained and your vfr ends up stranded at the roadside.
     
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  15. Aced It

    Aced It New Member

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    All good advice and noted. While this is the highest milage bike I've owned, it's not the oldest. Among just a few, my VLX is a 91 and since customizing it 6 years ago I've had zero charging system issues. She had a narly looking stator plug that I replaced such as here. She was a pile of crap when I picked her up from burned holes in two exhaust valves to being thoroughly abused physically. I am still in the original r/r and stator, just fixing the wires. At 40K miles, still short of the VFR though. An 82 CB900 I built to a cafe was at about 36K with no issues. But my current build, an 80 CB750F with only 17K miles has a burnt and deteriorated stator plug worse than shown here. Believe me, considering the variances I've seen with these systems, I'll be keeping a close eye on the Viffer.

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  16. raYzerman

    raYzerman Insider

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    I believe in voltmeters on any bike I've had, either switched on with ignition or wired direct (with a switch) so I can see battery voltage without turning on the ignition.
    I would recommend an upgrade to a mofset RR and perhaps that fried wire connector won't happen again, or fry the stator. My stator is testing OK but I am going to replace the RR with a mofset. FYI, FJR1300's have Shindengen FH020AA's if you're looking for a used one and they never had an issue with them that I know of.
     
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  17. Aced It

    Aced It New Member

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    Battery checked with key off = 12.7V
    Battery checked at idle = 14.10V
    Battery checked at 5000rpm= 14.10V

    Battery receiving charge. R/R regulating and rectifying properly. Looks good!

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  18. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    Sorry Skimad but I disagree that the charring is due to serious current flows and indicative of other components in trouble. Actually IMO the reverse is true, there has been corrosion in the connectors leading to increased resistance leading to the generation of serious heat with normal current flow. My pet theory (and it is only that) is that these connectors are a root cause of the failure in those other components, when they get hot enough to melt and let the connectors touch.
     
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  19. Aced It

    Aced It New Member

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    Terry, while there are a few acceptable answers to this, in this particular case I am siding with your observation. The wire that snapped was in fact corroded where it was crimped to the connector. My assumption is that the current was arcing where it was attached to the plug, thus the burning. I've seen this on many Honda's I've worked on, especially with the 3-yellow wire plug from the stator. In any case, all of my 'checks's have come back positive (pun intended), so I'll just continue to keep an eye on everything.
     
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